Jump to content
HybridZ

Project: SteeZee - 1973 Datsun 240Z LQ9 V8 Build


Recommended Posts

4ab9fd52.jpg

IMG_0635_zps362cbc37.jpg

5f8be10a.jpg

 

Some from my library, keep in mind, my braces aren't anywhere close to the best way to do it, and some people may frown on the bends in the main hoop.

 

But it does sit really close to the roof, I could weld a bead to the gusset plate for the roof if I took the headliner out. And my seat sits forward of the hoop so 0 chance of interference with a helmet. But you can see how the box mount interferes with the seat in the first picture. Really does limit your ability to recline. I think I have 1 click of recline and 4 or 5 clicks of forward adjustment. I'm 5'10 and my feet are almost straight to reach the pedals, but my arms have a 135 bend to the steering wheel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Seattle - those pics help thanks - but from what I've seen on racing series specs I'm not allowed an adjustable bucket and I have to have those 6"x6" plates. I've put the hoop at a 9 degree angle back to try and gain a bit of room but I do have to get a fixed bucket to test fit everything before I make my A-Pillar arms.

 

Hit up the shop today - got the main diagonal in. Before someone mentions it, I plan on taking the tacks off and cleaning up the weld joints next weekend before continuing the rest of the cage - I just didn't have any emery cloth today.

 

CF6A278D-1EAE-4097-8F6B-6DB7882495B3-263

 

A85DDD1E-35C1-4CF1-BB17-311A21B2219B-263

 

2F00C803-B23D-4D9A-8123-7B8E59FFDB51-263

 

Also finished up that lift plate. Buying some engine goodies this week hopefully come in for the weekend.

 

812233A1-0029-4ADC-BBCD-2935765B0B4E-263

 

I've decided on making a tubular front subframe - anyone have any good reference examples? It will hold my engine mounts, steering rack and control arms.

 

Obviously not the wheels I will be running, however these 205/60/R16 have the exact same OD as the 275/40/R17 I have at the shop. Someday will be 315/35/R17, but I'll run the Yokohama 275's I already have first. 

 

5CEC0A0B-E23B-415B-80D0-D98AAF1B78E6-688

 

7B86E0B2-AC8F-4C60-ABBD-8ED173237A67-688

 

02821528-056F-4C72-A724-5751CABDE399-688

 

FF637A17-D3DD-4A4E-BFEB-452661BBC547-688

 

The forward rear control arm mount is at 0 degrees centre of mount pivot to the centre of the balljoint at the ride height shown. This leaves 3.5 inches of wheel travel upwards from ride height once I cut out the wheel well and run extra wide ZG flares 

 

The rearward rear control arm mount is at ~5 degrees from centre of mount pivot to centre of balljoint at the ride height shown. 

 

Suspension experts: Is 3.5" enough wheel travel or am I leaving too much or too little of a gap before hitting tire into wheel well? The optimum parallel RLCA - is this to the front mount or the rear mount of the RLCA? 

 

All arms will be adjustable, but if I have to move my subframe mount up - now would be the time to do it. 

 

Also, made these braces up - will make the same for the other side of the engine mount bracket all the way to the firewall. 

 

8D16F45B-F6BA-4D58-93FC-096D46725C11-688

 

4BC6169A-609F-4FEC-8FED-E6C4962266FA-688

 

Factory 2012 Camaro driveshaft with the isolator placed where my transmission flange will be:

 

8DB52125-B7C3-4256-AFD0-D0259094D9D6-688

 

7FBA31DB-DA66-44A6-B352-CA98DCB38325-688

 

This means I can cut the second half of the camaro driveshaft off at roughly that weld line and weld a Q45 flange onto it for mating to my diff. I'll have a U-Joint, Slip yoke as well as the rubber isolator at the transmission output shaft. 

 

Picked up GM LS7 Lifters 

 

CB68n3wBWkKGrHqMOKj0EzlMlwGjYBNJegnb_12.

 

As well as GM LS2 Lifter Trays

 

_57.jpg

 

Everything in blue is done. 

 

E9F88077-0436-4793-9061-C0383FC50DA1-688

 

I put the Z back on rotisserie today so if this week I can come to a conclusion about the subframe height I can continue on with the cage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the looks of it, I would say that the rubber donut with the flange on it is mainly for locating the center of the long driveshaft and helping NVH on the Camaro. The rubber spacer between the transmission and the driveshaft is where I see the main impact absorber for the driveline to be - it will only allow as much shock as the durometer of the rubber permits.

