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  1. I have a wrecked 2003 G35 that ran and drove fine with an auto trans. I'd like to put the engine and trans in my 1982 280zx. I have the engine figured out but I'm having trouble finding info on how to make the RE5R05A electronics work or even if I can make the stock G35 parts work. BEFORE YOU TELL ME TO Cd009 swap it, I want an auto because my knees have issues, I can't clutch like I used to. I still have the doner G35 for now. Thank you for any help!!!
  2. Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
  3. Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.
  4. I have got myself a 240z with a 350 stroked to 383 swapped in it and I am beginning to realize I might be in over my head. It's got a 4l60e and a stock rear end. How do I go about finding a rear end upgrade that will fit my swap and hold 450 hp?
  5. Hello fellow Z drivers! I have a 1981 280zx n/a and recently purchased a turbo parts car for it (1982). My plan is to begin the swap soon but I wanted to make sure all my ducks are in a line here, as it seems like everywhere I look I get different answers, SO: To do this properly I am under the assumption I need: •the turbo motor •turbo harness and ECU •the power rack and pinion (for clearance) •the turbo subframe (whole sub frame or just the cross member?) •the turbo fuel pump (I was told they're higher output and that this is mandatory, again would love input here) •the steering column and/or the proper spacer (apparently the R/P will bind up the u-joint if I don't swap the column?) •the front struts (assuming that the entire subframe must be swapped, AND assuming that they are in fact entirely different struts, which Ive yet to confirm) Am I missing anything? Are my facts horribly wrong? I'd like this swap to go as smooth as possible so any and all info in this matter will be helpful!
  6. Hello, Been looking for years and I finally came into possession of a motor-less 260z that i want to swap a non-turbo 2jz into. I've swapped an engine before but it was the same type of motor (blown 3s-gte swapped for one I built-up in my 91 mr2). So I'm trying to compile a to-do/to-find list for what I need for the swap, so far this is what I have and want to use: Have: -A buddy sold me a rear-sump sc300 2jzge and I was able to get a AR5 transmission for cheap as well Planned: -ApexEngineered front crossmember and JZ mounts -1jz bellhousing (for the ar5) -SN95 Mustang gas tank + fuel pump -JDM 2jz ecu for now (haltech or megasquirt later) -Better wiring harness later in life -JZ clutch fan -3 core radiator Unknown: -Will the 260z master cylinder need to be used? Or would I need another manufacture? -Do I need to run new fuel lines from the tank? I know I'm missing some things and was hoping that someone with more experience can shed some light as to what else I need.
  7. If there end up being aftermarket gear sets let me know (and maybe I can save myself some effort) This build is still in the planning stages. So I am asking now before I pull two transmissions apart. Are there any differences in shaft diameter between the gear boxes, (or other differences for that matter) which would prevent me from swapping the 1st through 3rd from a F4W71B 4-speed to a later model 5-speed? (In short, are the gears compatible?) If there is already a post on this I apologize. I could not find anything searching, and the search function kept breaking itself.
  8. I know there are lots of these threads, but most are pretty old. Maybe someone might be interested. I have a 78 280Z, I found a 82 ZXT on craigslist and bought it. My goal here is to make a drivable stock looking 280Z with some a$$ I have no illusions of out running a modern Camaro or Mustang, but I'd like to make them earn it. so here we go As bought almost two years ago.
  9. Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler ,
  10. I recently acquired a late model FS5W71B 5-speed that supposedly came out of a 280ZX. It definitely has the right bellhousing bolt pattern, the single ear exhaust hanger, the reverse check plate, and the tall ears for the shifter. I've put it in 5th and counted input shaft to output shaft ratios, and confirmed it's the .745:1 5th gear. Based on the research I've done on this site and others it sounds like it should bolt in just fine, but I need to make sure I use the pressure plate and throw-out bearing out of either one or the other and not "mix and match". I have a completely new clutch/PP/TOB (Exedy) that I had bought for my 4 speed, and am guessing that it should be OK in the 5 speed? Can anyone confirm this? Also, the breather has broken off flush with the case. Any advice on removing the stub? The 5-speed came with a slave cylinder, should I use that one or my 4-speed's, or is there no difference? Looking at this web link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I do have the weird oblong shifter (bottom picture, right side) from the 5 speed. Does anyone have any idea what that internal spring is supposed to do in relation to the bushings? Is it one of those push-down to engage reverse features? Finally, this transmission only has one electronic sensor installed, up near the front (Reverse switch I believe), and nothing else. There looks like maybe something should be in the rear, and possibly got broken off. I need to do more cleanup in that area to be sure. I downloaded a copy of the '83 FSM from Xenon and the MT chapter shows 4 sensors! (Reverse switch, Top Gear Switch, O.D. Gear Switch, and Neutral switch.) In all the pictures of these transmissions I have found on line I have never seen 4 switches installed on the side of these transmissions. Does anyone know what the deal is on what reality appears to be VS what the FSM is calling out? In my picture the 5-speed is on the left, the 4-speed is on the right, The shifter with all the tape around it is the oblong one out of the 5-speed. The boss that is up from the tailshaft on the right of the center casting part line (red arrow pointing to it) is full of crud and I suspect where the neutral switch should be installed. Is there ANYTHING that anyone can advise me on in regards to making this swap successful? Pitfalls? "Gotchyas"? "As long as you are doing this you may want to..."? Thanks!
