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  1. When i realized my 240z project was too rusty under all the bondo to bother i was bummed out. When my 300zx motor started to sound like a washing machine full of rocks i was ready to give up on life. When my boss told me i needed to get my junk cars out of the shop, I completely lost my mind and offered him $2000 for "everything i need to make it move" out of the various salt water flooded mustangs in the shop. We restored flooded cars and shipped them over seas btw. Note the giant pile of wires!
  2. Hi I'm currently researching swapping a KA24DE along with the KA 5 speed trans into my 280z and have questions regarding mounting. I plan on running this setup due to a turbo build planned. I've read the trans is able to be mounted via the stock mounts but I've also seen that its not possible and would like an answer to the debate. Im also planning on using McKinney motor mounts and was curious if anybody has any experience with them and what they think of them? Also, I've heard I may need a custom driveshaft and was wondering if that was true or not. I've read on a forum previous that I won't need to but I'd like to know if I need a custom one before I do the swap.
  3. Hello all, I'm pondering doing a gearbox upgrade as I have everything out of the car for my restomod and my 5-speed gearbox is "missing" 5th gear. The car is a 73 240z Europe edition and I believe I have the FS5C71B gearbox mounted in the car. Searching around I found recommendations of the FS5W71C swap from the 180SX, 200SX, and 240SX. I can find plenty of rather low mileage FS5W71C gearboxes for sale so that is not a problem. I read the following guide http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm and it is highlighted that you need the FS5W71B bell housing. Question is -> Has anyone had any experience using the FS5C71B bell housing for this swap rather than the FS5W71B? Cheers, Erik
  4. Hi everyone, I recently picked up an L28ET with a T5 transmission. It's missing a few bits and pieces- water pump (cheap and easy), distributor cap (also cheap and easy), AFM, ECU, and harness. Of course I'll need a driveshaft and diff (or at least the driveshaft flange from it) as well. This will be going into a '76 280z. I'm planning on having it be my summer project that I can work on in my free time. I want to tear it down and replace what needs it, then paint it, put it back together, and get it running. Once the ball is rolling, I want to replace the J pipe with a FMIC. Planning on a modest same side in/out intercooler from CX Racing to make the intercooler piping easier and less complex. 24"X7"X3.5" core dimensions so it's a couple feet long, 7 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. Not very big but I feel like I don't need a lot with what I want out of the engine. My friend has done this swap in a '75 and his dad did his exhaust so hopefully I can commission him to help me out as well. I've read that I can get away with using the stock harness by swapping the guts of the turbo AFM into the stock AFM but I'm a bit wary of this and I haven't been able to find much about it- I just saw it mentioned in a small thread on another site. If anyone has a link to a more in-depth discussion or write-up, that would be great. Given the prices I've seen, I get the feeling it would make sense to go with a 300zx ECU/MAF upgrade from the outright. My reservation is that given my lack of experience, it may be safer to go with the stock setup and get it running before upgrading it. However, I'll be messing with wiring either way. Megasquirt is almost certainly above my head at this point. The turbo has a bit of shaft play from just a quick wiggle test. I'll have to check it further once I pull it off and see if it will rub at all. If not, I'll probably just rebuild it and run it for the time being. I've read that the 280zx turbo manifold flange is uncommon. Will a different turbo require changing the flange, or is there one I can use without modifying it? My horsepower goals are fairly modest in my opinion, at least for now. The stock rated 180bhp is fine until I start to upgrade things. I'd be happy with putting down 200 whp and right now I feel like anything over 250 whp would be excessive (and yes, the bhp and whp distinction was intentional). I'd like to avoid boost until ~3000-3500 rpm to keep it tame around town and cruising on the freeway. I know that is generally determined by the turbo and intake/exhaust setup but I'll need to read more about how to build it to keep it in that range. Any advice and links are appreciated. Like I said, I've been doing a lot of reading but a lot of information is scattered and difficult to find. These are the areas that I'm uncertain about after the many hours of reading and searching I've done. - Brandon
  5. So I came across a hell of a deal on an s13 rear sub frame and ended up picking it up for $10 ! I've seen a few threads on this topic so don't think I haven't done my research it's just that they were all older threads and I didn't feel like resurrecting it from its hibernation. Now a few of my buddies told me that it should bolt in with little to no modification/fabricating. I know also then you could run more recent brakes (Z32 all day baby) and also have an easier platform to a 5 lug swap and better differentials. Some insight on if this will work and if it will the steps it would take. Thanks guys! - Grayson
  6. After 25 years of loyal service my SBC 350 is coming out, and replacing it will be a beautiful 5.3LS out of a 04 Yukon with 95K on the clock. The plans are simple for this build cam,and intake springs and rockers if needed other than that just the stuff it will take to fit and get running right. Have not made a choice on a trans yet would love a 6 speed but the T56 is out of my price range for now but who know buy the thing I get it done. I will keep you guy updated with my progress even though it will be at a snails pace. I am so pumped. Old Sbc new 5.3
  7. I've had this idea since I was a little kid to put a 6.7 liter Cummins in a 240 and or 260 I just want to know if anybody thinks it can be done I wanna try to keep it fairly stock looking so no 2 feet front end extension's besides being heavy in the front end really heavy could it be done?
