rayaapp2 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 I have a good sized sheet of aircraft aluminum laying around that a friend dropped off with me. Ive used it to make a belly pan for my 260z RB project. There was enough left over from the front pan that I decided that while I wasnt to busy today that Id make a heat shield for my triple Mikunis. I have a Mikuni manifold with some 40 DCOE Solex Mikuni carbs and a Greddy/Trust/Nismo whoever header. I spent a little time getting the fitment right near the manifold flanges. I cut and bent the ends to make tabs that would guide the heat away from the intake even near the top flanges that is. So I cut and bent little tabs to clear that hard to reach areas. I made up 3 mounts from bits of aluminum and steal I had around from other projects. So its wedged in near the manifold flanges and hung by 3 mounts that mount to the sides of each carb. Then as many have suggested with their own adaptations I bent the edges down and rivited them together for strength. It seems to be pretty ridged and doesnt rattle around so Im happy with it. They only step I didnt/havent taken is some sort of heat insulation for the bottom of the shield. The engine is on the stand and currently so its not a big deal that it isnt finished yet. In fact the long block isnt even the one Im going to use, but it worked well for mockup purposes of both manifolds. I pickup the new bottom end tomorrow and the head currently on the car will be used. Anyway check these out. Id appreciate any input you guys might have. Garage was dark and the sun was out so they arent the best pictures but you can make it out well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 So you just wedged the side closest to the engine in place? I think that would rattle as soon as the engine starts up. You should consider packing the bottom with come heat resistant wrap or something to make it even more heat resistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 So you just wedged the side closest to the engine in place? I think that would rattle as soon as the engine starts up. You should consider packing the bottom with come heat resistant wrap or something to make it even more heat resistant. Its not wedged so much as it is pinned with a spider web of tabs between the manifolds. Ill get a good pic of the underside and between tomorrow when I have a chance. You'll see its more than wedged in there. There is still a chance it might rattle, but I cant get a rattle out of it while I cleaned it up or pounded on it with a hammer. Seems pretty solid. I really would like to pack the bottom with something. I just dont have anything laying around that would work with any success. I will have to make a trip in to town and see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 I (cough) got a couple of yards (cough) of as (cough) bestos laying around (cough) this place somewhere (cough) come on down (cough) and maybe I can dig it out (cough) blow the dust off of it (cough) and give you a couple of pieces! (cough) My die grinder with a cutting disc (cough) works wonders on it (cough) makes a nice (cough) clean (cough) cut (cough, hack!) but raises a bit of (cough, wheeze, hack hack hack!) dust in the process... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 I (cough) got a couple of yards (cough) of as (cough) bestos laying around (cough) this place somewhere (cough) come on down (cough) and maybe I can dig it out (cough) blow the dust off of it (cough) and give you a couple of pieces! (cough) My die grinder with a cutting disc (cough) works wonders on it (cough) makes a nice (cough) clean (cough) cut (cough, hack!) but raises a bit of (cough, wheeze, hack hack hack!) dust in the process... You would not have to worry about it, well not for 20 - 25 years.. not a nice way to die.. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 How long have I owned a Z? Since 1985? D'OH! My work colleague is already receiving 'settlement money' from his time aboard ships with asbestos lagging on the pipes. I guess military service doesn't count. Or all those acoustic tiles we used to chuck our pencils into in elementary school! Or those years working the brake arcing machine at the GM Dealership...hey I was underage, it doesn't count! And now...working regularly in China? Oh yeah, there's NO asbestos in THOSE plants! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 My shield is wedged in place as well. No rattles. My parents house is sided with asbestos shingles. I need to cut a hole through it for a dryer hose in a couple of days. I think I'll just hold my breath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 My shield is wedged in place as well. No rattles. My parents house is sided with asbestos shingles. I need to cut a hole through it for a dryer hose in a couple of days. I think I'll just hold my breath. use water to stop the dust, but don't electrocute yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Its all around Folsom ca just naturally occuring in the ground. While I lived up in the Sacramento area I was near Folsom in Rancho. I hadnt realized it came out of the ground and was a naturally occuring thing. Its neat stuff. I think Id rather pickup smoking though... lol At least there is pleasure associated with the risk. Come to think of it, Every house Ive lived in except my parents last house when I was younger has had asbestos in it. Ahh cripes. I may head down to SoCal this summer. If I do Ill be sure to send you an email or call you Tony. If not for some coughing material then at least to drop off a Proto Ratchet, 10mm stubby socket, and say hi. Hopefully I catch you at a time when your in town. Ill get some better pictures later today. Ray A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff260z Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Nice. I have a bunch of stainless sheet. I just may have to make one as well. Thanks for the inspiration. Gonna try copy this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Ray, in the process of making my CAI and heat sheild. I have been looking at yours and wonder if your accelerator pump linkages hit the pan? My set-up is similiar but I had to punch some holes so the pump linkages would clear for WOT. Nice job getting the pan all the way under the intake. I didn't take mine that far, but will add some double side insulation on top of the pan and run it all the way to the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I found it very difficult to get my heat shield to go all the way to the head under the intakes. I'm considering some heat wrap material around the individual runners. Any negative results from wrapping the intake runners completely or should I just wrap them half way around the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt 78Z Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I used the stock heat shield from a 78 by cutting the outer edge off. This left me with the already formed head/intake side. From there I riveted stainless sheet to extend it out all the way beyond the carbs. It then takes a 90 down to the frame rail. Effectively blocking the header from the carbs and brake lines. Pretty much you can't see my header, unless looking straight in from the front. The head/intake stock shield is simply wedged in and very tight. I did cut a slot on each end at the head side and use worm clamps to clamp the shield to the 1st and last header primary tube. No part of it touch's the carbs. The lower portion is actually secured to the frame rail, spaced out a bit via some silicone washers. My carbs stay cool to the touch, you can rest your hand on the bottom of them after running it for hours. I have no rattles and it's been this way for 10 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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