Stock Car Mafia Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Man I really like the look of that sway bar! Is this how they recommend mounting it? Did you drill holes in those upright pieces? I'm interested in something like this. I can't get enough of your updates! Rear sway bar installed. Test drove, feels great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 Man I really like the look of that sway bar! Is this how they recommend mounting it? Did you drill holes in those upright pieces? I'm interested in something like this. I can't get enough of your updates! Thanks, yeah that's installed per the directions. It comes with the new uprights with tabs that stick out all pre-drilled. It made a huge difference in handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Has it made the car turn better on corner exit/acceleration? That is where I see my car handling like POOP right now. I still haven't put the bar back in as it sounds like I'll have clearance issues with the companion flanges. Thanks, yeah that's installed per the directions. It comes with the new uprights with tabs that stick out all pre-drilled. It made a huge difference in handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Has it made the car turn better on corner exit/acceleration? That is where I see my car handling like POOP right now. I still haven't put the bar back in as it sounds like I'll have clearance issues with the companion flanges. It feels better everywhere, especially corner exits. Most would say upgraded sway bars are one of those best bang for the buck mods you can do. The fit is really tight back there, it just clears the halfshaft boots by a half inch or less. Maybe your best bet is a forward facing rear sway, although I still don't know if that will clear still. I'm sure there's something out there that will work for you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 You are the proof I've been waiting for. I think I must have been reading about people that were not using a sway bar but really just using it for straight line or drag race settings. I don't want that. I want a corner carving animal. Glad to hear it handles well! That might be something I grab in the near future. It feels better everywhere, especially corner exits. Most would say upgraded sway bars are one of those best bang for the buck mods you can do. The fit is really tight back there, it just clears the halfshaft boots by a half inch or less. Maybe your best bet is a forward facing rear sway, although I still don't know if that will clear still. I'm sure there's something out there that will work for you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Now that I've got my coolant lines all sorted out and air free the radiator overflow tube has been pissing out coolant when warming up, so figured it was time to get an overflow tank and keep my garage floor and driveway clean. I went with this one from a place called Chase Bays. I wanted something in aluminum, black, and not a pile of crap. Still need to route my hoses but I like the way it looks and it should function just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Been slowly working on the rear brakes. Hardest parts are done. Cleaned and painted the hub face & installed Nismo 50mm extended wheel studs. I'm going to put some 5mm wheel spacers on and see how she looks. I intended on doing the front studs w/ spacers when I had it all apart but I got impatient..future project yayyy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) 3 coats of grabber orange A couple pics of how the pad clips go in, there was no information on this that I could find. Pictures make it so much easier! Almost done just need to bleed them Russell speed bleeders for the rear are part # 639560 Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads 105.03230 Edited August 7, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Test drove, feels good. The 50mm wheel studs with a 5mm spacer fill out the lug nuts nicely. Looks a little more aggressive with the rear tires filling into the flares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Did you gut the pressure valve by the "T" fitting in the back? Don't want the calipers dragging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 No I didn't come across that in my search..do tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Some people mistake it for a bias valve. On rear drum setups, a residual pressure valve is put in the system to leave a little pressure in the lines to keep the brake shoes loaded on the drum. This isn't needed on the disc setup. I just gutted it and put it back together. Just remove the bolt and take the spring and pintle valve out. https://goo.gl/images/7dMS3g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) Awesome thanks for the heads up! I've got to get back in there anyway to attach the e-brake cables. The brackets never made it with my order and I didn't realize it until the end of the install but they're on their way now. Edited August 8, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Some people mistake it for a bias valve. On rear drum setups, a residual pressure valve is put in the system to leave a little pressure in the lines to keep the brake shoes loaded on the drum. This isn't needed on the disc setup. I just gutted it and put it back together. Just remove the bolt and take the spring and pintle valve out. https://goo.gl/images/7dMS3g Ok so apparently the residual check valve was only at the rear passenger side of the car from 70-72, on 73 models it was located in the engine bay. From what I can find there's residual check valves located in the master cylinder. I've since upgraded to the 280zx 5/16 MC. The 280zx had all disc brakes yet the MC still has the check valves but the springs only add a couple pounds of pressure to keep the pads loaded and keep the rotor clean. So the 240z MC would have had the higher 10 lb spring in it for keeping the rear drums loaded. Is there some other location for another RCV or am I good? When I test drove I didn't notice any noise and since I didn't have the e-brake hooked up at the time it was definitely rolling around with ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Here's my referencing threads for my info. I just finished getting the e brake hooked up so I'm going to test drive today or tomorrow and check the brake temp front vs. rear with a pyro meter and see if the rears are getting hot from some drag. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105599-need-help-with-dragging-rear-disc-brakes/ http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38410-master-cyllinder-change-for-disk-brakes-swap/ From 73 FSM: The 1972 FSM shows the proportioning valve in the rear, different master cylinder internals, and a lack of an NP valve in the engine bay (#6 Above). So the NP valve in the engine bay is the proportioning valve in the 73 model. I wonder if it's operation is the same and I should gut the rear line side. Getting someone to chime in with a 73 & rear discs might be tricky... more research on this NP valve.. Edited August 12, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Ok took the Z out around town this morning. Felt really good. Pedal travel is very short and feels nice and firm. It feels like the rear brakes come on the same time as the fronts during hard braking where as before you would feel more of the fronts stopping you. I don't see this being a bad thing yet at least for driving around town. The real test will be when I get it out in the canyons and see how the car behaves. I've heard some people replaced their NP valve with one from a 280zx, that may proportion the brakes better since the zx's had disc brakes. The e-brake feels better too, only a couple clicks to fully engage not cranking the whole lever sky high. After the drive the front brakes were @ 145* and the rears were @ 110* Edited August 13, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Throwback..Z added to 1st post. Edited August 20, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 So I've had my eye out for a used intake heat shield on ebay for a while now and finally came across something that fit my criteria. It's a K&N heat shield from a 94-04 Mustang kit. It's very robust stainless steel and required very little modification to make everything fit. I took a gamble on it for $25 bucks and it fits perfectly. Before having a heat shield the filter was about 100* and 120* on the side facing the exhaust manifold. It will be interesting to see how the temps read now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boben Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 So I've had my eye out for a used intake heat shield on ebay for a while now and finally came across something that fit my criteria. It's a K&N heat shield from a 94-04 Mustang kit. It's very robust stainless steel and required very little modification to make everything fit. I took a gamble on it for $25 bucks and it fits perfectly. Before having a heat shield the filter was about 100* and 120* on the side facing the exhaust manifold. It will be interesting to see how the temps read now. That's a nice find. I'll have to keep this in mind when I finally get "there". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Are you going to upgrade that radiator? Eventually I am going with a dual pass that will put the inlet on the correct side to remove the crossover coolant line when using the L series radiator. Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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