 

I'm glad the Camaro driveshaft came with my TR6060 as everything will bolt up if I measure right and weld on a Q45 diff mating flange. From what I've seen, guys run 600+ whp through these driveshafts without issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am currently switching my rear subframe setup. The setup shown before was a 2.5" square tube mounted just behind the original mount. I am now going to a 1.5"x3.0"x.120" rectangular tubing. As I said in the last post, the 2.5" square tube allows 3.5" of wheel travel (5" max with clearancing) and the rear LCA had a 5 degree angle to the rear mount and a 0 degree angle to the front mount. From what I've heard, the rear mount should be parallel to the ball joint.

 

I also figure it is easier to shim the subframe down from a 1.5" connector if I have to dial anything in rather than be SOL.

 

Keep in mind this isn't finished, it is just as far as I got today. I haven't seen anyone do the rear rails this way but it made sense - complete clearance of the subframe, and can be triangulated. I'll sketch it up in Solidworks this week so it makes more sense.

 

ccdd79a3-ea78-4393-bc90-e22fc4096788.jpg

 

DAB60969-F5E4-415C-965D-00F39EA16B43-174

 

E713DA32-BE65-4F16-8D10-2C3FBF1726A2-174

 

9C178755-3F89-4F0C-8A20-195255800F63-174

 

A2A3C295-AF5F-4769-BD08-64FF9F41D522-174

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Removed the old 2.5"x2.5" Crossmember.

 

97C68FA5-AAE4-43CC-BBD3-8C8A63B68937-824

50D64711-2FA7-4E44-A808-3B05D4001419-824

 

New 1.5"x3"x.120 cross member - just roughed for now since I didn't get the M20 Socket head shoulder bolts in time.

 

88447653-B23B-47EB-9142-008E6ADF096E-824

 

Clearance to bulkhead. I added 3/4" angle to the bulkhead for strength in that corner, notched the bulkhead and the angle for the 1x3 horizontal piece. Brought a tube from the frame rail down to this at what worked out to exactly 45 degrees :D Also added 2" angle 6" long to brace the factory crossmember where this 1x3 meets it.

 

8C1751BA-D062-4E1A-A02F-B1D3D1D46D94-824

 

349A4A03-2E26-4F68-A385-65D7CA8FF333-824

 

AB073D97-726E-4432-BC25-1D5E052EA3FE-824

 

B7019B9C-F0DD-4E24-B291-E3559B2E6874-824

 

DF7A421B-9891-4D73-A283-A25F157E0BFC-824

 

8448FB6A-4CF0-40A0-AD9A-6C01CDA338DD-824

 

E1B1A39E-5D39-4AE8-95EF-D160EF7FE518-824

 

Also picked up one of these for dirt cheap since the powdercoat was dinged on the front face as shown. 50% off for a pure aesthetic? Sold!

 

04-07 Cadillac CTS-V Brembo Front Caliper

# Pistons: 4 x 40/44mm

Total piston area: 8.61 sq. in. 5554 sq. mm

Rotor Thickness: 1.26 in. (32 mm)

Part #: (L) 89047727

 

EAD7D94A-A485-4AC4-9EA4-44FF85C8D4FF-824

010fd2a7-3398-48cc-a601-aac91140b21d.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking about the future need for a trailer hitch and/or a chute. I'm looking at your rear cage bars that go from the main hoop toward the license plate. Any reason why you located them there? Wheel tubs in the future? Hoping to learn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Sunny!

 

RebekahsZ, I designed that bar to

 

1) support the bulkhead as it does hold a fair bit of rigidity of the unibody, especially since I was cutting out the two bins. I plan on tying in the two 1x3's (only one completed at this point), with basically the mirror image of that bar coming from the main hoop. I'll add this in to Solidworks and it should be a bit more clear.

 

2) My seat mounts are going to be two tubes dropped from this tube. Similar to this: KRH9563-L.jpg Matt Powers 2012 S14 build on MotoIQ (below) has given me alot of inspiration.

 

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/2605/PageID/4852/Matt-Powers-2012-Formula-D-ride-Part-4.aspx

 

3) Like you mentioned, leaves possibility for a strong bulkhead in case I need to open up my wheel wells and tie them into the bulkhead.

 

A trailer hitch AND a chute? Interesting combo for sure!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I've been called in to work every weekend so this has not progressed all month :(

 

Matched the DS fenderwell to the PS

 

008DD184-CB99-4F44-98C0-D260DE960FFB-169

 

8F93D2B0-D0E3-4D36-B7F1-90E40D42145B-169

 

Turned these up on the lathe since I don't like paying $$$ for $3 in 6061 T6. Solid diff bushings - new to make a few more for the front of my Q45 diff.

 

02E53B4C-0622-42CD-B259-0F3A6BF1B927-169

 

Started sketching my front knuckle to design CTS-V Brembo caliper adapter.

