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I've been contemplating using a pre-smog body mated entirely to the suspension and running gear of a very modern car. I've drawn out plans, taken photos of my own Supras and 240Z while on stands, measured, compared, etc. This is still on the drawing board. The goal, of course, is to find the easiest/cheapest connection point between old and new, with a limited budget - maybe $8K. This budget is only for a drivable car that is complete using substantially used equipment. Blueprinting an engine, updating turbo system and control, dyno tuning, suspension upgrades, and all such expenses would wait until the proof-of-concept is reliably on the road for a while. Here's the plan, in general: Shell of one body, subframes of another, maybe floor & firewall of the subframe donor, steering & dash may be from subframe donor, front and rear fascia & body electrical of either a good cosmetic choice, or the same as the subframe donor, engine may match subframe donor (meaning only two designs are involved) or could be entirely unrelated. Exact combination depends on many factors. To all NaySayers: Here's someone who did it. He chose a Volvo P1800 body, a Lexus SC400 as complete donor, and required some tube framing. He took two years in his garage to get it road-worthy, starting without blueprints but just cutting the cars up and doing it. Kudos for pulling it off: http://www.pro-touring.com/general/member-pro-touring-projects/got-volvo-73794.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/548803-volvo-body-swap-build.html Datsun examples worth considering: S30 shell, subframes and additional equipment (maybe entire floor like the Volvo) come from a 350Z/G35/370Z; engine coudl be a VQ35DE, VH45DE, or SR20-DET as best examples. To maintain 350Z geometry (which wins autocross) one must either extend the nose (tube frame) giving even more room for the engine without crossmember conflict and better weight distribution, or move the rear wheel wells back relative to the body, placed much as they are on a 350Z (low overhang). 260Z/280Z 2/2 (2+2) - unpopular body, but the wheelbase happens to approximate several modern options. The 350Z theme could be used, but here's another good combination: due to Japanese tax incentives, the Lexus IS300 is narrowed, and therefore a very close match to use as subframe and floor donor (and additional equipment, depending on fitment), with either the stock 2JZ-GE VVTi from the IS300 (reuse all the wiring, gauges, and everything stock), 1UZ-FE V8 (perhaps using SC400 as donor instead for simplicity, though wider body), GR series V6, 2UR-GSE (IS-F engine, not in my price range but certainly worth a mention), and other engine options. Datsun 1200 (B110) shell, Mazda Miata subframes (supposedly easy to work with, made for more weight than this finished project, good match of geometry, dead engine Miatas with suspension upgrades can be bought cheap), SR20DET, CA18DET, VQ35DE, or even the Frontier RWD QR25DE since stock power would be more than ample for a 2000lb car. For that matter, an "old school" engine might be used. Engine/transmission could be from any other donor; any small high-tech 4-banger that has a modern intercooled turbo kit available. Obviously any of these could also take the GM LS1/T56 or newer with suspension mods, but I've focused entirely on Japanese (though still mix brands). So the topic is... Could I do similar to the Volvo/Lexus project using a pre-smog Datsun and whatever donor seems the best match? I concurrently am asking a question about fabrication cost on another thread, asking if outsourcing the fabrication to Mexico or further south could get the metal-work done cheaply but well. -
Hi everyone, I'm changing out the heater control valve in my car and possibly the heater core while I'm at it. I want to replace the hoses since there's a good chance that the current ones will crack or break when I remove them. I've been trying to source new ones and I can't seem to find the whole set anywhere. I was going to buy 2 of the 3 at Black Dragon but after checking their diagram and my car's setup, they seem to be different so I'm hesitant on buying from them. Not to mention a lot of them are fairly pricy... I'm not really looking to pay $70 for a few little hoses. Do I need the shaped hose? Or could I use some unshaped hose instead? And if I need the shaped hose, can someone point me to a place that sells them for a reasonable price? EDIT: For clarification, the hoses pictured here are the 3 I'm looking for: Thanks. - Brandon
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I have done my research on this topic and i hate to start another thread but i am having a hard time finding a definitive answer to my question, specifically for my 78. Here it goes: I know that the r200 clsd out of the 87-89 turbo z31 models will swap into an s30 with the z31 billet adapters, it seems like it is a tight fit I would like to avoid axel wrap issues. I have read and heard several different scenarios to get them to properly fit. The first scenario that ive heard is that if you flip the cages with the z31 billet adapters the r200 will fit in. For the second scenario I have also heard that in some cases if you flip the cages and use two passenger axels (which are the longer axels) then the axel mates up perfectly. The third scenario is the simplest and i hope it works for me. I have read on a few different threads scattered through out the intra-web that since my 78 s30 already has a r200 differential that i wont have to flip cages or swap axels to get it to fit. It seems like every thread is different; some are saying that it works best if you only flip one cage and not the other, some say flip both, and others say swap out the drivers axel and don't/do flip both cages. Any advice would greatly be appreciated obviously i would like to get it right the first time with as little head ache as possible, any advice would be greatly appreciated especially if you have done this swap on a 78 s30 with the pre existing r200. I am planning on running an l28et with a fs5r30a so having the cv axles is crucial. Thanks y'all.