  8. Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.
  9. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  10. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
  11. I've never seen a thread where someone documented how hawks mounts actually mount up and are installed. So I took a bunch of pics when I did mine for all to enjoy. Chassis Mounts Here's how the mounts look in your hand. I'll explain what each location really does as we move along. And here is the back of the plate that you must weld onto the frame. As you can see, you must clearance the frame in order for the plate to site flush again your frame rails. But before we get into that, lets see how we locate the bracket (front to back). So here is the mount just resting on the frame rail, without the backing plate, You can see now that the lower location of the bracket lines up perfectly with the lower control arm bolt. Now all you have to do is loosen the LCA bolt, remove the nut, and thread the bolt into the bracket (yeah its threaded down there). Once you have it threaded in and snugged (not tight), you've got it located front to back. So then I attached the backing plate to the bracket and swung it back into place on the frame rail. Obviously the backing plate wont sit flush until you clearance the frame. So now, mark the front and back of the backing plate on the frame like so. Now remove the backing plate from the main bracket, also remove the main bracket from the LCA bolt. Place the backing plate on the frame and mark the hole locations. Note that they will be off because you still cant set the bracket flush. So here are my marks. Let me save you some time and suggest that you cut the frame like the pic below. I tried counterboring the holes to make room for the tacked on nuts, but its harder to get the position correct. Notching the frame is easier and much faster. Now you can check to see if the bracket will sit flush. It might not sit perfectly flush, but pretty close. Heres how mine looked. If its good enough for your taste, put the main bracket on the LCA bolt and bolt it back to the backing plate. This will ensure that when you weld it, it is in fact correctly positioned. You probably want to go ahead and grind off the paint on the frame as well, I dont have a pic of that but you get the idea. Now your ready to weld. Just for reference, the side of the frame rail is twice as thick as the top. So you can get a little more heat into that side. Here's my ugly flux core madness, but it will get the job done. The second one turned out much prettier after I found a rhythm. And here is the finished product. Engine Mounts The mounts on the motor are fairly straightforward but I figured I'd show them for documentation purposes. Here is where the original mount goes. And here is the backing plate for the new Hawks mount. Dont put that lower right bolt in though, that comes later with the actual mount. And here is it all bolted together. At this point, I dropped the motor in to position the trans mount. I'll write more on that in the Trans Mount section. Here, its just to show you how the motor sits in the bay.
