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Showing results for tags '1973'.
Found 11 results
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Looking for 1973 Datsun 240z body hood emblems and scripts
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Need a 1973 headlight combo switch, im in nj so can drive or factor that for shipping Mine crapped out, i tried cleaning that little box with the tabs that controls the headlights and tail lights but the issues was with those little caps that cover the springs in the mechanism they were totally messed up and that whole box is kind of dead.... looking for either entire assembly or just the little headlight box with the rocker switches and those 2 springs with the little caps. Attached a pic of the box and the little caps over the springs, let me know what you have! car isnt really entirely drivable with out this! thank you!
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Selling my 1973 Datsun 240z on Bring A Trailer. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-43/ LS1 engine, T-56 transmission Exterior: White 2,400 miles since rebuild Located in San Diego, CA More details on bring a trailer in link above. Contact: John DM for contact info and questions.
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I have a 1970 240z. I aquired a 1973 240z front bumper that has a different setup/bracket. I do not have the arm/rod brackets for the 73 or the "L" brackets for the 70. What do i need to install it on the 70 z? If i buy the early L brackets will they work or do i need to remove the U shape bracket (that looks like the rear) that is bolted inside the bumper and utilize or drill a new hole on the bumper? If the L bracket will work, i am willing to buy them, but didnt want to until i consulted with someone who is more knowlegeable on the issue. Picture: Early on top, 73 on bottom. I have the bottom and the left bolt seems to line up and so does the hole on the bumper behind the bracket stud according to the picture but i have not done any measuring. NOTE: I will also move the guard to a more outer position since the early z's had the guard next to the light bucket and the 73's had them about 4 inches on each side closer to center. In addition, i will have to find an overider that belongs to the early z. the 73 is a shorter bar and will not work.
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Hello, My name is Joey, and I am looking to start a dream project. Thing's I care about: -Little to NO rust -Title/Paperwork Thing's I don't care about: -Engine Please contact my gmail @joepez56 or via text @773-719-9133 (Please do not abuse my info, I only am giving it because I will resond faster to those)
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Ok, so I can see the finish line from a very long journey, that is my 1973 RB 240Z. I have a CLSD from an 1989 Z31T with the CV shafts. I'm trying to get the CV axles bolted into my car but I have been finding out that these adapter options for the CV adapter conversion are PRICEY!!! Especially, when you factor in the price for having to get the 27 spline axles from a 280Z (getting harder to find) and the Modern-Motorsport option. Plus, I don't know why NOBODY developed and adapter for the stock 240Z 25 spline stub axles to just bolt to the Z31T CV axles!!!! People keep saying that it was for strength but I don't buy that. They are not much thicker, and you've only gained just 2 splines. For a stock RB, I'm sure the 25 spline will hold up just fine. I'm just trying to get my CV's under the car. Looking for the welded plate to stock flange option so that I can get my car back on the road. I've seen pictures on Google from what Modern-Motorsports "used" to do, but I need better specs for the plate(steal). I found specs for a plate for the 280ZXT CV's, but I cant figure out why no one has done this for the Z31T CV axles. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place... Anyone have any answers??? Thanks for any and all help you give.
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Hey all, looking for a used/new/spare aftermarket header (or perhaps full system?) for my L24. Not concerned with brand, just not rusted or broken. My stock exhaust is shot and it would make life easier to go aftermarket. Shipping to NC 28411 and I would like to use paypal. Pics and price to bstznut@hotmail.com Thank you!
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Hello all!! After replacing the floor pans and bracket base, I broke off a stud on my donor veh 1970 seat frame. It's a very unique bolt. Anyone have any ideas on where I can get a replacement and how to remove the old and install the new one...Help!!!
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So I recently got a 260z last month and this problem has finally gotten to me. The infamous post emissions Flat top SUs are bogging when I lay the pedal to the metal. They will just begin to barf gasoline out the overflow valve if I start it up and rev it while the carbs are still cold. But this especially happens up in the hills (In Alaska) and no matter how slow I start up the carbs they will bog and puke up good gasoline. All I can do is floor it till what I assume is the floats go back up. Usually all it takes is flooring it till it touches off on 5k revs. But this problem is very persistant and when I come down from the hills after the carbs go cold all they wanna do is bog for the next 5 to 10 minutes. Now I'm just gonna guess this problem is from sticky floats and fouled up Emission carbs. (cept for all the emissions are taken off because Alaska)
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Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
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Well here it is, my first build thread on this site. I am looking forward to see what comes out of it. Coming from a 350z, building a 240z is totally different. This is my first time working on a turbo car! I wanted to find a nice platform I can build upon. Here are Pictures: Mod List: ZX F54/p79 w/new Ishino head gasket installed, 160 psi across the board Dished turbo pistons T3/T4 turbo .63 /.60 IC piping in 2.5" and eBay intercooler BOV NA cam N42 non egr intake 440cc Supra injectors Pallnet fuel rail +1 extra 240sx throttle body w/spacer + 1 extra spacer ZX I/R alternator MegaSquirt 1 on 3.57 board 3 row aluminum radiator + 1 extra Electric slim fan + 1 extra 3.90 rear end 5 speed trans AEM wideband sensor & digital gauge All new urethane bushings except the diff mount and tc rods Rear strut tower brace Spindle pins replaced with aftermarket Fair interior (no holes, nothing conspicuously missing) 1 year old quickie spray Mopar 70's Sublime Green body (jams and interior remain yellow), flat black vented 280Z hood BRE spook airdam and MSA spoiler The Good: Body is pretty straight, and mostly free of rust I actually got it tuned and dyno (despite the oil leaks) - and made 214whp and 250 lb of torque @ 10PSI Megasquirt Wired Properly for the Most Part Not much Rust besides Battery Tray The Bad: Rust/Leak in Fuel Tank Front Timing Chain Cover Cracked (Oil Leak) Oil Return Line Leaking Harmonic Balancer Chipped Interior in Really Rough Condition Stock Tach not Wired Up Repair Made on the battery Tray stopped rust but was fixed poorly Minor Rust Holes on Floor Boards most patched up Poor Paint Job I've already started breaking down the vehicle to clean it up a bit.
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