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I don't really know how to start my thread but I will give it my best shot. After reading from many JDM photo journalism websites I decided I wanted a project I could call my own from the ground up. When I saw the Common Snapper 240z I immediately fell in love with the classic lines of the car and decided to get my own. I purchased my non-running, rust free, accident free 240z October 22, 2010 for $2000. For Alaskan standards it was a deal. It wasn't pretty, didn't run and takes up space so the wife KNOWS its a money pit. Especially after I told her the motor was going to be coming from Japan. Excited to start I pulled the motor and fenders and stopped there. A year later I purchased what looks to be a good running rb25det neo motor and transmission. A year later I decided to start working on it again and pulled the front suspension and steering. Which brings me to the now. I'm researched out, tired of staring at it and really really need some inspiration and motivation and hope to find it here. I want it done but done right. I've come to the realization that because of my geographic location this shit isn't going to be cheap. With the lack of imports in Alaskan junkyards shipping will be my worst enemy even if the part is cheap and used. I'm open to any reasonable suggestions and ideas. Thanks for your time and kind words Jennings.
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So I'm looking to lower my stock 240z, aggressive enough to have a noticable difference from a stock z but still practical enough for the street. The guys at Ground Control sell a weld on coilover kit that most people are happy about but now im debating what type of struts and shocks to buy to replace the stock ones. I plan on having maybe a 200ish lb spring rate upfront and 225-250 spring rate in the back all depending on what struts and shocks i get.I know alot of people are getting tokicos, or even using aw11 struts and i was even suggestsed some Monroes or Gabriels. Opinions?? Suggestions??
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Hi everyone, Recently my uncle has helped me to tackle the issue of my heater not working. Upon taking out the glovebox and center console to get an idea of what's happening (or rather what isn't), we noticed a couple things. - The cable that is actuated by the temperature control seems to be rusty and isn't moving. It's also bent. The one I'm referring to is the one that's behind the passenger side dash, not the one that's connected directly to the switch on the control panel. - The hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core should be replaced. I was hoping to replace the heater core while we were at it because i'm almost positive it's original, but the hoses would need to be replaced at the same time. - The heater control valve seems to be pretty worn out and may not be functioning. I'm not entirely sure what this part is actually called or what its specific functions are, but there is some sort of spring mechanism attached to it. My uncle is fairly certain it's some kind of thermostat. It's the part that is shown in this picture: And of course, finding these parts has been nearly impossible. I found hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core on ebay, but they're over $20 each. I've only found the heater valve in one place and it's priced at $200 there. As for the temperature linkage, I haven't been able to find anything. I'm not sure if this is because I don't know the proper names or perhaps these parts are just impossible to find. Can anyone help point me in the direction of where to buy these parts? Thanks - Brandon
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So, spoiler alert! This story is about a Z car that I've owned since the early 90's. It has spent most of its life in storage. Worse, it is a long distance love affair as it is at my mom's place in Seattle while I'm in Sydney. Being a time capsule and a long distance affair, my warning is that this story will have a horrible cliff-hanger until I can get back to Seattle again (It is verbatim posted build thread in the Skylines Australia forum where I usually hang out). Also, the early part of the story is light on pictures since it started so long ago. [This is the only picture I could find of the car in its early history. But was after the conversion had already begun] So, how did I get the car? This is a long story. Living in Seattle with my brother, there was one of the worse wind storms to hit Seattle on 20th Jan 1993. Winds topped 94 MPH. One casualty of the day was my Brothers '70 240Z. It was struck by a tree that fell center on down the car in my sister's front yard. The car was totaled. Worse insurance called it an act of god and wouldn't pay. So I went looking for a replacement Z with my Brother. We found this '72 240Z that was an ex-SCCA race car. The owner had brought it up from California but it had sat in his garage for >10 years. It was actually only used as a road car for the first few years of its life before conversion for racing. Back then race prep was crude and done by individuals rather than shops. So all the wiring was stripped as was most of the interior. Spec: 240Z run as a 260Z for larger engine displacement. 