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I am having rpm loss and crank signal errors while cranking, and while running below roughly 1400 rpm. The car will start with some throttling and run great around or above 1400 rpms. Once I let off the throttle, the car will buck and die. While composite and teeth logging during cranking, I'm not seeing anything close to a proper tooth count, and the rising/falling edges look blocky. I'll attach both composite and teeth logs below as Excel and Megalog files as well as my TunerStudios file. I've confirmed the jumpers J1 and JP1 are correct for the Nissan CAS optical sensor. There is a 1k pullup resistor wired from the injector 12v to the white(pin24 i believe) crank sensor signal. I've readjusted the R52 and R56 pots according to the manual. I read 2.39v at the top of R54 and can't seem to get it any higher while turning R56 clockwise. I have had the car running well previously and I decided to upgrade the fuel system and reroute some wiring to clean it up a bit and am now having these issues. My hardware and settings are as follows: MS2 V3.57 board with a BIP373 transistor 3.4.2 firmware Nissan CAS optical sensor with the DIY 12-1 toothed wheel Single nissan ignition coil -Falling Edge -Going high -Single coil -JS10 (jumped to igbtin within board) Wiring is per MS2 v3.57 schematics. CAS power is fed from an unused relay terminal. No Idle valve 1050x hi z injectors walbro 255lph fuel pump BCPR6E-11 resistor spark plugs and NGK wires I've confirmed the MS has 12v+ and both power and ground leads are good with <0.2 ohms respectively. I've tried moving the MS grounds around the engine bay, from the heads to the intake manifold to the firewall. I get the same measured resistance across each ground position. There was no change in the messy signal. I then tried isolating the noise by: disconnecting the coil. No change. separated the shielded wire from the injector wires. No change (Note: the only un-shielded portion of wire for the crank sensor is where I connected the wires to the stock CAS and for the pull up resistor from the +12v injector wire). Unable to find any noise reduction from obvious *loud* wires, I then readjusted the hysteresis and trigger voltage pots R52 and R56. No change Then within tunerstudios, I introduced 25% noise filtering at .1ms and I can see what seems to be some semblance of square waves. The tooth log still looks as ugly as it did with or without filtering. I'm considering changing out the CAS with a fresh one as I have no way of testing whether its malfunctioning or not. I would prefer not having any noise filtration if that's even possible. I don't like the idea of putting a bandaid over bad wiring. Thank you! Z31 1.msq cranking tooth logger.mlg cranking tooth logger.csv cranking composite logger.csv cranking composite logger.mlg

hi! I recently found out my engine has a knock sensor on it, unplugged and unsused. I have a megasquirt II ecu. I was wondering if anyone had managed to hook up the stock sensor to a MSII, or if I'd have to forget about it? thanks! s

hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb

I took the red 12v wire that previously went to the 280zx's ECU, put a 1k resistor on it, then a 2 amp fuse. That wire then fed into pin 28 on the DB37 connector as it should. When the ECU is not plugged in and the car is on, the red wire gets 12V. However, when the ECU is plugged in, I end up getting 0.06 volts (this is checked at the pin coming off the female DB37 connector on the boards bottom side). I used the stock 280zx ECU grounds for the megasquirt grounds, with one unused MS ground remaining, of which i made my own ground point to the engine block. All sensors connecting to MS are unplugged. The injectors send 12V in the pins 32 to 35, the daughtercard is out, and I took out D10 to see if anyplace after U5 was leaking the power somehow. D10 before I took it out still had only 0.06V to both ends. Voltage to C15 is also 0.06 - 0.07V on both ends, and I dont have a C30 installed. Left pin on U5 (when D10 was in) was same as D10, so no burnt trace. Even if the board was fried i figure that I would atleast get the voltage from the stock red wire.

🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?

🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?

🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?

The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. Any advice would be amazing.