  12. Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 81 l28et (all stock) swap into my 74 260z. My harness was missing the 6 pin ignition harness. I wired the correct yellow/white stripe wire (3) to my ignitor. Other prong on ignitor has its own switched 12v. The yellow wire (2) on the harness side has switched 12v. And finally the supposedly black ground wire (3) on my harness is cut and i can not for the life of me find the wire . If someone can tell me where this wire goes or what prong on the computer plug it connects to. Thank you 74 260z 73 240z
  13. zdrade

    WTB: l28et

    Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
  14. Hello all! This is actually my first forum post, as I have been lurking quite a bit. Please let me know if I have posted this in the wrong place. I am currently in the midst of a 240z restomod, with a remarkably clean shell out in the yard. I have solidifed the plan to put a RB25DET in it in the foreseeable future, as the charm of the RB engines has quite a hold on me Now the kicker is, I'm on a tight budget, being in high school and soon college. I want to begin to build the car and get the internals working before I drive it over to a paint shop to get a nice finish (it is currently primered). My initial thought was to go with the RB right off the bat, however this would result in the car being off the road and in the shop for much longer than I can stand, as well as be a huge task for a newbie mechanic. My current thought is to purchase a good ol' L28 and a 5 speed tranny for use until the car looks and moves how I want, then RB later when money is not as tight. Another reason is that I love the feel of the L series with a passion and want to get to know the engine before moving to bigger and better things. Is this a reasonable plan or will I sink too much money into an engine I plan to replace anyways for it to be worth it?
  15. Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
  16. Hello fellow datsunites. I'm looking for some insight on how your rb motors mount up. I'm looking to fabricate some mounts for mine but I wanna see how some of yours sit, even if it's a off the shelf kit. I just need them for reference and brain storming. What I have is a full square tube chassis car, I also have a fully built rb25. The motor was a previous 300zx swap so it came with the mounts. I plan on adapting those mounts to work with my application. I wanna set the motor back as far as possible, even if that means not mounting it to the cross member. I also wanna see how your pans hang in relation to the crossmember, any help is appreciated. I have searched for pictures or threads on this topic with no avail. I'm confident in my fabrication skills, I just wanna get some ideas and maybe we can all brainstorm. Thanks, Devin
  17. I haven't posted here in forever it seems like. A lot of you guys have yet to be introduced to the green Z unless you've seen it on Facebook. We picked it up actually to only rob the fenders from for the red one but I've ended up falling in love. It's a hardtop car whereas the red one has a sunroof. I attempted to make a new headliner for it where the factory one was torn up. After that not much else has happened except for locating all the rust areas which, on this car, aren't actually that bad. It has been garage kept for the last couple years that I know of which has led to mostly only the floor pans being shot. the rocker panels are decent but could use some patching and a few areas in the door jam area that need some attention. As far as engine goes I've resorted back to the 2jz I have sitting around. Still working on mounts for it and am currently gathering parts, or rather money to buy parts, to start rebuilding it. Nothing spectacular out of it but maybe some GTE internals If my engine builder friend has them. Stock head for now but maybe some day switch to either a 1jz for a 1.5jz build or straight to a non vvti 2jzgte head. These are all just dreams right now and I think I'll be more than happy with a stock 2jzge in a 2500lb car. As of now all I've done is painted the valve covers, clean the block a little, and have sourced some more of the parts I'll be needing. A crankshaft from an sc300 and also a wiring harness and ecu from an SC. After that all that's left is a rebuild kit with gaskets and bearings and such. Also gonna go ahead and replace the water and oil pumps while the engine is out. Suspension I'm leaning towards the T3 DIY coilover kit or maybe just some of the mr2 struts with stiffer springs. Wheels will be some of the diamond racing wheels for now but in the end is a secret . Let's just say I'll be looking into doing a 5 lug swap soon as well. Still looking into a cd009 transmission swap but I may just throw a w58 on the 2jz and get it in the car. Maybe I'll actually be able to provide updates for this thread pretty quick. I enrolled in my local technical college for their electrician/ commercial wiring class and will be done about summer time next year. I'm kinda excited about that but who needs eduaction when you have a Z car. LMAO. Thanks guys
