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Coyote Motor in 240Z thoughts.


Ryan Merrill

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I've been doing a lot of research on the coyote platform over on yellowbullet in terms of the strength of the block in turbo applications. I've been up in the air between doing a aluminum 5.3L LS motor and the coyote. Seems the LS is good for about 1200whp before head lift becomes and issue on the 4 bolt heads and people start cracking sleeves. At this point you move to an aftermarket 6 bolt block and heads. Aluminum block options in this realm are $$$. The alternative at this level is a coyote with a sleeved block and factory heads. A sleeved Coyote block is ~3k+the block itself which isn't cheap by any means. You do get to retain the factory heads that provide enough clamping force and flow. Its a bit unknown how reliable they are up at the 1200-1500whp level. I'm going to wait and watch the aftermarket sort out the issues and get the recipe down before I dip my toe into a turbo build. What I do plan on doing in the mean time is swapping a 2011-2012 F150 into my 240z. Not sure what transmission I'll back it with at this point. 

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  • 2 months later...
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I may be taking the plunge on this new coyote motor thing. A guy has a wrecked 2011 mustang with a good engine and wants to buy just my 2012 body so he's buying/trading with me and we're keeping drivetrains so i'll have a complete coyote setup with no home. and being the generous person i am i would be willing to shelter this in my 240z. This is not all set in stone yet because i also have a 66 mustang coupe i could put it in but it is a pretty big project and i don't think i want to tackle this just now so we'll see.

 

 

 i cant remember were i got my number so it could of just been a typo idk

 

This is where i would start the build if i did http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112621-starting-new-project-73/

I would try to get out of it as cheap as possible because i got a lot of other stuff going on, so go ahead and let the hate fly! But i have already spent a ton of money to restore this car to better than original condition and have everything i need to complete it although i never intended it to be a v8 car. you can see what ive done so far

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Yep, Dropping one in a coupe means no more shock towers!  That's was the exact reason I had the Mod motors in my Z.  Brought home a 4.6 SOHC naively thinking it would just drop into our '65.  Remember, the 'width' dimensions given on charts etc are normally at the widest part of the engine, ie the cam bump-outs on my DOHC.  In my engine bay, they sit just in front of the shock towers, so the width was easy for me.  Well... relatively easy anyways. 

 

 

so go ahead and let the hate fly

 

Honestly no idea why you'd say that on this forum.  Get your hate the purist/restoration forums, not HybridZ.  We've been waiting for a while for a Coyote swap.  Or even for the other Mod motor guys to finish up their swaps.....

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I still don't think you would find much hate.

 

You can always add those parts as needed, I think you would only find a problem with that if you said you planned on tracking-daily driving-drifting-racing in a car with a 400+hp motor and stock R180 differential and stub axles. Then a bit of caution would probably be advised just so you don't close the roads or the track when one of the wheels fall off. 

 

It would be a shame to just putt around town when it could be quite potent. Those new mustang motors have quite a bit of pick up and go.

 

Now if you install the motor with a roll of duct tape and some wood screws, I think someone might want to have a word with you.

Edited by seattlejester
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This was my preferred swap, I would still love to do this swap but I ended up going LS. The cost of the LS swap is so very cheap and everything is documented for swapping the motor into pretty much anything. The 2014 GT have the Boss 302 rods and are much stronger. They can make 750 whp on mild boost and still be reliable.

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How much are you interfering by?  I know you had some CAD models you were playing with, possibly the easiest (to keep from making custom alternator mounts etc) might be to just notch the frame rail.  It's not handling any serious loads in front of the shock towers, so you should be fine to notcn and of course refill the notched hole.  Or, remember you can flip alternators around and run them backwards, ie, the 'back' of the alternator could face the radiator, which vastly opens up your mounting scenarios.  Additionally, did you check the truck/van vs. car belt routings?  On SBF's they're vastly different, not sure on the OHCs, as I've only used car engines.

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For completely unrelated reasons... I was doing research...

Ford now makes part number M-9430-SR50A which are block hugging cast manifolds that should be ideal for tight engine bays, with minimal sacrifice in power. I can't find dynos, but I'm willing to bet it's no major restriction.

So unless I missed it, we're stilling waiting on our first Coyote swap? Looks easier and cheaper every year....

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For reference:

 

image.thumb.png.a6f47fcbba81b12830f48a0046ca6681.png

 

I can't find any pictures of them installed though. It mildly concerns me that they angle at the end, which means they're pointing at the transmissions potentially a bit much, but they also seem to terminate right at the end of the motor, so that's probably pretty good. That'll put the flange in a place that there should be space for them.

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I'd be concerned about the kick out, especially the right one. Also as high as those are it would dump into the firewall. If the engine is kept more forward there might be room to get it turned down. The engine bay is plenty long. I don't think they will work very well if the engine is held tight to the firewall for better car balance. With how short the Coyote platform is a front/mid engine setup should be possible with the strut towers about even with cylinders 1&2. My firewall is messy anyway so I'm going to set the engine right back into it and box a bit as necessary. 

 

I plan to do some shorty equal length headers. Reports I have seen show these engines really respond to a good exhaust and tune. Because the pulses are perfectly even side to side the Voodoo exhaust can be much less complicated and still have no compromise. 

 

If they don't flare too much, those manifolds might work well to get an engine in and running initially. You could always add headers. 

Edited by jpndave
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