100 lbs were added to the car to run in that trim. 260Z motor with extractors, 7lb alum/steel insert flywheel, & Iski Race cam, retained original 4 speed 2.5" straight pipe exhaust with a single resonator at the back Bilstein Racing Strut inserts (these things have monster 30+mm shafts) 5pt adjustable custom anti-roll bars front and rear numerous other mods The howl that this car gave off that could be heard from 2 blocks away gave it the family nick name "the Green Hornet". As it turns out that is the name that Greg Scott from Scott Performance gave his own very similar Z (Scott Performance did a lot of the work on this car originally in California). Anyways the car had sat and wasn't road legal. So my brother and I worked on it for about a month and got it going. Luckily there was a loop-hole that California cars had stricter emissions standards so we got to license it without an inspection. WIN! However, a year later it needed to get inspected so we were back to square one. Since my brother just wanted a street car, we found a '73 240Z for him and I traded him for this Z. After the '73 went through emissions we swapped the race motor into that car since he no longer liked the response from a stock Z. I had other plans anyways. My goal? Well I was still on a meager wage back then but I wanted a club racer. So my goal was to build a 240Z that could beat a Porsche 911. You see in the 90's the track was full of Microsoft(ies) that cashed stock and all bought 911's to bring out to club race days. They were slow as anything in the corners (afraid that the Porsche tail kick would bit them) but would blast down the straights cause they had the power. I figured a 240Z with a 300ZX Turbo transplant would solve that right quick. I bought a totalled '84 300zx turbo 5sp manual and started the engine swap. Little did I know that my career would take off a year later along with marriage and instant family since my wife had a son from a previous marriage. Thus this project would get put aside for much, much longer than I expected (and different continents). So in the next installment I'll bring you up to speed on where the transplant got to before going into storage for nearly 20 years!
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So I'm now in the bodywork phase of my project trying to smooth out the dents and dings, I'm going with a flat green after I primer it. I'm kinda doing everything backwards mechanically. I've decided to refinish all the suspension and underbody hardware after I get some paint on her. Its been a hell of a road with this car, house buying put me way behind on this whole deal. I love this car! Oh and the pic, I got a notion to just up and do it last night at like 1am. I brought out the flash gun and my camera. Anyway back to the bondo party outside.
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I know this has been discussed millions of times in the past. I did a search of the entire forums and it looks like there hasn't been a recent post in the last 12 months about clutches for those of us with higher horsepower turbo L28s. While old topics are OK on some subjects, I think clutches are one of those always evolving parts. Sometimes X clutch from 5 years ago was junk and it's a reputable product today (and vice versa). I'm currently looking for one to handle what I hope my Z can put out, which is around 350ft/lbs (so the clutch should hold around 400). I'm using a stock lightened flywheel. I'd also like the clutch to not drain my bank account because we all know there's some clutches that are $2,000 that are just as good as a $300 one (You supra guys know this all too well!) Requirements. about 400ft/lbs of grip Be able to be driven on the street Be able to be driven on the occasional track event or autocross/drag pass. Be reliable I was planning on getting one from South Bend Clutch, but they apparantly do not like to respond to e-mails and calling results in speaking to a human, only to be sent to voicemail. Are there any good deals out there right now? What are the best options these days? -
Hey guys my name is Joe Apostol. I'm pretty new to the Datsun scene. I live in Lansing, Michigan and in November of 2012 I purchased my first Datsun. I bought a 260z that came from North Carolina and looked like it had sat in the woods for a few years. I picked it up for $2300 with 80k miles, an l28 and 5 speed swap, rear disc brake conversion and it also came with a new exhaust and all new suspension/bushing throughout. I drove it for the first day I owned it and then put it in the garage and started working on it. Updates will be every couple weeks as I work a lot and am a full time student. So here are the pictures. I look forward to your comments and any advice you may have. Thanks The day it arrived at my house. I bought it and had it shipped to me Gutted it later that week Took out the center console and tried to fix some of the cracks so it wouldn't fall apart. I plan on buying a new one eventually Started installing carpet ripped off the exhaust cut a piece of the floor out and welded in a new patch bought a non webbed non egr manifold. Going to port it for the 60mm tb I bought Cut a hole in the turbo manifold so I can weld in my wg Installed the new cylinger head, been resurfaced, 5 angle valve job, also installed a cometic mls headgaske and arp head studs The worst of the rust, I cut most of it away since the picture and i'm going to fiberglass over it Brand new Greddy td06h 20g 76. trim Wastegate and dump tube. still have to weld it to the manifold I think that's about it for now.
