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New exhaust pics


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Well, I went pretty budget on most of this LS1 build, but decided I wasn't talented enough to make my own exhaust and know a guy locally here in MN that does some kicka$$ metal fabrication work. We did a mild steel mandrel bent system which he TIG welded together with some nice sturdy flanges. I also wanted a different look to the rear, and had him close off the factory opening and had made room with the tank pretty far forward to do a center exhaust. Now that I have this spendy and purty exhaust I have it in to be ceramic coated satin black, should look good and hopefully not rust. I should be taking my first drive in June, and having worked three years to get to this point, it's about time. I went with the X-pipe and Magnaflows based on listening at a number of sites of recorded LS sounds. Though I haven't heard it yet as my dash is out along with part of the wiring harness.

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Thanks for the comments on the exhaust. I can't be proud, all I did was write a check.

 

Regarding the tank: I went to a ton of trouble trying to make the factory Trans Am tank work because of $$ and also because I wanted a factory style in-tank pump. But that turned out to be a heavy, ugly, non-symmetric deal with not much exhaust or fuel filler pipe room. Google pointed me in the direction of Tanks Inc. here in MN, (320) 558-6882 who make a universal tank, P/N USPT-G-H along with the P/N UMS universal mounting straps and P/N PA-4 250 GPH in-tank pump. Tank was $215, pump was $210. Pretty straightforward, using the usual Vette filter/regulator and a Painless pump relay kit. The tank holds approx. 15 gallons.

 

Here are some pics of the mounting, pump and fuel level sender. It's all in the car now, worked exactly as planned, started on the first twist,though since I haven't driven it yet, I guess it's possible I could run into a fuel starvation thing maybe. They do provide sort of a well internally around the pump pickup so I hope that's good enough. The factory filler neck lines up pretty well, with some adaptation courtesy of some welded exhaust pipe adapter pieces. In the pics you can see the forward hanger mounts that I spent way too much time on, along with the stainless hard line I ran from the filter/regulator all the way up front to the fuel rail inlet. I had previously removed the spare tire well and welded in some flat steel sheet, and I cut holes in the top in case I need to access the pump or sender. I still need to figure out what to do with the tank and pump vent lines. I've heard of people doing a charcoal filter right on the end of the line, not sure yet how to handle it.

 

Glad to offer up an option to the Z community that has been so helpful to me during this build.

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Good info on the tank and definitely a nice exhaust. I just had a similar exhaust system done on my 260, but without the mandrel bends. I wanted to do the mandrel bends, but that made it considerably more expensive.

 

Very cool.

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  • 1 year later...

Several checks, first to get the mandrel bends, then to have the guy do the work, added up to a little over $1000. Keep in mind he also closed up the original exhaust hole and modeled up a nice sort of flanged center outlet for that cost.

 

I'll do a writeup soon on my LS conversion. I won't re-hash the stuff other guys did that paved the way for me, but rather just the unique stuff I did to get by certain obstacles that hopefully would be useful to others. Car is driving, but still have nagging drivetrain noise and vibration from the driveshaft or diff. Changing back and forth from CV shafts to original 280 U-joint shafts haven't made a difference. Going away from my poly diff mounts and back to rubber to see if that helps, fingers crossed.

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Car is driving, but still have nagging drivetrain noise and vibration from the driveshaft or diff. Changing back and forth from CV shafts to original 280 U-joint shafts haven't made a difference. Going away from my poly diff mounts and back to rubber to see if that helps, fingers crossed.

 

Where in the rpm /mph range is your vibration? T56's are notorious for the 5/6 gear vibe. Mine pulses pretty bad in 5/6 around 80, but if you drop it in 4th, it goes away. I thought I had issues with alignment or balance as well at first. If thats the case, then it can be fixed for like $150, if you have the tranny torn down. It has to do with the size of the main shaft where the 5/6 gear is pressed on.

 

I did get rid of a bunch of noise when i went from u-joints to cv shafts, however. Plus I'm not afraid to beat on it now :P

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The vibration starts to come in at about 65 mph and it doesn't matter if I'm in gear or coasting. i haven't tried 4th gear to see if it's the gearbox. There was a bit of backlash in my boneyard 300zx turbo cv shafts so to test I put the stock 280z U-joint shafts back in. Backlash went away but the high frequency vibe is still there. I'll start a new thread in the Drivetrain section once I've tried the new rubber bushings and had the driveshaft shop check out the shaft I got new from JCI.

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