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After 3 years, I am heading to the dyno on the 5th

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Right now as it is, the car is 98% done. Its up and running, just finished up my keyless entry/alarm install since I shaved the keyholes on the door. For my car to be done I just have this left to do


-Get a working boost controller, up the boost do 3 baselines on the dyno and hope to clear 490whp

-Tint the windows

-Pick up either 26" or 24.5" slicks

-Get my fender mirrors polished and mounted

-Install JEGS cage

-Aftermarket steering wheel

-4 Point harnesses


That would make my car done, and if I'm not happy with about 490whp, plan is to go 1600cc injectors, run e85 and 30psi of boost. Its unlikely that I will switch to e85.


Plans down the far road include an RB build with a gt4780.


But thanks for the check up, hows your car doing?

Edited by mr jdm
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I'll have a few more weeks ahead of me. Everything is at the machine shop. I asked them to groove out the main journals so I can use GTiR bearing instead. Aside from that everything else is good. Just waiting on the machine work and then we'll assemble everything and get the motor put back in.


I was wondering though. Do you know anything about the oil pumps? I am going to get a s15 oil pump this time around and just drill out that one extra hole. I read up on the GTiR pump but it seems like a lot more work is involved and you need that spacer from JTW (which is discontinued now??). So I don't want to take any more chances and kill myself for going over my head and trying something else that wasn't planned.. Your thoughts?

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Since you told me you track your car on the road course and how much you have invested in it, which I understand :D


You have gone with top notch parts in every aspect of your build. My opinion is if your going to stay with the road course, I would go with a dry sump system with an oil cooler. (not sure if you have a cooler already)


Here is a setup one of my friends made on his sr20 a few years back, if your interested I can get some details on it.




If that is overkill, I know that the sr20VE oil pumps are very good pumps. I know the front cover will not fit the RWD block, but you might be able to install the actual VE PUMP into the RWD timing chain cover.


Another option is shimming the pump, I personally would be against it but I have no experience with that and not enough research from reliable people. You might have to look into that yourself.

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Jesus.. that looks killer.. I can't afford a dry sump at this time but I am going to run an oil cooler setup.


I looked up shimming the oil pump and I can do that fairly easily with the s15 oil pump. I looked up the VE pump but it's still confusing and not enough people are able to answer my questions so I am hesitant to go that route.


After researching the sr20ve build I think I'll have to suck it up one more time before I'm done (with the car scene or whatever it may be) and do a full sr23vet build. I think it offically a bucket list item for me now! Hahaha


If you can find out from your buddy what the sump kit cost him in total? I looked around and it seemed to be in the 3-4k range?

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  • 1 month later...

I still have to get back to you on how much he did it for, hes the kind of friend we only talk once in a while.


Anyways, the car is a blast to drive, but I'm on a new mission.


I'm adding some more fuel , running e85, 30psi of boost, stock bottom end, and hoping to break the stock bottom end record. Which right now is about 600whp.


I would like to squeeze out 650 whp on 30 psi, e85, and a 8-8200 rpm redline.


Hopefully it works out, if not, I have a spare fully built motor with a VE head getting ready to go in. :D


Dyno Results shortly

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I/c Piping


Buy some straight and U bends, measure,cut, weld


Radiator hoses???


Many options, stainless steel bradied, or 1.5" steel piping welded with couplers, or rubber from the parts store


I never had the intentions of having heat in my car, almost 90% of my coolant ports are capped off.

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  • 11 months later...

Bump, car ran great and was fun to drive. Just recently installed my VE head. Just need to build and intake manifold and button up a few things and then head back to the dyno.


Also, anybody with an sr20det Z, my original intake manifold is for sale. It is pictured on the first page. Intake manifold only for sale, if you want you can pick up the 100mm throttle body I use with it on ebay. I am looking for 165 shipped for the manifold. It is cast aluminum with protruding velocity stacks.




Can't wait to see the numbers with the VE head installed

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Good god finally. I checked back here a few times in the year and was sad that there weren't any updates. I'm glad to see you're up and running. I'd love to pick up the manifold but I can't right now. I have a track day coming up in Nov. and I'm trying to get the track hatch ready before then. But I'm curious, does the intake manifold have the same bolt up locations at the stock manifold. If it does then that'll work in my favor. I really wanted to grab a MazWorx intake mani but they are pricey and your looks very similar.


Please keep us posted I love seeing your build. I plan to do a SR24VET in a S14 some day so this will be very beneficial to see you do.

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This is the exact setup on my car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-NISSAN-SILVIA-S14-S15-SR20DET-SR20-/230851320397?hash=item35bfcf9a4d&item=230851320397&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr ***


***** But the s13 version, no the s14


My manifold is a direct bolt on for sr20.

The IACV is welded SHUT ( I cracked my throttle open and my car idled a SOLID 900 rpm, that is no exaggeration, a perfect, no fluctuation, 900 RPM)

2 Of the ports are welded shut, so you have 2 1/8 NPT and 1 1/4 NPT

There is a bracket for a LOKAR throttle cable


I believe this is the throttle body you would need to buy if you bought my manifold




165 shipped for the manifold, spent a 100 on a 100mm throttle body, and you have yourself a good setup for the price.

Edited by mr jdm
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