I have a couple questions about my electronic boost controller that I am using with MegaSquirt. The EBC has 3 ports. I assume 2 are input/output for the vacuum line and the 3rd is actually the air that vents to atmosphere? Does which port you use matter? See pic #1. Can I install it behind the heat shield here (on the master cylinder side - see pic #2)? If not, where is typical? If I install it here, is the "vent to atmosphere" gas gonna be too hot for the master cylinder or is that amount insignificant? The tube coming out of the turbo/wastegate is much larger than the one going into the EBC - how should I best address this step down and step up in size without a ton of awkward connections? EBC (#1): Install Location (#2): Hose to wastegate is different size than EBC connection (#4):

Currently building an L28ET and I an looking to buy: 1. Megasquirt relay and cable (MSRelay-C / MSRelayCable) 2. 54 mm Optical Trigger Wheel for Nissan L28ET 3. 440cc Injectors 4. Fuel Rail, 11mm injector size Thank you!

Are you a car enthusiast looking to get your foot in the door of the aftermarket racing parts industry? We build and sell racing fuel injection systems, and we're looking for a technical sales and service position. We are looking for someone with experience with installing and tuning tunable aftermarket fuel injection, even if the experience so far has just been on your own personal project or friends' cars rather than paid work. MegaSquirt or AMP EFI experience preferred. Here's what you will be doing. Entering phone orders and creating customer accounts. Helping customers determine which of our products are needed for their projects. Provide technical support for installing and tuning fuel injection systems, by phone, email, and social media. Set up and process returns, including some troubleshooting of returned electronics. Install and test new products and other R&D work alongside our engineering staff. Collect marketing data, bug reports, and other information from customers. Represent our company at trade shows, racing events, and other events. And other tasks as needed - we're a small company, so employees are expected to wear many hats. You might need to help fill in for production, shipping, or product testing if somebody is absent, for example. And here are the skills we need you to have for this job. Experience with installing and tuning aftermarket tunable fuel injection systems. MegaSquirt / AMP EFI preferred. Dyno tuning experience is not required. Good communications skills - in person, over the phone, and in writing. The ability to remain polite, even with difficult customers. Basic computer literacy, and the ability to help customers who don't have this. Familiarity with common race car modifications and the ability to install at least basic bolt on parts. Understanding of electronics and wiring diagrams. We'd prefer if you can also understand schematic drawings of circuit boards. Being able to diagnose and repair circuit boards is a plus, but not required. This is mostly a 40 hour a week office job, but there is some travel (less than 10% of the time), and occasional weekend or after hours work. If you're interested, please email a resume, cover letter, and salary requirements to ben@diyautotune.com. Job location is in Gainesville, Georgia, USA.

I have built and installed an MS3X system on a L28 turbo motor in a 260Z. I have it running, and idles, and am getting ready to get it out of the garage and drive it. I configured the tune from scratch and it is very rough. I am looking for someone with tuning experience to look over my tune and make suggestions or changes to get a safe, basic starting tune. Below is the engine specs, and I have attached my current tune. Thanks for any assistance! F54 block, dished pistons P79 head w/E30 cam - "B" stamp ARP head studs N42 non-EGR intake 440cc injectors LSx coil-on-plug T3/T4E 50 Trim with .63 AR (best that I can determine, Craigslist deal) Intercooler - 11x17x2.5 60mm 240sx throttle body 280ZXT fuel pump & FPR MS3X running sequential DIY Auto CAS Disc in 280ZXT dist Innovate LC2 AFR 2 1/2" to 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust ?? BOV Vintage Air a/c No idle control, yet No boost control, yet No oil cooler A couple of items in particular I have questions about is that I have under basic settings, 1 squirt per cycle; I have seen other setups where this is configured for 2. I also would like to use idle timing advance for warm up, and for when the A/C is on. CurrentTune.msq

