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Showing results for tags 'swap'.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
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Well im new to the whole datsun/nissan scene and I found what seems like a good deal on a z32 LSD on my local Craigslist and was wondering if A _ It's a possible swap and B_if it is possible what modifications would have to be made. Thanks guys oh and by the way, admins, if this post is plain stupid I would not be offended if you deleted it.-Grayson PS- I also found a set of Z32 brake calipers you can swap those too with a little modification can't you? Sorry for the noob-iness
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Hey Guys! I am new here and I have a 1978 280Z. It has a blown head gasket which I am in the middle of replacing, that and the timing chain. After doing that I am thinking about swapping in a KA24DE. I can get an engine, harness, and ECU for about $300 at a local pick and pull. What I am wondering is weather I can put the KA24DE in the Datsun with the stock 4 speed manual transmission. I have read on this forum that the KA can fit in the 5 speed but is tilted the wrong way. I am guessing that the KA will also bolt right up to the 4 speed? I am pretty good at fab work and have my schools shop to work in. I can also get a 5 speed from a 280zx or from a 240sx on craigslist, although the 240sx trans would require a custom shortened driveshaft and I am trying to do this on the cheap (or maybe could I just move the engine and trans forward 2 inches?). My preferred method is sticking with the stock trans and bolting up the KA, could I do this and make a custom oil pan to accomadate for the odd angle? Or would I have to tilt the stock trans? Thanks, Cooper. Ps. The reason that I am doing this is because I would like the MPG and reliability of the KA. -
Many of us know how difficult it is to get our later model V8 280z cars thru California smog inspection. While pre-1976 Z cars are smog exempt, anyone with a 77 or 78 Z car had to deal with CARB referee. Today I was looking at the CARB rulebook and I saw the following statement: "Vehicles with collector motor vehicles insurance policies that are at least 35 MYs years old are exempt from the visual inspection [as required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Cal. Health and Safety Code], but must comply with the emissions standards for its model year and pass a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks" My vehicle is not my primary vehicle and a collector car policy thru Hagerty Insurance only cost $350 per year. I have always believed that the California Air Board should be concern about what comes out of my tailpipe not is under my hood. A properly tuned catalytic converter equipped LT1, LS1 should easily blow cleaner than a 35 year old L28. My 78 has just reached the 35 year mark and this would make the biannual smog inspection much easier. Has anyone attempted to use this loophole yet? -
Hey guys! This is my first post on the fourm, but i have been looking through posts for about 2 months now. I am a 16 year old high school student who LOVES the datsun Z cars. It has been an intrest, basically an obsession, to build one of my own. So i guess i just have a bunch of questions that i would love to have answered. Thanks! Alighty guys, so i have very little knowledge in mechanics but i have tons of family friends who just so happen to own their own shops so i dont think actually doing mechanical things would be a huge problem. So basically what i want to do is build a 240, 260, or 280Z. I currently drive a 2007 nissan maxima and i love it but i really want a manual transmission and i love the way the Zs look. so here are my questions and inquiries. should i go with an already partially restored or restored z and just fork out the extra cash? or go with one i can restore myself. should i stay with the stock engine or swap to a 350z, i forget the numbers and letters, motor or even a L28et? of corse i want to go fast hahaha i dont want a track moster or a show car. i want something nice looking and fast(16 year old fast) that wont berak the bank in upgrading parts what will i need? i guess my thing is i want to know what is the best platform for building a Z and i want to know virtually everything to build my Z thanks guys, i know my questions are very vague but it's hard to describe exactly what i want on here thanks again guys!
