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Showing results for tags 'megasquirt'.
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I am having rpm loss and crank signal errors while cranking, and while running below roughly 1400 rpm. The car will start with some throttling and run great around or above 1400 rpms. Once I let off the throttle, the car will buck and die. While composite and teeth logging during cranking, I'm not seeing anything close to a proper tooth count, and the rising/falling edges look blocky. I'll attach both composite and teeth logs below as Excel and Megalog files as well as my TunerStudios file. I've confirmed the jumpers J1 and JP1 are correct for the Nissan CAS optical sensor. There is a 1k pu
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hi! I recently found out my engine has a knock sensor on it, unplugged and unsused. I have a megasquirt II ecu. I was wondering if anyone had managed to hook up the stock sensor to a MSII, or if I'd have to forget about it? thanks! s -
hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's es
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I took the red 12v wire that previously went to the 280zx's ECU, put a 1k resistor on it, then a 2 amp fuse. That wire then fed into pin 28 on the DB37 connector as it should. When the ECU is not plugged in and the car is on, the red wire gets 12V. However, when the ECU is plugged in, I end up getting 0.06 volts (this is checked at the pin coming off the female DB37 connector on the boards bottom side). I used the stock 280zx ECU grounds for the megasquirt grounds, with one unused MS ground remaining, of which i made my own ground point to the engine block. All sensors connecting
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to
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The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. An
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Where to install Electronic Boost Controller
AlbatrossCafe posted a topic in Ignition and Electrical
I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger -
Currently building an L28ET and I an looking to buy: 1. Megasquirt relay and cable (MSRelay-C / MSRelayCable) 2. 54 mm Optical Trigger Wheel for Nissan L28ET 3. 440cc Injectors 4. Fuel Rail, 11mm injector size Thank you!
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Are you a car enthusiast looking to get your foot in the door of the aftermarket racing parts industry? We build and sell racing fuel injection systems, and we're looking for a technical sales and service position. We are looking for someone with experience with installing and tuning tunable aftermarket fuel injection, even if the experience so far has just been on your own personal project or friends' cars rather than paid work. MegaSquirt or AMP EFI experience preferred. Here's what you will be doing. Entering phone orders and creating customer accounts. Helping customers de
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I have built and installed an MS3X system on a L28 turbo motor in a 260Z. I have it running, and idles, and am getting ready to get it out of the garage and drive it. I configured the tune from scratch and it is very rough. I am looking for someone with tuning experience to look over my tune and make suggestions or changes to get a safe, basic starting tune. Below is the engine specs, and I have attached my current tune. Thanks for any assistance! F54 block, dished pistons P79 head w/E30 cam - "B" stamp ARP head studs N42 non-EGR intake 440cc injectors LSx coil-on-pl
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This is the biggest sale we've had all year - and will probably be the biggest sale we have until next Thanksgiving. Use coupon code BF2017 to receive 10% off, starting now through November 28th. This code is good for anything in our inventory - MSPNPs, solder it yourself kits, the MS3Pro, Racepak or Aeromotive products, anything! Promo code cannot be used in conjunction with other codes or offers, cannot be applied to previous orders and expires automatically at midnight, 11/28/17 EST. Shop now
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Hello everyone. Not a huge issue here but just looking for some opinions. When my car is warmed up and idleing it cuts power to the fuel pump randomly and speratically. Occationally causing it to stall. It is only for a split second however sometimes it happens a few times in a row. If i rev it up by even 100 rpms it seems to go away. Im thinking either circuit board problems, bad settings, or bad connections
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I've been putting in alot of time in the garage trying to tuck and shave my bay along with installing megasquirt. My only question about the whole thing is, how am I to ground the million black wires? I've read NOT to ground them all in the same spot. I've also read NOT to solder them into a bigger wire and put it in a single location. But I HAVE heard that I should ground everything to my block. I'm currently wiring the injectors. Where do I ground this bundle of 6 black wires? Tha k you very much for your response. Sorry if this is in the wrong place or already posted. Still trying to
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Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs
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Hey guys. I guess I'll consider this a follow up thread from my last one here(http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124831-megasquirt-ignition-and-timing-problems/). The car cranks and runs. I don't think my MS is controlling the timing but it's producing the spark at the least. I've gone through the tests to check for my commanded timing and my actual timing with no luck. The timing on the crank is really sporadic at idle and the timing marks disappear and reappear when I increase the RPM. It seems wherever I adjust my dizzy manually, is where it stays at during idle. The stock dizzy on 85T v
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Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btd
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Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new
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Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx t
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I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks
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Hello i am new to this forum but i hope to get some opinions. I have fully restored my 260z and it is mostly stock, i recently bought and rebuilt a l28et. now that the engine is done i am moving to the wiring and i come to realise that i do not have the proper wiring harness. The guy i got the engine from gave me everything he had. by the looks of it i have a 82 l28 ecu and harness, a later 70's wiring harness slightly cut up, and the correct 82 l28et ecu. Should i bother with the stock ECCS and make a harness or should i buy a megasquirt. The megasquirt is tempting but im one to save a dollar
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Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRA
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This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.
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Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there