This is the biggest sale we've had all year - and will probably be the biggest sale we have until next Thanksgiving. Use coupon code BF2017 to receive 10% off, starting now through November 28th. This code is good for anything in our inventory - MSPNPs, solder it yourself kits, the MS3Pro, Racepak or Aeromotive products, anything! Promo code cannot be used in conjunction with other codes or offers, cannot be applied to previous orders and expires automatically at midnight, 11/28/17 EST. Shop now

Hello everyone. Not a huge issue here but just looking for some opinions. When my car is warmed up and idleing it cuts power to the fuel pump randomly and speratically. Occationally causing it to stall. It is only for a split second however sometimes it happens a few times in a row. If i rev it up by even 100 rpms it seems to go away. Im thinking either circuit board problems, bad settings, or bad connections

I've been putting in alot of time in the garage trying to tuck and shave my bay along with installing megasquirt. My only question about the whole thing is, how am I to ground the million black wires? I've read NOT to ground them all in the same spot. I've also read NOT to solder them into a bigger wire and put it in a single location. But I HAVE heard that I should ground everything to my block. I'm currently wiring the injectors. Where do I ground this bundle of 6 black wires? Tha k you very much for your response. Sorry if this is in the wrong place or already posted. Still trying to figure out forums.

Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs. The datalog labeled IDLE(not idle1 or idle2) is when the car had the idle valves on the car but not wired up to anything. The others are without the idle valves. My injector PW seems very jumpy as well as the dead time. I have them grounded directly to the MS. They are low z injectors so I chose to limit the current in TunerStudios instead of using drop resistors. I made sure no ground wire or sensor wire was in contact with any noise issues(dizzy, spark plug wires, coil). I messed with the ASE and WUE to try and stabalize my afr's and keep the damn thing running, but I've had no luck with it so far. I have an MS2/Extra v3.57 Firmware 3.3.0 straight from DIY. CurrentTune1.zip idle.zip idle1.zip idle3.zip

Hey guys. I guess I'll consider this a follow up thread from my last one here(http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124831-megasquirt-ignition-and-timing-problems/). The car cranks and runs. I don't think my MS is controlling the timing but it's producing the spark at the least. I've gone through the tests to check for my commanded timing and my actual timing with no luck. The timing on the crank is really sporadic at idle and the timing marks disappear and reappear when I increase the RPM. It seems wherever I adjust my dizzy manually, is where it stays at during idle. The stock dizzy on 85T vg's is electronically controlled. Could my stock ECU be interrupting the MS's signal? (I haven't gotten around to going completely standalone YET, but I'm taking this one step at a time). I've got the car running which is a big step, but I've got no timing control, either in "fixed advance" or "use table". I burn and cycle the ecu whenever I'm prompted to. I've hit a wall with this. Hardware Pin 36 connected to the ?signal wire? on the stock power transistor. (I've tried all the other wires going to the coil, and this one is the only one that seems to work. It's the G/B wire) Pin 24 is connected to the CAS correctly because I am getting an RPM reading on the dash and in Tuner Studios. (It's also really sporadic) I have the B&G prebuilt MS2 v3.57 with 3.3.0 firmware from DIY Stock dizzy and ignition coil + power transistor DIY Nissan Optical trigger wheel Here is a datalog while idling and my current tune. I've got the tooth/composite/trigger logs but they are .csv files so they aren't of much use. I still haven't really figured out how to troubleshoot with the datalogs, maybe one day. Thanks zx2.zip CurrentTune.zip

Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btdc because it was running so rough. The car was running very rich and was backfiring with every change in throttle. i assume the ignition settings might be wrong and the fuel map is too rich. ive scaled down the fuel map and it didnt seem to change much at all. could their possibly be other more hidden settings that i also have to change. Today i tried to start it and it just kept flooding itself no matter what spark settings i change or if i scale down the fuel map. Im new to this type of stuff so any help is apreciated. ive been researching so much and tried so many things but nothing is working. thankyou.

