xShodaimex Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 It used to start and stay on. It ran fine until yesterday. I turned it on and after about a minute it shuts off. I tried giving it gas and it just dies as if it was choking. The weird thing is once I crank it, it starts right up until about another minute and starts to choke again and dies. I haven't done a thorough diagnosis yet but I have checked the AFM(kinda hard to diagnose??) well the flapper works when I give it gas so I'm not TOO sure its the AFM. I do hear the fuel pump prime the engine so sometime tomorrow or the next day I will check the fuel pressure, JUST to make sure I'm getting enough fuel. I'm not the best diagnoser (if thats even a word) but I'll try my best, so stay tuned on my progress. Feel free for any input on what I should be doing. BTW I will post a video as soon as I can so you guys can hear it. What I think I need to do 1. Check fuel -> filters and fuel pressure 2. Check spark/ignition -> ignition module? coil?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Have you been driving it or just starting it on jack stands? And how old is the gas? I know you too your time with the swap so it could be as simple as bad gas, hopefully.id also double check all electrical connections and anything you needed to splice to get it running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 (edited)  I highly recommend installing a permanent fuel gauge in the fuel rail lines.  That's one of the most important and most often way to eliminate running issues.  FUEL>SPARK>COMPRESSION. Edited June 23, 2012 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 (edited) Yeah Blue LONG TIME RIGHT? lol. Seems TOO long for me. Yeah the gas is pretty recent. Its from about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Im gonna recheck my wiring today. The car is on the ground now, no more jacks. CYGNUSX1 Thats not a bad idea I'll look into it! Edited June 23, 2012 by xShodaimex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 I haven't switched out to a new better looking fuel rail yet. I still got the barbed one which is a sore eye to me. Any recommendations on which in-line gauge I should use? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTOMETER-2176-1-1-2-INLINE-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-0-60PSI-/290470026765?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a15cde0d&vxp=mtr#ht_3776wt_910 ^Maybe something like this yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 I finally checked the pressure and it primed to only 25 psi, so I primed it again and it went to 35 psi. After I started it it went down to 26 psi. I gave it some throttle and it would not go higher than 30 psi. From what I recall, the fuel line must be 30 - 37 psi while idling no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 35psi is normal for my 280zx NA, so I would easily expect the same for an L28et. What pump are you using? Could just be old. As for a fuel pressure guage, When I had my webers I was using a cheap as autozone gauge that screwed into a plastic fitting and I just had it right after the fuel rail on the return line side. If you want your engine bay to look a little bit nicer try and find a used pallnet rail. It makes a world of difference appearance wise. Here is the way I did it, in anticipation of my turbo swap. I used a fuel rail with an aeromotive fpr and a simple liquid filled gauge threaded into it. You can see the hardline runs straight into my fule filter (black thing) and on the right side there is a rubber hose running into the FPR, that's the return. On a side note are you going to college yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 The fuel pump is the stock 280z one. I'm not going for looks just yet. I want it to run first then after I'm done I'll start the clean up on the engine bay and stuff. Tested it again earlier and Im getting only 26 psi at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 You're fuel pressure regulator might also be leaking which is why it's bleeding off some pressure. Other than a possible leak in the system its either the pump is dying, or the fpr is letting more fuel than needed get by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 HAHAHA, I feel like such a noob! I found out that my alternator went out (no wonder I had to keep charging it!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) LONG STORY SHORT, I remembered that I just happened to have a 280zxt alternator, so I thought to myself "Why not just swap it out?" I'm usually scared to cut and splice into the stock wires(not very good with eletrical stuff) But I decided to give it a try! So last night I spent about 2 hours reading back and forth on the swaps. Here's what I read. Bludestiny's post ->> http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98123-early-260z-alternator-upgrade/ I used the Volt reg. diagram for the 75' Z as a base to compare to my late model 260's diagram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html And here is the Volt regulator diagram for the "REDHEADED STEP CHILD 260z" straight from the FSM! I just added the color wires to make it easy on the eyes Edited June 30, 2012 by xShodaimex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 After I read last night I felt pretty confident about conquering this task! Here's what I did, took out the volt reg and cutted the male end.\ I then started to wire up the male end . Number 1 (black/yellow stripe) to Number 5 (white/black stripe)OR FROM THE MALE END #1(white) to #5(green) with a diode in between and also # 2 and 3 together which on the male end is colors Red and Purple. It starts but I checked and it doesn't seem to charge at all so I checked it and it DOESN'T charge!! Here is the 280zxt alternator, I'm not sure what the plug in orange but it's marked "P" near it. Nothing seems to plug into it so I left it alone. The red circle on the other hand seems to be having power coming from it since I checked it with a test light. To sum this all up, I'm pretty sure that I wired it up correctly, but I'm stumped about the NO CHARGE. I must be missing something? What do I do with this? I think it's the shunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Does the wire to L have 12.6 volts (battery voltage) with the key at Run? That wire powers the windings that create the internal magnets that are required for charging. The wire to S needs 12.6 volts also, to sense the voltage for the regulator to control the voltage. And, of course, the thick white wire should have 12.6 also, since it is the charging wire. And the case needs to be grounded, either directly or through the E terminal. You can measure all three with a voltmeter the key at Run, and the grounding with an ohm-meter or test light. If you don't have those, something's wrong with the wiring. If you do have those, you might have an alternator problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 I don't have a working voltmeter ATM so I'll go stop by the store today to grab one and report back as soon as I can. Thanks NewZed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 (edited) I have made some progress today!! I checked the terminals S and I have constant power from the battery and terminal L does have switched power now, so I knew it had to be my wiring that was not right. So I tried taking out the diode and wiring #1 straight to 5 and it still didn't charge. So on my cut up connector I checked the terminals separately and found that #6 also has switched power, so I swapped out 1 for 6. SO I AM USING 5/6 and 2/3. **This was from TrumpetRhapsody http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/40818-260z-alternator-voltmeter-swap/ --> One of his post mentions using wires black/white to wires white/black, so for the LATE 260z its wires 5 and 6. It NOW CHARGES!! But my only problem is that I cannot get it to charge with the diode. I will see what else I can do tomorrow. BTW I have a temporary switch that Im using to power the fuel pump (kill switch) so all I do is turn that switch on and off. I do have a run on problem though with the ignition key off. I feel really close to finishing this!! Edited July 1, 2012 by xShodaimex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 HAHA!! Once again I feel like a noob! I checked the diode with a the multimeter and found that I put it on backwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 When I think I'm done, it craps out on me AGAIN! At first the alternator gave up so I thought my car died because the alternator crapped out. With that replaced it still dies. I will check for spark today and will report back later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Bludestiny. I saw your side note, YES I am still going to college. Gotta go to school to make money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Wait so did you kill you're last alternator? When you got a new one did they test the old one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Yes, went to local autozone and they said it wasn't charging correctly. I also checked for spark last night and I AM getting spark. I have a spare voltage reg, so im gonna try to use that and use a buddy's spare alternator from his Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.