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I am savign up to get an engine to drop in my 73 240z. At first i wanted an ls1 to drop in, but i am now leaning toward getting an lq4. that being siad, does anyone have experice with this swap, knowledge about crucial elements i will need to know. first question being how hard is it to swap an ls6 intake onto the lq4. SHould i consider getting a Fast intake instead of an ls6 intake? will the fast intake fit under a stock hood? if so, what size do i need to get. also what other stuff is intailed in the swap?i hve been doing researh and have bits and pieces of informaton, but am still a little confused on the whole swap i am planning on pairing this with a t56 tranny. any info will help. please... i need help
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I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got
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Hey Guys, well, i've reached a point in my project where i just had no clue what to do to get it running right other than to take it to a shop. Long story short.... The car has idling problems/ boost leak problems?e Car turns on and runs and can be driven. But the car definitely has a major lack of power as boost gets nowhere near stock psi. i checked for major leaks with a home made boost leak compressor based gadget to test leaks on piping from turbo running through inter-cooler all the way to intake plenum. gauge on tester goes down very very slowly but Not sure whether or not that should cause such significant lack of power. Car when driven barely gets to spool much boost, let alone set off the greddy type S BOV. there is fuel, there is spark. Timing i can't even get done accurately since the car idles and runs, spits, like crazy . seems like it the problem is aiming toward a boost leak problem; however, this project having been done from ground up by me and being my first swap, the margin of error remains.... electrical wiring schematics were gathered from intel from this site based on previous wiring diagrams from L28et to 240z swaps. I took it to a Datsun specialist shop here in (SAN DIEGO, CA 91911 )nearby that has remarkable yelp feedback and honest to god the owner of the shop seemed like a knowledgeable great guy and interested to fix on it.... but after 3 months of waiting i was dissapointed to hear he was unable to get positive results as (and i quote) " specialize in N/A for the most part" which would've been nice to know prior to wasting my 3 months ANYWAY! Does anybody know of a good shop here in SAN DIEGO, CA area that does honest and good work on 240z's in a timely manner for a decent price? or anybody who could take a look at it and figure out what needs to be addressed. the wrenching i can do. but with the TIME i have free it's just not feasible for me to LOOK or TROUBLESHOOT. i need someone to say " THIS, THIS, and THAT. i can get it fixed for _____and running right, otherwise its ____ for the diagnosis and have a nice day. HELP! Here's a link to a youtube Video of the car when i took it for a short ride to the end of the block, as you will notice, the car had issues staying on when cold. hopefully by hearing it maybe some of you could throw some educated guess/recommendation http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=y79Rjd1uI60 Some pics. -
Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
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So I've been asked a lot of times about the different VQ engines, and swapping into an S30. While I'm not exactly an expert on them, I am swapping a VQ35HR into my S30. Most of the questions I get are about what is required to make a VQ run. I've read a lot about it, and I've seen what other people have done to make one work. Props always have to go out to 240Hoke (Austin) and EMWHYR0HEN (Myron) for pioneering this swap into an S30. I highly recommend you read their pages and threads. Doing a swap is a big deal; it's not just a single weekend bolt on change. Usually it requires a little welding, or a lot of $ to have someone else do it. You can about guarantee that you'll blow your budget, so when you're planning a swap. Expect to spend at least $3K-$5K more than you're thinking. A VQ35DE (287HP) is very tempting, stock it’s over 100 HP more powerful than the stock L28E (170HP). Before you buy: There are a lot of places to buy an engine. But before you look, there’s a lot more to a swap than just the engine. There’s all the accessories that often don’t come with the engine (people make more $ selling them separately). Then there are the Wiring harnesses, The Computers, the Fuel management, and the Integration to your car. These are things that are costly in addition to the expense of buying the engine. You should have a plan in place before you start. Expect your car to be out of service for quite some time. Try not to get bit by the “While I’m at it†bug. Do one project