Hey guys, I just joined HybridZ and this is my first post! I also just joined the Datsun club by buying a 280z not too long ago. It is a 77' 280z, L28 all that good stuff I guess, but it's turbo converted... or rather almost. So, I bought and the turbo conversion is almost complete according to him it just needs tuning, wiring, & a finished down pipe. I have no idea where to begin, I have a picture of the megasquirt 2 EMS, the wideband, & the harness I assume. I also have a ton of wires underneath the the steering wheel which he said was useless and that I should make a new one. I am new to things like megasquirt and tuning so I'm not too sure where I should begin at all, if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks.

Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx throttle body and tps, walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, i have bypassed the fuel pressure regulator for now as it wasnt allowing fuel though. I have messed arounf with some other maps i found on the forum but none of them are perfect. I want to say my firmware is the latest for ms2 extra. i belive i have the pcb 3.0. i will atatch the tune i found and am looking thru. Anything helps thankyou. CurrentTune.zip

I have just finished assembling my MS2 for my 82 l28et. The megamanual explains how to do the final testing. and none of the three ms2 LED's light up like it says they should. i am almost positive i didnt make any mistake assembing the last section. on tunerstudio i currently get all gauges reading from operating the stimulator. the stim has fuel pump light on and i1, i2 flickering. anyone have any ideas. i want to get this swap done !! thanks

Hello i am new to this forum but i hope to get some opinions. I have fully restored my 260z and it is mostly stock, i recently bought and rebuilt a l28et. now that the engine is done i am moving to the wiring and i come to realise that i do not have the proper wiring harness. The guy i got the engine from gave me everything he had. by the looks of it i have a 82 l28 ecu and harness, a later 70's wiring harness slightly cut up, and the correct 82 l28et ecu. Should i bother with the stock ECCS and make a harness or should i buy a megasquirt. The megasquirt is tempting but im one to save a dollar. the megasquirt seems very complicated for my liking. if anyone has an 82 l28et harness i need it. My hope is to finish this swap before april. thankyou

Hello everyone my name is luke and i have a 74 Datsun 260z l28et project that I'm going to be documenting my progress on . I swapped an 81 l28et into it and am currently doing a Vems v3.7 install. I want to make a thorough write up to make standalone install on these motors (or in general) easy to understand. In my setup my motor is mostly stock except for the Vems, a straight exhaust and the common deletes (egr,ac, etc...) In this write up I will cover the basic aspects of engine management. Crank/cam sensors, injectors, ignition, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and O2/egt sensor CRANK SENSOR- for my crank sensor I will experiment with using the stock 81 l28et toothed CAS wheel (90 tooth) with a retrofit VR sensor as this is what my Vems is configured for. the setup picks up a signal on cranking but i have not yet ran the car on it. INJECTORS- the injectors I am using are the stock l28et injectors. These are low impedance (ohm) and there are 2 ways to drive these injectors. This is general and applies to most if not all ECU's from MS to Vems to Electromotive. The first and more preferred way to drive low z injectors is PWM (pulse width modulation) this modulates current during injector hold (open) time to prevent injectors from overheating (with this method the you don't use inline resistors). The second method which I am doing is to run inline resistors on every injector and drive them as you would normal high z injectors. L28et injectors are approximately 2.2-2.3 ohms and I will be running a 50w 6ohm heatsink resistor inline on each injector. I will be putting the resistors on the ground(computer) side of the injectors . They will be mounted in the car near the ECU. Injectors are wired independently for sequential injection. TPS- in my setup I use a GM TPS 5v 3 wire. most TPS that are continuous not switch type will work. The stock one i believe is a 3 position switch. this will not work. I made 2 small brackets to mount it to the l28et throttle body. IAT- for my intake air temperature sensor I also used a GM IAT. It may be tricky to find a good spot to mount it keep in mind it has to be in the manifold area (after the turbo). MAP- for my manifold air pressure sensor I simply used the supplied Vems internal sensor. My pre assembled Vems unit has an internal 3-bar MAP sensor. There is a vacuum hose output on the ECU that is ran to a port on the intake manifold. Very convenient and simple. IGNITION- for my ignition setup I will be using a single coil ran through the stock dizzy. I will experiment with using the internal Vems igniter and using the stock l28et coil/igniter. Coil has +batt on one side and the other ground side goes right in the computer (coil-0) this is the simplest setup. In the future I plan on goin coil on plug or do a 3 coil setup. If you are doing a coil on plug setup you have to remember it's going to be waste spark Unless you have a cam position sensor (which simply indexes whether the motor is on exhaust or compression stroke). CTS- I have not decided on what coolant temp sensor I'm going to use Yet. The stock one is a 1 wire and I believe is useless. I believe GM sensors have the same size/thread. I will experiment with CTS and let you guys know what fits into my thermostat housing. O2 - For the oxygen sensor I will remove the old 1 wire sensor which is also useless and use a Bosch Wideband sensor. i believe The particular Bosch o2 is somewhat specific to Vems and I believe can even be used from any Audi/vw 1.8t. Wideband O2 sensors are essential in tuning a car. Vems have built in Wideband controllers so all I will need is the sensor which is under 100$. please correct me if any of my information is wrong. i anticipate to do the first start in about 1-2 weeks. i will continue to keep everyone updated and hopefully post some pictures soon.