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Hi everyone, I've had an issue with my Z for a while which hasn't really been a big deal but I figured I should probably figure out what it is in case it does turn into an issue that could be prevented. Every so often when I start my car, it idles rough (usually between 500-700rpm), shudders, and bogs down. It loses quite a bit of power until I drive it for a bit. After that, it's fine. It's happened with the engine hot and cold. Part of me wants to say that it seems to be the symptoms of the cold start injector firing when it doesn't need to, but I'm not sure. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pac Man
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So I finally got my hands on an early 74 260z. I've had several z31's and an s130 so I'm not new to the z game... I just have some things I need advice on. I received a solid rolling chassis, boxes of parts and one l28 na (n42 block and n47 head) that has an l26 intake and what looks to be earlier SU carbs. I also received an l28t (f54 block and p90 head) that's missing the turbo but not down pipe... I was told both were good engines turbo coming out of a wrecked car with right at 100k, and na being an l26 (incorrect) that was a fresher bottom end. So let me drop in a few pics to keep some attention... Original color, Ok now for the questions, I'd like to build the na block with higher compression. I'm coming across conflicting info... Can I pick up some flat top pistons and that up the compression to around 10 to 1? Along with a lumpy cam (not so much to sacrifice power or push it to far up in the rpms). Also some port work on the heads with some valve seats/seals. And of course a full gasket kit, timing chain and bearings if needed. I've read the block is fine to build and the head is an ok flow'er plus I'm not looking for anything wild. I'll figure out what I will do with the l28t later. I'm aware of the potential just have an 88 na2t z31... The usual places for parts are turning up null. Recap, Pistons where? ITM can be had on eBay, good/bad? Compression numbers with nothing but flat tops... Cam suggestions, supporting mods? N47 tricks? Parts sources... My z31
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I started doing a swap into my 240z about 4 months ago im slowly moving forward. i got the engine with custom engine mounts and the transmission in with custom mounts. i got my engine from my 92 eagle talon tsi fully built. just got tired of not being able to drive it on the street because of the setup/braking transmissions. so me and my father in law were planning on building a z either way and putting a sr20det into it. but his plans changed and wasn't able to do it. so he gave me the 240z. so with my parts i had at home and the race 4g63 i really wanted to do this swap so i looked into what i need to make a rwd setup for a 4g63. so first step i bought a custom bellhousing to mate a r154 to 4g63. second step i made the engine mounts and transmission mounts. the engine sits in there like it was made for a z. lol then i started working on the intake manifold which i just made a flange and welded it to the other side of the manifold. next step was making sure my gt35r will fit rotated and it actually fit really nice so now im even more excited on getting this project done!!! pictures coming soon
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I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
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My TPS was somehow destroyed, and I'm looking to pick up one used. Not too concerned about the condition, as long as it works. I'm offering around $30 (It's three prongs and wires with a cam, I don't know why the parts stores want $70 for one.) I live in an isolated area in northern Arkansas, so I'll have to ship it. I drive a 1978 280z, 2+2 version. Naturally aspirated, IIRC turbo versions have a different TPS setting. I would be paying through PayPal.