at a time, one phase at a time. Planning is probably the most important part of your swap. Read Read Read; make sure you’re familiar and comfortable with all the systems, and steps for swapping an engine. Which Engine? Most people are going for the older VQ35DE, as it’s the most widely available, thus cheaper, engine. Nissan put them in the Altimas, Pathfinders, Quests, Maximas, Muranos, Xterras, and Infinity G35's / FX35's / M35's among others - depending, of course, on the model. Eg. SE, SL etc. Now keep in mind there are variances between these models. Some have different intakes, some have different heads and different transmissions. I’m not going to detail that, since we’re only interested in the RWD versions. You can get a VQ35 from a FWD or AWD car and bolt a RWD Tranny to it, but you may need to change some additional parts out which could cost more, but the initial cost may be cheaper. Buying a 350Z VQ35 may be a lot more expensive than buying an old Altima VQ35 (power limited) or G35 VQ engine based solely on the fact that it came from a 350Z, so consider that. The VQ35HR: Nissan only made the VQ35HR for 2 years in the 350Z, 07-08, so it's a lot harder to find parts. But that being said, it's an excellent engine (306HP compared to the 287HP of the DE). The plenum is side ported so it fits better in the car. The block is taller, but the plenum is shorter so height-wise it still fits in a S30. The Tranny is better internally, but it still uses the same concentric clutch which really isn't that big a deal. Replacement clutches are a lot cheaper now than they were 2 years ago. The HR does require additional Trimming on the S30 Cross member, because the Oil Filter is in the front on the right. Aside from that it's all about the same installation wise. If you’re going to go HR, You might as well go VQ37HR, they're more common (made for more years), 40hp more (~330HP), and fit almost exactly the same since they're the same block as the VQ35HR. You can get a VQ37 out of almost any G37 or 370Z. They're still not as widely available as the VQ35DE is, but the VQ37HR is an awesome engine. Really if you had the $$$$ and could find one, the VR38DETT would be the ultimate, but that's a rare animal, (and way too much $$$$$) But I digress, so with the VQ35HR (and the VQ37HR) like the DE, you still need the ECU/ BCU, NATS, IPDM and Key. It's still drive by wire so you need a gas pedal from the same year car either 350z or G35. The HR uses a 3rd plug on the ECU, so there's a 3rd harness you'll need. The Engine harness, the Engine Bay Harness and the Dash harness (body#1) If you can get these all from the same car, you'd be way ahead. The Dash harness usually comes with the fuse box. The engine bay harness includes the IPDM or at least the plugs for it. The IPDM is a computerized "smart" power management box, but really it's just the relays for things like the headlights and such. If you want to use the gauges, you'll also need the AC Amp. It really is better to buy a whole wrecked donor car, so you can just move the whole systems over directly and not worry about getting the wrong harness. Harness Mods: I know there are companies like Zfever, that can do harness mods to eliminate the extra harnesses and the BCU/NATS security. For many these work out fine, but I really have no experience with them. So look at their site and decide for yourself if you want to go that direction. Myself, I am planning on moving multiple 350Z systems into my S30, so I’m sticking with the stock 350Z harnesses. I would love to get the 350Z Cruise control working. As I understand it, Cruise only requires the ECU/BCU and the speed sensors on the Differential. Going with Stock also means you shouldn’t have to do any tuning / dyno work unless you want to. Gas Pedal: Any VQ gas pedal should work, but one from the same year car G35 or 350z should work best. I only know of one change in the gas pedal, between 04 and 05 they changed the module that senses the pedal, but the plugs are the same so I assume it'll still work. It's best to stick with the same year as the engine - just to be sure it’ll work. Procuring an engine: You might look first at the junkyards, and then if nothing is available there, put an ad up on craigslist or whatever you prefer, and see if someone privately has a car. You may be able to buy a 07 SE or SL Altima or earlier Maxima, pretty cheap with the DE engine. (Though you'd have to find a RWD tranny) Quest minivans are also cheap. (Note that some of these are ECU limited in HP) But look around and see what's available locally. Then if you can't find one, the next is so search JDM engine sources. (Japan has a 35K miles law that basically it's too expensive to drive something with more than 35K miles, tax-wise, so there's tons of good JDM engines being shipped out) Another place to look is into insurance auctions, a lot of times you can buy a wrecked complete car for $2K-$3K though