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my body work


suparman

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So I shaved my marker lights and fuel filler door. No major deformation, but I still needed a skim coat of something so I went to the parts store and almost bought bondo but then I remembered that on another section of the car there was rust under the bondo. And concluded with no real evidence that the bondo was at fault. So I bought bondo glass because it is stronger and water proof and skim coated that with ever-coat. The question after this rambling is, is this a good foundation or did I waste time and money I would hate to have done that.

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So I shaved my marker lights and fuel filler door. No major deformation, but I still needed a skim coat of something so I went to the parts store and almost bought bondo but then I remembered that on another section of the car there was rust under the bondo. And concluded with no real evidence that the bondo was at fault. So I bought bondo glass because it is stronger and water proof and skim coated that with ever-coat. The question after this rambling is, is this a good foundation or did I waste time and money I would hate to have done that.

The only problem I see with that is the glass filler is harder and will resist the sanding slightly more than the Evercoat causing an uneven surface. As long as you don't sand through the Evercoat you'll be okay. If you covered over any rust then you did waste your time.

Edited by theramz
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I have no rust left I used a spot blaster and acid wash from the parts store I also have a line sander I used to make sure there were no waves. I have heard bondo is cheap and no good but do not understand why. My logic follows this way most fillers are polyester so base ingredients and materials are the same. The difference being people who use them, professional's go to the auto body supplies house and get their stuff. Professionals are trained and know how to use it. Random Joe goes to auto parts store and buys what is available I:e bondo and does not know proper usage so he usually so screws up and gives the product a bad name because he slathered the quarter panel with to much or let the mud get wet or any number of other things. So to my mind the only difference is education and ability of applicators.Please correct me if I am wrong but this is how i am thinking of this issue.

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A line sander is too ridgid. You have created flat spots that will show through the paint. The "feathers" should be 10 times longer and also the bondo feathers into the evercoat making the flat spots. You can rewipe the area way beyond what you have and use a 24" polyurethane board sanding diagonally accross the area in an X pattern. If you paint over that you will be disappointed. Cheap fillers continue to shrink.

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I will get some rage gold and board sand then thank you. should I remove what is there or just wipe over it?

I would remove it because of the delayed shrinkage. Build it up in thin layers. When you sand, straddle the spot with the 24" flexible block. You can get them from ebay or Eastwood. After you get it close as you can paint it with high build primer and block the whole car the same way. You will find spots that need more work. If you don't spend the time you will have a paint job that will make you want to sell it. Patience, I spent months doing mine. I didn't have any experience but I do now and I'm not afraid to do it again. Buy the right tools!

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Zgrip is great stuff. Sands easily. I agree with ^. First thing I noticed is that your body line isn't as sharp and it will be very noticeable. If I can see it in a picture in primer, it's going to pop bigtime in paint. Also, are you using rattlecan primer? It would make sense for you stop doing that and prime each panel with a good epoxy primer. Many paint companies don't approve of that type of primer under their topcoat. Just trying to save you some trouble.

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I am replacing all glass it is pretty dinged and pitted and the trim is going to get powder coated black. The primer is just some spray 2k high build. I saw the body line issue definitely going to rework that area. I am not sure how I lost it I kept the block flat to avoid that so maybe I did not build that area high enough.

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Its possible you didn't build high enough. The other issue that will get you is if you are using a short block. Use a block that is 1' or longer and make your strokes to where they move at about a 30 degree angle towards the body line from above or below. try not to spend a lot of time right on the body line until you are ready to match it to the rest of the car. I could see that effect happening with too much up-down sanding using a smaller block.

 

The block has to "ride" on the solid un-compromised body around the damaged area. You have to make sure your sanding lets the block be supported there in order to re-create the factory body lines.

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My block is 2 inches wide and 14 inches long. I used more of a forty five degree angle sweep at a forty five with the block down on the body line. Kinda like this if the bottom line is the body line and the slash is my block / ___.

I really appreciate all of the advice and criticism that is being provided so thank you all .

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You will have a line show through between those two areas because the feathers are too short. I would rewipe about 6' past the two spots and join them. Just a thin final wipe and use a block about 24" long so it will straddle them. You should be using 220 grit now. Stay off the body line untill the very last. You are sanding a compound curve. The body line should be from the door and daylights out over the wheel arch and reappears to the end. Compare it to the other side. If that is rattle can primer you need to take it off or your base coat might lift. If you are going to have a pro shoot it ask them about it now. Some prefer to do the primer sealer themselves. If he says rattle can is okay then take it to someone else.

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