  18. Hi guys, here's where I'm at- I'm trying to get underway on a v8 swap into my '73 240z. Car will be for street use/getting into trouble- nothing serious like autoX/track/drag. My plans are as follows: Chevy 350 engine 650cfm vac secondary carb MSD 6al ign Camaro t5 trans Custom driveshaft JTR engine/trans mounting kit JTR headers (maybe) Custom exhaust Upgraded fuel pump OEM radiator from v8 car I have been doing a ton of reading and already ordered the JTR manual but still have a few logistical questions. I found a good candidate for a motor, BUT it is a truck vortec motor. I've read there are 2 main types of flywheels- 153 & 168 tooth. Don't know which one this engine has. Since I plan on using a camaro T5 (I know these get a bad rap, but I think for a mostly stock 350 I should be ok if I don't abuse it?) I'm not sure about fitment. So, first question, 1) what kind of fitment issues should i be thinking about? As long as the flywheel is the right diameter it should just bolt up? My z is carb'd and this engine ill be too. So, second question, 2) Do you think my fuel system can flow enough for a 350? It has a return line so I'm assuming the pump isn't close to max capacity right now, which is why i wasn't sure if an upgrade would be necessary since i'm staying carb'd. I have a couple more, but lets start with these and hopefully reading the manual should answer most of them. Mostly stumped on the t5 trans fitment to what other engines. I've been reading a lot on hot rod forums but haven't exactly found an answer. Thanks, Adrian
  19. Hey I have a 1970 datsun 240z and I've been thinking about a 2jz conversion for a while now, due to some recent circumstances I've really started to think about the swap very seriously. I was wondering how much it would cost to get everything I need for the build, wiring harness, mounts, engine, drivetrain, ect. I realize that cost depends on a lot of things but I was hoping to get some estimates, I plan on getting brakes/ suspension/strut braces already so you can subtract that from total cost. Something else I may have to consider is taking it to a shop as i don't have room to work on it where I live and I cant say they would even let me. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks. My estimate: engines $2,500-3,000 350z trans $400-700 engine mounts $300 plug 'n' play wiring harness $799 BC coilovers $1,200 strut braces $240 wilwood stages 3's $2,000 350z trans adapter plate $400 exhaust (?) differential (?) driveshaft (?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $8,990-9,790 no tax... $9,889-10,769 after adding 10% for tax.
  20. So I started this project back in October but I figured it's time throw it out there and see what everyone has to say. 1975 280z turbo lsx th400 8.8 swap. Found this beauty in a car port coupe miles away Taking her home Didn't hesitate to start pulling her apart Motor out Jci mounts came in Start on the energy bushings First mock up, can't wait till it's for real Stated pulling the motor apart for new bearings and new guts All the go fast toys are starting to stack up, better start putting them on Gutted bay, ready for clean up Well I won't be needing this anymore In with the new Motor finally coming back together with some new goodies Billet rails turned out great Finally back in, time to start the fun part Poor man's tacking skills Well that escalated quickly Just a little street car. Hey it fits! More to follow soon, gonna be gone for about a month, but I'll be full throttle as soon as I return.
  21. So i finally blew up my 2nd T5 transmission. This time locking it up solid while doing a 5th gear pull on the highway. So i figured now would be a great time to do the 240sx transmission swap I've seen from different articles. I referred alot to the following http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm Unfortunately this write up is for the S30 chassis, and not the S130 chassis like I have. DISCLAIMER, This swap was done on a 83' 280zx Turbo Couple. It will be slightly different on the Non-turbo, and will definitely be different on the 2+2, but only in the aspect of different driveshaft flanges and lengths. As far as the machining and transmission build aspects of this, it is exactly the same. Where it starts to differ however is once you get the transmission bolted to the engine block. I will explain all of that here. So once you've got all of your machining work done, which I chose to machine my non-turbo Z bell housing to fit the 240sx countershaft bearing size, since a bigger bearing, better load distribution, etc. etc. etc. Of course while I had it all apart, I found the center plate bearing for the countershaft was shot, so I went ahead and replaced both the main shaft and countershaft bearings in the center plate. I got lucky for $75, it only needed 1 bearing in reality, and all of the synchros were in great shape along with all of the gears as well. Once you get it all bolted back up to the motor, here is where there are some slight differences in relation to the S30 The S30 requires some cross member modification to allow the transmission to mount to it, as it is 2" longer. However on the S130, you do not need to drill any holes anywhere. Remove the 240sx transmission mount, and bolt the 280zx transmission mount to the tailshaft housing. Now bolt the rear cross member up and let the transmission down. It lines up perfectly. Next is going to be the driveshaft With this being a turbo car, the T5 output shaft spline is bigger and completely different than the 240sx and non turbo Z output shaft spline. The other thing is the turbo R200 differential flange is different from a non-turbo R200. Now you could just swap the non-turbo R200 flange and have the non-turbo drive shaft shortened, but you still run into the issue of non-replaceable U-joints, and the diameter of the non-turbo drive shaft is smaller than the turbo drive shaft. I was in a pinch at the moment, and did not have a line on a