most require that you bring a dealer along. Donors: It’s best to buy a Whole Donor, so not only do you know that all the parts once worked together, it’ll be a lot easier and cheaper to have all the little modules and parts (engine accessories like Alt, PS Pump, AC pump etc) for your swap there on hand, and much cheaper than tracking them all down separately. Your neighbors may not like it, so plan on at least a car cover. Once your swap is complete, you can part the rest or sell it for scrap. A note on this: If you don’t buy a Donor, you can still get a lot of the same parts cheaper from lesser VQ equipped cars, than the higher dollar 350Z/G35 cars. Eg. The MAF’s are all the same part number across most Nissan models since 2003. Eg. It's $60 for a Quest MAF, and $98 for a 350Z MAF, same part #. That being said, I still bought a lot of my parts cheap on Ebay, and from Turbo-Toys, who dismantles mostly VQ cars. Mounting: Well McKinney Motorsports makes a Mount kit which is pretty good. But it’s very expensive. “Why the expense?†is a different conversation. But you can make your own from plans you can find on the internet. Or, you and make your own custom mounts as someone here on Hybridz did. One part that will be common to all VQ swaps in the S30, is the “Modding the Steering cross member.†You’ll need to cut away half or more of the cross member and bolster the front side to retain the stiffness for your suspension and Steering mounting. For the HR, you’ll also have to make a cut out for the oil filter. You’ll also need to cut out the S30 Stock Tranny mounts in the tunnel, and make/buy a new Tranny mount. You may also need to mod the shifter hole to fit. You will also need to build/buy a Shift linkage bracket (Ahoke’s is really nice!) to shorten the distance from the shifter to the Tranny. (This is one argument to switch to the Auto Tranny version as the Auto is shorter and Drive by wire – Though the width I’m uncertain about.) You will also need to route the S30 steering shaft around the exhaust. Usually this is done by adding another U-joint and extension, (Mine came from the donor 350Z steering) and building a bearing mount on the left fender wall. There’s a lot more to this, but this is basically what’s required. AC and Power Steering: Air Conditioning. Well the Stock VQ location for the AC pump won’t work due to the Steering shaft. So either you’ll have to do without, Build a different bracket, or go with electric AC. The S30 AC system can be made to work, but would require complete disassembly and cleanout, then reassembly and recharge using modern refrigerant from the 350Z. (I was looking at replacing the 350Z PS pump with the 350z AC pump and making different bracket. Again that is a different project). Power steering, yes it’s possible, but it’ requires integrating it with the “Adding Power Steering†topics here on Hybridz. It’s probably cheaper to go with that electric PS system. Exhaust: You’ll need to make/buy a custom exhaust as the stock headers point right at the S30 firewall when mounted. Turbo/Twin Turbo: kits are available, but run in the $4K-$6K range. GTM is a good company. Of course there would be further costs and mods required to put them an S30. I recommend that you get it working in stock form first. Transmission: The 350Z’s come with either an Auto or a 6 sp manual. Really either one is great, the Auto has a lot of features like manual shift or automatic. The VQ37 also has synchro rev-match (2010+) available, which is pretty fun, where the ECU detects you're shifting and matches the engine speed to your shift, so technically you can shift without the clutch. Watch out though, if you get the engine from a G37x the x is AWD, and the Tranny won't work in an S30 unless you go AWD with it too, which is really expensive. I think the Auto Tranny may have a control unit, but I haven't looked into that much since I’m going Manual. I know the engine harness is different for the Auto. You can use an Engine / harness from an Auto with a manual, but not vice versa. The auto tranny reverse lockout switch would need to be bypassed. You’d have to source a flywheel/clutch, remove the flex plate and buy a new pinion bearing / Flywheel bolts. The early 03 / 04 350z manual trannies had some synchro issues, so look out for those. All VQ35DE Manual RWD trannies are interchangeable from 03 through 06. The 07-08 years used a JK Tranny with a different bolt pattern, I haven’t verified that the 09 + VQ37 Tranny will work with a 07 or 08 HR engine, but it should because they both use the same block. It's best to use the 350Z Clutch master since it's matched to the concentric slave. Differentials: You can use the Stock S30 R200, and should be fine, though the 3.54 gearing may be a little tall for you. 3.7 or 3.9:1 might make you a little happier. The 350z uses a Short nosed R200, with the timing wheels on the stubs. The timing wheels can be used to tell the ECU to