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1974 260z with E12-80 280zx Distributor swap wiring with Tach hook up


Ducer

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Okay here is the definitive 260z with 280zx Distributor swap and tachometer hook up. Most FSM and other people don't have a specific write up for the 260z, so after months of trial and tribulations, I made this and it's surely the best, it's idiot proof:

 

Materials need:

1) 1979-1981 280zx Distributor, 280zx The distributor base, cap and rotor.

 

1A) 1979-1981 E12-80 Igniter aka (Ignition Control Unit ICU) which is screwed on the side of the distributor. You can use the 82-83 Distributor but you should use the E12-80 Igniter, as the 82-83 Igniter has a few more terminals and a little more complicated.

 

2) 14-16 gauge wires, spade connectors, or you can go to the junk yard and cut the original connector pigtail that plugs into the E12-80 igniter, but female spade connectors will work as well.

 

3) Use your stock Cylindrical type coil, you can upgrade to MSD coil or Flamethrower ****NOTE***I've tried using a more modern coil such as an RX7, 240sx coil, but I believe the resistance in the coil is different and therefore the Tach didn't function correctly as the appropriate voltage was not sent to the tach. The voltage was drawn away by the newer/modern type coil and thus insufficient voltage was sent to the tach making it sporadic.

 

4) Use OEM 260z,280z,280zx grey resistor with 3 red lines and one amber, came stock with 260z, 280z, and even the 280zx. If you can't find one at the junk yard, you simply go on ebay or radioshack and get a 2.2K OHM / 1 Watt Resistor 12v or 120V max. (which is the same specs as the factory one). You will need this resistor as it lowers the voltage so that the tach will work. Without out this resistor the tach will not work. The 260z and 280z tach works on Voltage and Negative Triggered. Resistor Location: In the main harness coming from outside to inside where just above the Passenger's right feet would be, encased in a white plastic cocoon, resistor is inside that.

 

wirin.jpg

 

5) **Delete the ballast resistor unit as you will not need this anymore.

 

6) **Delete the Transistor (Ignition IGN)unit as you will not need this with the ZX electronic distributor swap.

 

 

transis.jpg

Edited by Ducer
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Resistance goes down with gauge (thick wire has less resistance). For the record.

 

What do you mean by "it was due to my coil"? Did you change coils? Might help someone if you told which coil you're using that works right.

 

And is that the black inline resistor from the 280Z EFI wiring harness, in your drawing? Just to be clear. It says 260Z/280Z, not sure what that means.

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  • 1 month later...

Additional zx dizzy modificatio. Retarding the vacuum adcance.

 

So after experiencing the massive zx vacuum advance and curve i pondered about a solution and i got one. As an aquarium hobbiest i found that using an adjustable air valve is a simple way to reduce the suction and thus limiting the zx dizzy's diaphram operation. So i went on ebay and purchased a nice chrome $3 dollar air valve. After setting the base timing at 7 degrees and playing with the air valve ive managed to get the advance to be at 20-25 degrees at full load. Without this limitation it would be over 30 degrees at full load. With this simple valve you can set your base timing higher to 10-15 degrees and you can lower the advance under load. In addition you can diable or enable the vacuum advance with a turn of the knob. I highly recommend doing this instead of plugging off the vac advance. Its like a simple manual vacuum contol. And it works awesome and looks cool. NO need to fiddle with the distributor plates and complicated process to reduce the vacucum advance. Enjoy

fea84b29.jpg

Edited by Ducer
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  • 1 year later...

Additional zx dizzy modificatio. Retarding the vacuum adcance.

 

So after experiencing the massive zx vacuum advance and curve i pondered about a solution and i got one. As an aquarium hobbiest i found that using an adjustable air valve is a simple way to reduce the suction and thus limiting the zx dizzy's diaphram operation. So i went on ebay and purchased a nice chrome $3 dollar air valve. After setting the base timing at 7 degrees and playing with the air valve ive managed to get the advance to be at 20-25 degrees at full load. Without this limitation it would be over 30 degrees at full load. With this simple valve you can set your base timing higher to 10-15 degrees and you can lower the advance under load. In addition you can diable or enable the vacuum advance with a turn of the knob. I highly recommend doing this instead of plugging off the vac advance. Its like a simple manual vacuum contol. And it works awesome and looks cool. NO need to fiddle with the distributor plates and complicated process to reduce the vacucum advance. Enjoy

fea84b29.jpg

 

That is an interesting solution. Sorry to bump an old thread but I am trying to get some information on the vacuum advance of the 280zx distributors before going through with the swap..

 

Currently running a stock L24. I am worried about the vacuum advance being too much and I have yet to find any definitive writeups on how to deal with this issue.. and whether it even is an issue. Does anyone have any experience? I've heard of some completely disabling the vacuum advance, others modifying it to be correct, and others still leaving it alone with no problems.

 

Should I just go with pertronix? I'd like to build a high compression L28 at some point though..

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  • 2 years later...

Thanks Ducer for posting this.  I spent days tracking down my no spark issue all the way to the Transistor ign box.  I just happened to have a 79 280zx that I bought as a parts car for the 5 speed tranny to swap out into my 260z.  I followed your instructions for the distributor swap and now my car run better than ever.  Just a big thanks to you for your help. 

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  • 3 years later...

Ya, I don't understand why he's wired the coil and electronic ignition module always hot. The stock B/W delivers  battery voltage to the coil at ignition ON. Connecting the red from the electronic ignition module to the coil "+" provides power to the module at ignition ON. You don't need more than that. But. I also don't understand why wiring it that way would cause your fuel pump to run... 

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