non-turbo differential flange, nor did I want to wait to get one in. So what I ended up doing was having a completely new driveshaft built. It has HD replaceable and greaseable U-joints, and is the same diameter of the turbo driveshaft, and can be lengthened or shortened with ease at any time should I ever need it. My driveshaft guy can get brand new yokes with the proper output shaft splines, and can get the proper matching differential flange as well. So now I have a completely serviceable driveshaft. If anyone else here is interested in them, I will be marketing them for direct bolt in applications with no fabrication needed, especially if you are considering this swap, this will provide the least amount of headaches. Also with my calculations, we got the driveshaft length just right So once you have the driveshaft issue solved, you can move onto shifter clearance. As you can see, since the transmission is 2" longer, it moves the shifter back quite further. It was actually hitting the top of the transmission tunnel. It also now makes the stock shift boot insulator no longer line up, as well as the shift boot trim ring. If you put the shift boot trim ring in its proper orientation, the shifter will hit it when going into 2nd, 4th, and reverse and not allow proper gear engagement. So this has to be rotated 180 degrees. For now I was able to make it fit. It is a very tight fit, but with a little bit of ingenuity, you can get it in there without having to cut or sand down anything. So to make room for the new shifter clearance, you need to remove a 1" by 4" piece of metal from the top of the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel. I also took this time to install a short throw shifter. I just bought some off-brand from ebay, and so far with about 100 miles it has taken my abuse and not given up at all. Feels great as well! The stock shifter is VERY sloppy, and has ALOT more throw than the stock Z transmission shifters. The shifter also sits a few inches higher than the stock Z shifters do, but to me, it is not enough to be bothersome, I actually thing it's a little better being higher up. So back to the shift boot insulator issue. I cut a secondary hole in the stock shift boot insulator to compensate for the offset of the new shifter. I then sourced a shift boot insulator from a 92-02 Chevy Camaro, which seemed like it would get me close enough to what I was trying to achieve. I'm sure there are better options out there, but for my time constraints, I was able to make this work quite well. For proper fitment, this shift boot insulator will require some minor modification. First off, the shifter hole needs to be expanded just slightly. The shifter hole needs to be elongated slightly, enough so that it fits seamlessly over the expanding part of the shifter. All I had to do was remove the very top ring of rubber around the hole, and it fit perfectly. This can be done with a pair of very sharp scissors, or tin snips. The other issue you will run into is the Camaro insulator is a little wider than the Z transmission tunnel This causes the carpet to bow out on the sides, and also doesn't allow the center console to seat properly over the entire thing, it will sit about an inch above the mount holes. Not pictured, but if you flip the Camaro shift boot insulator over, you will see a ridge which is what would ride in the shifter hole on the Camaro and seal against the body. This ridge is what seals against the Z trans tunnel as well, so anything protruding past that on the left and right sides, can be trimmed down. A little bit of trimming with a saw-zall or a cutting wheel will do the trick. Just trim along the sides and the carpet will now sit in a better position, and also allow the center console to sit lower and be able to bolt it down as well. Because of the new offset, and the different size shifter, you will not be able to retain the Stock Z shift knob or shift boot. They were long overdue for replacement, so I got a leather shift boot on ebay, and got a weighted shift knob with the proper thread for the 240sx shifter. Bolt it all down and go for a test drive. It doesn't sit 100% flush like factory, but it will sit flush enough to not move, creak, or look like crap. Overall I'm pretty satisfied with the results. The 240sx transmission definitely feels ALOT better than the crap T5 that I had. It is built ALOT better than what they had in the 70's and early 80's. As I said earlier in this write-up, I will be offering completely serviceable bolt in drive shafts for all swaps. Whether you are doing a turbo, non turbo, 2+2, whatever it is, I can get it made and shipped to you for $500 anywhere in the Continental US. International orders will be a case by case basis. I also will offer to build your transmission so its ready to bolt in as soon as you get it back from me. If you source me a Z bell housing, and 240sx transmission, I will get all of the machine work done, and bolt it all together if it doesn't need any hard parts starting at $600 plus shipping costs back and forth. If you need me to source the transmission and bell housing for you, and other parts, it will be $1200. I am located in Texas should anyone be interested. I'd like to make this swap as easy and bolt in as possible, given the T5's are getting very hard to find, and the non turbo 5 speeds are laughable at best when you're putting down a decent amount of power. Hope this encourages more of you all to consider and possibly go through with this swap. I wish I'd have done this years ago.