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Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man
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So i recently purchased a 4/1987 z31 turbo 300zx donor for my s30 l28et project. Originally I planned to fix her up and make her my daily for a while, unfortunately the HOA has issues with my roomates and i having several cars parked outside. Therefore I have to pull the parts i need for my s30 so i can get it off the street. I know for a fact that i can use the transmission, differential, rear brakes, and ecu. I think i might have read once that i could use the axels and half shafts as well. Is there any other parts that you guys would recommend that i should pull off of the donor car while it is still available? Any advice or suggestions that could be offered would be greatly appreciated. I have done my research and to my knowledge this is all that i would need off of the z31. i would hate to sell it and wish i had pulled something more. I know these builds are quit common so any other helpful hints or advice would be awesome. Any other forum suggestions would be helpful too i tried searching this topic and nothing came up so sorry to start a new thread if one already exist. cheers -
Hey guys, As the title says, I'm looking to buy a first gen S30 Roller. Been HIGHLY interested in getting one over the past few weeks and I plan on it. Preferable minimal to no rust, most/all parts in tact with roller. If you have one with rust and has a few missing parts let me know. I don't discriminate and I sure can put a use to my welders and nibblers.
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Hey guys so I kinda turned my poorly placed hello into a Build thread. Now I am moving it over here and it's barely been a full month that I have had the car and I am on a super college budget until I get a job. So it isn't going to be one of those I just dumped 12 grand and the car at a shop builds. But I do promise to keep the post coming for you guys (and If we are so blessed girls). My plans for this is to make something super low in the Shakotan style, but that will be able to drift. I am hoping to have it done with in the next two years so I can hit my 50 state road trip in it. (idk how I am getting to Hawaii) I also have aspirations for a VQ35 Swap and just so happen to have a crashed G35 to donate parts from. Here is a copy from my original post so you guys don't have to go double back for pics. VQ Loaner Before that it was pretty nice though Also i have swapped to the H4 bulbs I have also removed the ugly Bosch lights and the rear window louvers The electric fan kit Radiator over flow and new cap are all in and I am in the middle of a tear down and gasket swap also lets me check the health of my pistons and cylinders. Hopefully all is well and I can put her all back together in the next few weeks. Until then I am scrubbing and Scrubing Well I hope you guys enjoy and I will keep posting as I go.
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After kicking around many ideas I decided to go with an external surge tank and external pumps to feed the fuel rail of my rb25det in my 240z. I tried an intank fuel pump previously. The intank pump is the way to go for sure as long as you have adequate baffling and good general design. My problem stemmed from a poor design and using a rusty tank a buddy gave me. I started a thread on that. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94261-bonks-efi-fuel-tank/ I will update that thread with some lessons learned soon. Luckily I still had the original tank I pulled out of the car at the start of my project. It had a little rust, the local radiator shop was able to clean it out using acid and hot tanked it ($89). The key to my project is that there are no modifications to the stock tank. I chose to use the bcbroncos product, Accumulator Tank, ( http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuelefi.html ) scroll to the bottom the page. The tank is a converted remote oil filter. The guys at bcbroncos use this tank for their EFI conversions (if the customer does not want to spring for the intank solution). Fuel goes in the top, pass through the filter, there is a pickup tube that extends to the bottom of the filter where the fuel is picked up by the HP pump. bcbroncos added a third fitting (5/16ths) to the top of the modified oil filter to manage the return system (see tee fitting in website image). You plumb the return from the engine to one side of the tee and the return to the tank to the other side. I am feeding the surge tank with a low pressure Airtex 8016S pump. On the engine side of the surge tank is a high pressure Walbro GSL392 pump. The obvious problems with this kind of are the following: 1) Mounting everything (there aint much room) while staying away from the exhaust and the suspension and anything else that moves (rips). 2) Return Pressure Part A - there must be free flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the tank. If the system lacks enough return capacity (adequate fuel line inside diameter), pressure can build up in the surge tank. In this case that is not an option because the tank is nothing more than a thread on filter. People have reported problems with their bcbroncos accumulator tanks leaking. I suspect that is because they did not have adequate return capacity to the tank and pressure built up inside the surge tank. 3) Return Pressure Part B* - if there is not free flow after the FPR then the HP pump has to work under load and will get HOT! = BAD for pump and WIRE! If the HP pump is working hard and getting hot then the WIRE feeding it juice is getting HOT. 4) Noise of external pumps (live with it) * - source Tony D. 1) After looking around the back of the car for a while I found a cluster of three threaded holes. I made a plate (1/8-inch) and threaded M6 hardware into the holes. I use the plate as a base to weld an extension out of some small box tubing. This was needed to move everything away from the Mustache Bar. I welded another plate to the box tubing, drilled to accept the surge tank and pump mounting plate (16-gage sheet metal). 