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zbloke

Adjustable ARB

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Guys,

 

I'm thinking of making my OEM front ARB adjustable, the way I'd like to do this is drill 3 or 4 holes horizontally in the bar then have a drop link, male and female rod end bearings, attaching to a clevis on the lower arm.

 

Question is, would drilling the ARB weaken it significantly and assuming the bar is hardened or tempered would I even be able to drill it?

 

Is the method of shortening and then welding a flat plate to the bar a better/safer/stronger option?

 

Opinions please

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Besides figuring out how you want to do this, may I ask why? Any adjustability added to a stock ARB by drilling holes will decrease roll stiffness from stock levels. Is this the result you're looking for? It would probably be easier and more effective to buy/make an adjustable bar which has a roll stiffness range from below stock to above stock.

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Besides figuring out how you want to do this, may I ask why? Any adjustability added to a stock ARB by drilling holes will decrease roll stiffness from stock levels. Is this the result you're looking for? It would probably be easier and more effective to buy/make an adjustable bar which has a roll stiffness range from below stock to above stock.

 

Interesting, I was under the impression that if you moved the attachment point of the drop link furthur away from the end of the bar it would increase the roll stiffness, even on a stock diameter bar?

 

I could always have a thicker tube or bar bent to shape and made adjustable if thats the best way forward

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Interesting, I was under the impression that if you moved the attachment point of the drop link furthur away from the end of the bar it would increase the roll stiffness, even on a stock diameter bar?

 

I could always have a thicker tube or bar bent to shape and made adjustable if thats the best way forward

 

Sorry, I guess I didn't fully understand your plan. Yes, moving the end-link further from the end will increase roll-stiffness. However, I would probably put the effort into adapting an adjustable bar instead of playing with the stock one.

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Sorry, I guess I didn't fully understand your plan. Yes, moving the end-link further from the end will increase roll-stiffness. However, I would probably put the effort into adapting an adjustable bar instead of playing with the stock one.

 

No worries, I should have made my intentions a bit clearer in my original post.

 

I'd like to go a bit stiffer on the front ARB but not overly stiff, reading things on here has led me to believe too stiff can be just as bad as not stiff enough, hence my intention to be cheap and cheerful with drilling the OEM bar, if this takes me in the right direction I'll consider having something made properly

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If you change the link pivot point on the ARB then it won't line up with the point on the LCA. What diameter ARB do you have and is a stiffer one available as a replacement?

 

I've currently got the OEM diameter front bar for a UK spec 240Z, I believe its 23mm, stiffer ones are available but in light of what I've read on here I don't want to go too stiff in one go but would like to try something adjustable first, drilling holes, making a clevis and sourcing the rod end bearings is an easy, cheap option for me........if the bar can be drilled?

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Ok, so having a strip welded to the ARB is the way forward, I can cope with that too :-)

 

What are the advantages of having the drop link attached to the strut and not the bottom arm? I don't remember reading anything on that mod when I was searching the forum recently

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If you wanted to go custom there are three piece bars made with a straight bar and aluminum arms on the ends available in different lengths with multiple mounting holes , they are made to do exactly what you are refering to

 

A link would be handy.

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A link would be handy.

 

 

 

Here's one , his name is Dean he does a lot of 4x4 stuff but not limited to 4x4 he also does cryo treatment on just about anything .

There are other fabrication parts manufactures with similar setups that are made to be custom adapted to fit with different bar lengths and arm lengths, many have multiple link mount holes on the arms for quick and easy changes and Dean would make them with whatever you want

http://www.kickassoffroad.com/kick_ass_offroad_final_007.htm

Edited by Robzzzz

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That's basically how I did mine too. Another benefit of attaching the link to the strut is that it can be a lot longer, and this makes that angularity of the end link less of a factor. If you're running a short end link you need to have a way to move the connection on the control arm also, otherwise the end link could get so misaligned that it could bottom out, and that angle on the end link affects its rate as well, so keeping them relatively upright is a good idea...

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