  22. Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a 280zx with a L28et turbo engine. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Trying to find a donor car that runs but isn't very nice for the outside, really just need the engine. I'm swapping it over to my '78 280z. Preferably manual, unless its possible to bolt my current stock 5 speed transmission to the other engine w/o problems. Thanks.
  23. Hi Guys I am about to purchase a complete rear end setup from a 1978 280z. The owner claims the car was a manual, and I'm needing to know how to identify that the car really was a manual. I know that if the car was truly a manual, then the rear end is indeed a R200. Any tips or identifiers on the rear end or the car being a manual is much appreciated. I've listed a link where I sourced the majority of my info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Thanks, Ben
  24. I'm looking for a L28et Harness w/ Z31 ecu conversion which would include: Harness, z31 turbo ecu, maf, & wheel. I would prefer it to be pulled from a running car. If no one can offer me the entire setup, I will start hunting for parts of the setup.
  25. I've narrowed my search for an engine to swap into my '74 Datsun to either a Nissan 2.6l Rb26 or a Toyota 3l 2jzgte. Following will be my reasons for each engine and why I want to swap it. (ALL PRICES ARE AS LISTED ON www.jdmenginedepot.com) RB26DET: 1). keep the tradition going of an inline 6, 2.6l as the stock l26 2). More suppport and kits avaliable on the market 3). Very distinct sound of an RB ...(The link to the RB http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/106/Nissan_RB26DETT_Skyline_R32_GT-R_Engine,_Manual_AWD_Trans,_Harness,_&_ECU_JDM_RB26DETT) 2JZGTE: 1). Significantly cheaper than the Rb26 (http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/208/Toyota_2JZ-GTE_VVTI_Aristo_/_Supra_/_Lexus_GS300_/_Lexus_SC300_Engine,_Automatic_Trans_&_Harness_JDM_2JZGTE) 2). Clearance of the turbochargers and the steering column would'nt be a problem 3). C'mon it's a Toyota! 4). I have access to a lot of information on the JZ platform from my friends THE NEGATIVES OF EACH: RB26 1; would have to source an rb25 tranny so 2; Japan only ever made a few cars with the RB26 and not many if not none of them reached the states so parts would be a PITA and wallet 3; Turbos apparently have a lot of issue clearing the steering column on a US spec 260z (LHD) 2JZ: 1; More fabrication work (not really an issue) 2; Less support in the since of swap kits without them costing $2k+ 3; For some reason I feel like wiring would be a pain (I may be wrong) 4; It would come from the shipper with automatic tranny and that just won't do. So I would then have to find either a W series or save up and find an R154. But shouldnt cost any more than the RB26. And someone might acually want a turbo auto trans from a 2j compared to the S**t box that is the AWD RB tranny. For fuel I suppose I'm just gonna go the beaten path of probably a 12-15 gallon fuel cell and a Walbro 255 As you can see I have a lot more positives on the Toyota side compared to the RB but I want input from people WHO HAVE ACTUALLY DONE EITHER SWAP (or have assissted in it, or that know more than it is a hard swap) Thank you guys! - Grayson
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