display how fast you’re going using the AC amp and the stock 350Z electronics. You’d have to use a Ron Tyler (RT) type mount to install a short nosed R200. This is the same for installing a short nosed R230 from a Z32. Both have the timing wheels. Your Stock S30 Speedo won’t work with a Z33/Z34 Tranny. A LSD is available in both the Z33/Z34 and the Z32 Diff’s. The Subi LSD R180 should still work with the VQ’s power, but your stub axles are the weak point. Fuel: Most swaps I've seen actually go through the work to upgrade the S30 fuel lines. I'm not certain that's required since the 350Z fuel lines appear to be the same size. The VQ needs to be run either on a "dead head" configuration or on a return configuration. Either way, you'll need a good quality Fuel pressure regulator, and a stronger Fuel pump. I've seen people swap in the Stock 350Z pumps, and I've seen people use walbrough 255 LPH pumps. Both are workable. You'll need to research the different setups and decide what will work for you. My plan is to use a quart sized pressure container in the engine compartment with the input and the output to the engine on the bottom then a FPR and a return to the tank on the top. That way any bubbles float up through the FPR and my engine has constant pressure from before the FPR. Likely I'll use the S30 tank and an external walbrough. The 08+ cars are nice too, in that most use the key fob deal that with Bluetooth, allows for push button operation, so you wouldn't have to even take your keys out of your pocket. But that's another story. Now I realize this is really not much more than a primer, but it answers most of the questions I am regularly asked. I welcome constructive comments. Good luck on your projects. I would highly recommend for you to download the FSM's for the VQ35DE, VQ35HR, and the VQ37HR cars so you can see exactly what these components do, and what each system consists of. Being familiar with that will make sure you pull all the parts you want the FIRST TIME. Here are the FSM links: http://www.xenonz33.com/reference.html http://www.xenonz34.com/reference.html PharaohABQ.
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OK, I just want to be clear I looked around already, but I've found a lot of conflicting information on the subject. I want to swap the R200 open diff on my 280z for the CLSD from the 88 Z31. I already have the new diff, but I haven't gotten a chance to try and install it yet. So far I've gathered that this is a bolt on swap and the ONLY thing I have to do is swap the driveshaft companion flange. Now, Some people say that I need to take off the finned cover and put my old non-finned cover on. I'd like to retain the finned cover so my diff won't overheat. Is there a bolt-on friendly (read: no welding) way of doing this? z31 mustache bar or something? Is this even a real problem? Thanks guys.
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Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.
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Hey all I'm at odds with what to decide on doing and need some suggestions (some advice wouldn't be bad either.) Well here's my dilemma; I have a bmw M50B25 out of a 1992 325is complete with everything except the flywheel and clutch in my garage and I wanna know what you guys think of swapping it into a Z would be like or should i just stick to swapping init the L26 with the round top SU's I got with the car? If i were to swap in the M50b25 i would want to run boost on it because stock they can handle a conservative setup of 8-12psi, but the real dilemma is that I'm kinda unsure of the swap because It's never been done before and I don't really want to open up a pandora's box of problems. People have told me that the engine is relatively simple but that's not always the case. Anyways I'd gladly appreciate any input you guys have as to this swap. Oh and the engine itself is a stand alone system so wiring shouldn't be too much of a hassle.
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Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here at HZ. Last month I picked up a 280z with the stock 80k mile L28 and auto tranny. Obviously thats not gonna fly with me hahah. Im planning a winter build of a RB25DET swap. I know there are many build threads to read but I have one question. How does the RB's transmission fit? Are there any recommended motor mounts that help make the transmission fit with the stock driveshaft? or fit betting inside? Thanks guys, I love this community already -Nate
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I'm looking for an apater to bolt a t3/t4 up to the stock zx manifold. I've looked on ebay and found several but it looks like there are a couple different flanges that coupled the t3 to different makes, so I was wanting one that fit our cars, obviously. lol The flange on my compressor housing is bolt hole, center to center 3" x 1 1/8". Thanks fellas