 

28CEA87B-32D7-46A9-9F95-B9783D6CD45B-169

 

Old setup:

 

2A1B5801-7F34-4572-B143-DBCE2F772792-169

 

New setup - not shown but welded pipe nipples into the holes like the old setup to sleeve bolts/help crush.

 

D2BFAD9E-5FCC-450D-BED4-9335971C9AD4-169

 

Opened up the subframe bushings to 20.25mm

 

A216191C-AE34-489D-A83E-E44D3B097D15-169

 

Tacked in place after measuring from a number of reference points.

 

C93D67CC-48B5-47BD-8538-BE25C73D9AD6-169

 

I'll have new front subframe mounts done next weekend and continue on with cage A-pillars!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Soo this happened a few weeks ago

 

2037126D-EFE0-49AB-A1A8-AC15BFBB7415-310

 

So I was out of the game for a bit, but starting back into er now.

 

Took this setup

 

234BD276-34EF-4919-B680-0C3281BF883B-310

 

And stuffed it in here

 

66C98A96-BAB0-47D5-AF5A-6CE11A9B6961-222

 

FD8F1C1D-F9D6-4880-A187-24434FF52751-222

 

452C405A-A4E4-4C88-A2B9-17F53000DBB8-222

 

4F33B147-4F50-4591-903C-F58ECA7BD5DC-222

 

Had to chop the factory transmission mounts off the car to get the TR6060 to clear but there is plenty of room in there otherwise. The shift is about 2" too far back but that is no sweat since it has a 6" long bracket connected to a rod which can both be shortened.

 

The steering rack is going to be an issue but ill deal with that after I make my mounts.

 

84E27E33-588C-4C0F-98AF-7DEDBB17D73B-310

 

Also, this is waiting for a rainy day.

 

While I've been down with the ACL tear I had some powdercoating done by JP @ Strip Tech. My Cusco RUCA's as well as the LQ9 valve covers in wrinkle red.

 

456DE698-5BA9-4400-86AE-8CBA5C27AC86-178

IMG_2155.jpg

 

64F8DB24-9665-4FAD-B84C-2EBADB7F9A3F-178

IMG_2153.jpg

 

And to start rebuilding the RUCA's since it seems like the PO didn't know they were left hand thread.. QA1 XMR12 chromoly rod ends - I just need to turn up the 3/4 to M26x1.5LH adapter this week.

 

IMG_2176.jpg

 

Picked up a set of JDMFlares Wide ZG fender flares - 3.75" in the rear, 3.25" in the front. I'm not a fan of doing the usual sheet metal screw so I grabbed M8 nutserts and the tool to install them.

 

10E7131C-408D-4145-8A30-3C4378012A2A-614

IMG_2170.jpg

 

The interior was pretty haggard from welding the rails and sitting forever. All seam sealer is gone, penetrating welds smoothed and all the remnants of sound deadening gone as well.

 

BF787C1F-2C1B-435A-9081-6ED4DE34E051-614

B6B41B3F-B451-4954-B2E6-5C895D116A4A-614

 

Made these up for the front cage mounts

 

C715DE97-65BF-429D-B75F-63237AA6F49E-178

IMG_2158.jpg

IMG_2159.jpg

IMG_2162.jpg

 

Now that the front mounts are done, need to clearance the cowl a bit to allow a nice tight fit of cage to A-pillar.

 

IMG_2173.jpg

 

Also need to cut some tube with an ID larger than the OD of your cage, in an odd shape similar to the pic.

 

8C2F2FED-0B7F-4F56-989D-BF5774322FA4-178

 

I still have to finish up the cowl clearancing but that's it for today!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, been a while since I've been able to get to shop.

 

Picked up Contano S14 5 lug hubs

20150116_200549.jpg

 

Borrowed a buddies tube bender and bought a Princess Auto tube notcher. This is the biggest POS I've seen but it was cheap and I needed something asap. The blue bushing housing had a ton of play to the shaft and the hole saw adapter had huge runout so I made a new shaft assembly out of some spare bearings and milled a plate with a step to align them. Popped a 3/8" hex socket into the end and pinned it so it will never spin so I can adapt to any drill and the wobble of the drill will be taken up by this adapter.

 

20150116_182431.jpg

 

Bent up some scrap pieces of tube to get angles right without using the good DOM

 

20150131_164710.jpg

 

Bent up full A-pillar bars

 

20150201_190504.jpg

 

Halo bar notched nicely.

 

20150201_190531.jpg

20150201_190355.jpg

20150201_190322.jpg

 

Front view of today's work

20150201_190554.jpg

 

Next will be dash bar and halo to main hoop. Should I go straight back or X for the roof bars?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...