Jump to content
HybridZ

How Best To Remove Fish Eyes in Clear W\Out Repainting?


slownrusty

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys - A few weeks ago, I had a buddy paint a fiberglass trunk spoiler for me as a favor, it came out good but has about 20-30 fish eyes in the clear coat. I would like to remove the fish eyes, without sanding and repainting the entire spoiler, what advice can you share? There is a generous amount of clear on the spoiler.

Thanks - Yasin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then of course you're going to buff it out to a high gloss with a good compound and orbital buffer... In the shop, it'd just be easier on a small part to sand it down and re-shoot it (assuming there was no plan in the first place to wet sand and buff the piece).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, the fish eyes are definitely in the clear (versus the base). When you say sand in an "X"...what do you mean? Can I buy a sanding block and go back and forth or rather across as the spoiler is narrow only 6-8" in width?

 

Based on your responses is it OK to start with 2000 grit wet and see how that goes, as I want to minimize how much clear I cut (versus starting with 1500).

Thanks,

Yasin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on your responses is it OK to start with 2000 grit wet and see how that goes, as I want to minimize how much clear I cut (versus starting with 1500).

 

2000 is pretty fine (that's why we use it last)... Even on a small piece, it could take some time to remove enough clear to make a difference. But - can't hurt - try it with 2000 first if you want. I think you'll find the 1500 first, then 2000 to finish will be the better way to go. Both are very fine grits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

* cross sand at 90 degree angles. Sand straight up and down, then straight left and right.

 

 

You could try rubbing compound first if it's just the clear coat and probably not that deep. Then polishing compound and you're done.

Ahh cool thanks for the technique.

 

2000 is pretty fine (that's why we use it last)... Even on a small piece, it could take some time to remove enough clear to make a difference. But - can't hurt - try it with 2000 first if you want. I think you'll find the 1500 first, then 2000 to finish will be the better way to go. Both are very fine grits.

Ok will try the 2000 first and if no improvement..I'll crack out the 1500

 

DO I need to use a cutting and finishing compound? If so what do you guys recommend?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest tybee260

To take out 1500-2000 sand scratches, I would use 3M heavy cut compound or Diamond Cut compound with a wool buffing pad, then medium cut meguires with a yellow foam pad, then a fine cut compound or finishing glaze with a black foam pad, then wax. Light colors such as silver or white will be easieist to remove sand scratches and swirls, and dark colors such as black or dark blue, green will be the hardest to remove.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To take out 1500-2000 sand scratches, I would use 3M heavy cut compound or Diamond Cut compound with a wool buffing pad, then medium cut meguires with a yellow foam pad, then a fine cut compound or finishing glaze with a black foam pad, then wax. Light colors such as silver or white will be easieist to remove sand scratches and swirls, and dark colors such as black or dark blue, green will be the hardest to remove.

Cool thanks! Luckily the color is silver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always just gone from the 2000 straight to the polishing compound. But yeah probably wasting time starting with 2000. Whenever I try to start with a finer grit to cut corners I find I'm taxing myself by it just taking way longer. You shouldn't have to go over it much with one grit before stepping up, if it doesn't seem to be working then you're starting to high and need to step it down. I'll usually just use 1200 very briefly first to get it all even, and then go to 2000 just to reduce the haze from the 1200 before polishing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always just gone from the 2000 straight to the polishing compound. But yeah probably wasting time starting with 2000. Whenever I try to start with a finer grit to cut corners I find I'm taxing myself by it just taking way longer. You shouldn't have to go over it much with one grit before stepping up, if it doesn't seem to be working then you're starting to high and need to step it down. I'll usually just use 1200 very briefly first to get it all even, and then go to 2000 just to reduce the haze from the 1200 before polishing.

Excellent..thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...