2) After exchanging emails with Tony D, I was convinced that I needed to increase my return capacity to the tank. I already replaced the little pinner 3/16ths return line with 5/16ths when the drivetrain was out. But the stock tank has that 3/16ths return above the 5/16ths pickup. I decided to swap my usage of the 3/16ths return line with the smaller top of tank vent line (@ 5/16ths or a little bigger. At this point you simply need to make a 3 to 5/16ths adapter to plump the stock return to the vent tank. 3) After doing some research on the amp draw of the pumps and exchanging emails with Yury at Wiringspecialties.com we decided that I would be OK running both pumps over the stock 10-guage wire that runs from the back of the car near the tank (Nissan ran it back there to allow for an optional electric fuel pump on the carburated cars) to the front (Green wire). I am monitoring the wire (grabbing it to see if it gets hot) as I've running the cat over the last few weeks and have felt to heat at all. The Walbro has never gotten hot at all. The LP pump gets warmish, but not hot. 4) The Airtex pump makes a lot of noise (grumble) at idle. Can't hear it when you are underway. It doesn't bother me. Priming the system, I disconnected the power and ground to the Walbro and cycled the car in the ON position running the LP pump. I waited until I heard gas falling from the vent fitting back into the tank. I connected the HP pump back up and went for it. Damn thing started right up. Crazy. The Bad/weird part. When I shut the car off the LP pump continues to run for a second or two. I have a an inline fuel pressure gage in the engine bay. After I turn the car off it reads @ 25 psi pre-rail. After 20 minutes or so the pressure bleeds off. I am concerned this may not be good for the FPR. BUT the remnant pressure is great for one thing, starting the car back up. When I had my intank setup. I had to prime the system in the ON position everytime I started the car. Now, no need, the fires right up on the the first crank everytime. Thanks for reading. Bonk
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Let's see if I can move my Hello's as I have found the right section I just recently purchased (two weeks almost) my Sept of 70, 1971 titled 240 Datsun Z. I was going to sell my 06 G35, but had a mix up with a call box pole on the way to wash it before selling it that afternoon last week. Yeah fml right. Before that it was pretty nice though Anyway it came with a ton of goodies and is numbers matching as far as I can tell. Not much rust under the battery box but the floor pans are pretty bad. I have a full gasket kit for the motor and one for the rear diff going on tomorrow as well as the Zparts fan setup and the radiator overflow with a new cap. I already had to put a new water pump on her and have taken the window louvers off as well as the rear bumper idky I do n't like them, but I don't Enough of all that on to the pictures of goodies and such http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/68649_439320729450285_1083960965_n.jpg[img/] I hope these show as there from my fb if not I'll upload them to photobucket and try again I am at a cross roads because I do love these cars and this would be great for an original restoration, but A) its and Autotragic and I want to go fully custom retro new with it. Also I am in Orlando for anyone local to me guys as everyone is local to themselves. ahahah Ps I'll also be on Zcar as well since both of these sites are pretty well versed with knowledge. And of course G35driver. Same name
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Hi all, I have a '76 280z that's essentially bone stock. When I started driving yesterday, I had a couple drips of water fall on me. Condensation on my windows is nothing new to me, but when I looked up, I noticed that there were a bunch of water droplets hanging on my headliner! They were almost all right above the driver seat. I'm getting the feeling that this isn't normal, and probably isn't very healthy for the headliner. I'm pretty sure I have a leak in the firewall that goes to the driver side floor, but I don't think that would cause it? Do I just have to replace all of the weatherstip gaskets around the car? Thanks, - Pac_Man
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Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum (probably fairly obvious), but I do have an eBay account and am a member of a couple car groups on Facebook from my area. My eBay feedback is 100% positive and I've made purchases ranging from $10 to $750. I will gladly provide references upon request and do whatever I can to make the transaction more comfortable for you. I have a '76 280z, and I'm looking to get some parts to upgrade it asthetically. Here's what I'm looking for: - Air dam (280 style/no turn signal holes) - 240/early 260 bumpers - Adapter brackets for 240 bumpers on a 280 And they're not high on my priority list but if you have hatch window louvers or a rear spoiler I might be interested in those if they price is right. I'm also hoping to upgrade my exhaust system with headers and a new exhaust system, so the same thing applies for that. You can PM me here and/or email me at hpotency@hotmail.com. - Brandon
