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twin cam L6 3.4L


PMC raceengines

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PMC,

 

Do you drilled that on the head you cut open to locate the spot, then drilled the same thing on a real head? Any additional tips/tricks you used to get the location identical and the angle of drilling identical would help us all out. Great mod though. Am I right in assuming that where you drilled was two separate water galleries? Or is it just a casting error?

 

Dave

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Actually the casting bridge / flash he removed was covered in the 24 page "help" thread mentioned

It can also be reached during head-work / preparation through the larger hex-headed Allen casting plug found at the top of one of the photos. Cleaning it with a burr during prep keeps you from having to do band-aids later on when you don't want to take it all apart again and look for a quick fix on the dyno.

None of this is new.

Edited by Tony D
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I did all the ports with this methed i did a dummy run with the cut up head then did the good head of the motor ,,

 

YES tony i did try to do it thru the plugs that were there but could not get the hole bridge removed

and as is did all ports i needed a new hole and new fix .i know this has been done before but iv tryed to get more out and this is just a difrent angle at the fix

thanks peter mc

Edited by PMC raceengines
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Peter,

 

It'd be awesome if you provided more info up front. Less confusion for the masses like me that way. :)

 

Did you drill and tap new holes in the head on every port?

What size?

Did you use anything to ensure you were drilling in the right spot? Or does the drill bit just locate naturally?

 

Love the pictures. :)

 

Dave

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Just as curious here however its only due to me not going through the 24 page source... Looks like that's where I'm going next.

 

Getting a bit mixed up by the pictures but I'm assuming that there is some casting flash that blocks water from flowing between that exhaust and intake port, so you're drilling through it, allowing water to go around it. Excuse my ignorance on the situation.

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It's a ***** to get to the wall he accessed with the drilling, but there is a LOT of casting flash that is in there that has to be removed before worrying about the bridge he removed. And if you have a dental burr and a narrow-nosed pneumatic head...

 

I don't know the depth of the wall being removed from the photos, and there is the possibility of after cleaning of the head by conventional means, you have the interior ports cleaned via Extrude-Honing.

 

But Extrude-Honing the water passages in the head would be insane. Nobody would ever go to that extent...

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But Extrude-Honing the water passages in the head would be insane. Nobody would ever go to that extent...

**** P? :)

 

I would love to have a go at this but when you already have an extensively port and polished head it doesn't sound such a good idea! I'd rather have a go with a head that I've yet to spend money on port work, just in case things go wrong!

 

Awesome thread Peter.

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Sorry for the lack of detale i have been mad bissy at work, over the next days i will take some more pics and do some sort of plan for people that wont to do this mod at home .

 

Doing this with the drill i was able to remove the bridge ,all of it on all ports , and it was done in 1hour , so its a very easy mod .

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Is that with, or without Molson's?

 

The TRUE test of Canadian Workmanship.

 

Some may want to copy a couple of the last relevant posts here relating to cooling effects and transfer it to the "24 page thread" (at least some links) so independent verification on timing and cooling effects, as well as relevant alternate methods are all in ONE place (kinda why an FAQ section exists, eh?)

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Just a up date , next week i will take it back to the dyno to try some mods .

Things i wont to try, last time we had some good resolts with the water mods but i wont to know how it will go with more comp , so i removed the head and shaved it to 50cc from 54cc so it now 11 from 10.3 . So i wont to know if it will run the same timing with the mods iv made to the water system .

 

2. try new exhaust manifolds , we have 3 sets to try, and we have the ones we had for a control to set a bench mark

 

3. Also have a new cam with more lift if we get time

 

4. Try 2 difrent spots to see if its better to put the hot water from over the port into the lower hose or in to the thermostat housing ,or in the top hose

 

post-26847-010669000 1334919861_thumb.jpg

post-26847-002973800 1334920159_thumb.jpgpost-26847-059094400 1334921477_thumb.jpgpost-26847-094451000 1334921515_thumb.jpg

 

So more info next week ...

Edited by PMC raceengines
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  • 3 weeks later...

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