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Z31 Axle Swap R200 CLSD - M2 Differentials

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Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I want to mention the axle configuration here since I just spent the last hour searching to verify which differential input axle goes on

Hi I have axles being made right now.  They are a copy of Jon Mortensen axles.  They should be finished in 3-4 weeks price for the pair should be around $330-350 for the pair.  Thanks to Jon M. idea. 

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I've broken an inner Z31 stub, overheated an inner CV (road course) and twisted 2 slip yokes, one of them completely and dropped it into my driveshaft loop. Not much available (nothing) to upgrade the rear yoke of the driveshaft, except by getting the newest, biggest factory replacement cast steel yoke available. There are a variety of input yokes for the R200 of varying size. I just went thru my pile of R200s til I found the largest one, and found a driveshaft shop that helped me find the corresponding (new) driveshaft yoke to fit it. Then, I found metric "grade 8" bolts to fit it and made sure the shoulder of the bolts crossed the junction between the two yokes to be joined. Then, I used a torque wrench to torque them up. For the slip yoke end, I now use a $200 treated billet yoke. Really sucks, cause in the next couple years I will be upgrading to a T56 Magnum and will need a new slip yoke too!

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Jerry of jnjdragracing taught me to limit axle angles during launch. When drag racing, I raise my rear ride height so that the axle squats toward being straight, instead of beyond straight. I run a stiffer rear spring and shock that stock, and I have installed bumpstops to further stiffen the rear rate on launch. Then I run 11-14# of air in bias ply slicks, so the tires absorb most of the weight transfer and the driveline shock. Drag radials are a quick way to break stuff.


The photos of the brown car show how much the stock suspension gets goofed up during launch. Amazingly, it still hooks up well even with all this camber! But driveline angles become dangerously stressed.


Compare this to my avatar photo-there's still some camber and toe deflection, but not nearly as much.



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  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread but does anyone know the part numbers or where to find the inner bearings? Both the tripod and the caged bearings. I have the Trakmotive (Rock Auto) NI8442 (NI-8442) and NI8435 (NI-8435). I got the passenger side apart pretty easily but the snap ring must be bound up in the outer driver's side end. Wound up hitting it hard enough the cage shattered and ball bearings went flying. And even then the inner part of the bearing still won't budge from the axle. 

Any help would be appreciated. 

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