This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.

Hi guys. I have a 1983 280zx, modified by the guy who sold it to me. Rebuilt engine, T3/T4 turbo, front mount intercooler, blow-off valve, megasquirt… The air filter was located behind the driver side headlight, which is good for protecting it from dust and rocks (and it gets fresh air through holes in the radiator mount for intercooler piping) but it breathes gross hot air when stopped or doing city driving (upwards from 120 degrees Farenheght)). See photo for details. It was supposed to need nothing but megasquirt tuning, but the more I play with it, the more I think there are other issues (I think not all the injectors work well amongst other things). I’m also new to the turbo thing, only having had stock NA engines before. The issue that brings me here today is that I am embarking on a cold air intake build (I plan on building a scoop that goes under the rad and maybe back up in front of it (no more room to go through the rad supports as the weird intercooler has both in and out on the same side, that side), with the filter in an isolated box between the rad and the engine. See upcoming post with air pressure and temperature tests...) and also am looking into isolating my intake piping (see other posts on that, with data too). I don’t want to build things that are useless, so I started taking data before so I can compare before and after. I’ve been measuring and comparing temperatures under various situations and came to the realisation that I might have a problem (not sure, thus the post). If I cruise on the highway at steady speed (say 75mph), I get steady temperature: today at ambient 82 degrees, I got 90 degrees at the air filter, and 120-130 degrees at the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor (I don’t actually know where the guy put that sensor. Any clues?). I’m not certain how good this is, but it does not seems too too bad (still not happy that I’m gaining 65-85 degrees WITH an intercooler under very little load and high air flow. Opinions?). The potential problem occurs as soon as I lift of the gas. If I lift off a little, say to slow down to 60mph(without de-clutching), the temperature climb real quick to 155-175 degrees AIT, while everything else stays the same (air filter temp, RPMs, air flow…). If I completely let go of the gas (without declutching), the AIT skyrockets to 190-215 degrees. In both cases, the temps stay high for a while and only then decrease slowly (unless I give it gas, at which point they go back down quick enough I guess). If I let go of the gas but immediately de-clutch and stay in neutral, the temperature goes up to 150-165, but then comes back down on its own quick enough. I thinking the really high temperature I see when I don’t de-clutch might be a combination of A) slower moving air that gets to take the time to absorb more heat and B ) the fact that, because the engine is working still, there is a significant amount of exhaust that might make the turbo work and thus heat up the air. But how come the intercooler wouldn’t be making up for that? So, is that temp spike normal(ish)? Should I be worried? Any explanations?