  11. Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale down in San Diego. I made the 4 hour round trip the next day and bought the Jig with the sole purpose of making the cross members for the community. I am one guy with a Jig and the resources to REPRODUCE these cross members Just as John designed! These will be MADE TO ORDER and will be low production numbers to insure a QUALITY product. So Just as I came across John you have now come across me. They will come as raw metal for ease of welding with the original instructions. YES these can be bolted in by drilling holes through the rails and cross member. Price $350 a unit plus shipping to your door step. Happy building! These are made for OEM 2jzgte engine mounts. People have used These for 1jzgte,vvti,GE swaps but may of had to swap out mounts. The 4bolt pattern is the same however the mount brackets vary. Message me for orders. Instagram----- Mike321go Facebook----- Mike Garcia
  12. Hey guys. So Ive previously done a L28et swap previously back in the day and car ran fine. Just did another 81 L28et swap into my series one 240z and got it all bolted up and cranking. Now, on the donor car the car started up and ran up and down the block before I took it apart( 2 years ago) so things seemed all functional at least back in the day. Issue I'm running into is the car won't come on. And when it does start briefly, it dies within 3 seconds. I Bought a new fpr and verified that there is fuel and pressure (36psi) while car is off and in the ON position. There is verified spark in all 6 sparkplug wires. I've got two separate grounds on the engine so engine and car is well grounded. I also took the fuel rail off and verified that while cranking the Injectors are indeed spraying and there isn't infection leaks. Below is a YouTube video link I uploaded for your viewing pleasure haha. The ECU light seems to come on then shut off after cranking and sometimes intermittently the Injectors will stay on buzzing even if I stopped cranking. Anyway, any idea what's going on? https://youtu.be/p-DhNG0mq7E Your help is Much appreciated!
  13. I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
  14. The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.
  15. When i realized my 240z project was too rusty under all the bondo to bother i was bummed out. When my 300zx motor started to sound like a washing machine full of rocks i was ready to give up on life. When my boss told me i needed to get my junk cars out of the shop, I completely lost my mind and offered him $2000 for "everything i need to make it move" out of the various salt water flooded mustangs in the shop. We restored flooded cars and shipped them over seas btw. Note the giant pile of wires!
  16. Hello all, I'm pondering doing a gearbox upgrade as I have everything out of the car for my restomod and my 5-speed gearbox is "missing" 5th gear. The car is a 73 240z Europe edition and I believe I have the FS5C71B gearbox mounted in the car. Searching around I found recommendations of the FS5W71C swap from the 180SX, 200SX, and 240SX. I can find plenty of rather low mileage FS5W71C gearboxes for sale so that is not a problem. I read the following guide http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm and it is highlighted that you need the FS5W71B bell housing. Question is -> Has anyone had any experience using the FS5C71B bell housing for this swap rather than the FS5W71B? Cheers, Erik
  17. Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
  18. Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  19. I've had this idea since I was a little kid to put a 6.7 liter Cummins in a 240 and or 260 I just want to know if anybody thinks it can be done I wanna try to keep it fairly stock looking so no 2 feet front end extension's besides being heavy in the front end really heavy could it be done?
  20. Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.
  21. Hey all, I’m a Datsun newbie! Always wanted a 240z/510 project and finally made it happen over the weekend. I picked up the 73 Datsun 250 miles away from home with the “guaranteed to make the drive” from the owner – which it did not but we’ll get to that later. 1973 Datsun with a SBF 306 engine with GT40p heads, single plane intake, 750 Holley HP carb, speedway headers, 3” exhaust, manual valve-body c-4 transmission with SFI bell housing and 9” stall converter, TCI shifter, R200 posi rear end, Meziere water pump. I realize the 750 carb is probably too big, I think its what the PO had around and tuned it work. Motor seems to run strong, starts up pretty easily from a cold start and sounds like a beast. I however am a complete V8 newbie. Here are some pics of the car/engine. I ended up having to tow the car after 40 miles of driving as smoke started to fill the cab, when I pulled over it seemed like transmission fluid was dripping onto the exhaust. Upon examination we found the speedometer (speedometer and tach not hooked up) cable opening was closed with a rubber bushing and a wingnut. I tightened up the wingnut and have taken it for some short trips and it has not leaked yet. So that seems to have fixed the problem. I am not a huge auto guy and would prefer a 5-speed. I don’t even know where to start with wrapping my head around what that would entail. I have 2 large questions at the moment. The first is the transmission which has no transmission cooler – and it not hooked up to the radiator for cooling – is this a problem? The second is the flywheel – it looks like casing was trimmed back for some reason and the flywheel is exposed – is this a problem? Thanks for any help.
  22. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  23. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  24. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  25. This is my first post here so I hope I won't get flamed, but I have really been thinking about the possibility of swapping a ford ecoboost motor into a first gen. I daily a focus st, and the car is just a riot so the thought of putting a similar engine in a lighter rwd car is really appealing. The engine itself mates perfectly to a trans from a Miata, and ford sells a control pack (all of which can be had for around $2500) it also bumps power to a claimed 280hp/360tq at the crank on 91. I'm aware of the need to fab a bunch of crap, and run new fuel lines and such. To me it sounds like a pretty badass project, I'm open to any and all opinions. Thanks.
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