How can valve covers be modified?

[AkumaNoZeta]

I have a 7M-GE and I want to take out that dip on the valve covers and smooth them out and paint them black. What is the best way to do that? I was thinking of using fiberglass but I don't know how it will react to the heat.

[ModernS30]

I have a 7M-GE and I want to take out that dip on the valve covers and smooth them out and paint them black. What is the best way to do that? I was thinking of using fiberglass but I don't know how it will react to the heat.

 

I'm pretty sure when most people shave valve covers they grind the raised sections off.

[johnc]

Cut out the dent, form a piece of aluminum to fit the cut and and shape it correctly to match the rest of the cover, weld it in place, grand, sand, and smooth it down.

[cockerstar]

For those who don't know what the 7MGE valve covers look like I attached a pic below.

 

I'm with John on this one. Form a piece of aluminum sheet to match an weld it on. Grind and sand the welds, weld up the low spots, and sand again for a seamless appearance. That's the process I use when shaving the bosses off of L-series intakes and valve covers and it works just fine. You shouldn't have to do any cutting on your current covers.

 

Personally, I wouldn't want to use fiberglass or filler to build up that much material.

 

 

[AkumaNoZeta]

I don't have the means to weld aluminum though. I'd have to get someone to do it. Even so, would warpage be a problem? I'd hate to have a valve cover that doesn't seal.

 

And what about using JB Weld to fill in the welder's low spots? I live in a small town and haven't found any fabricator around here that I be happy with.

Edited September 11, 2012 by Grim

[johnc]

If you get a tight enough fit on the patch panel you can use a high temp epoxy (not JB weld) to put the patch in place. Once its dry, sand and paint.

[AkumaNoZeta]

Locally the only high temp epoxies I can find are http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CarGo-3-oz-ThermoSteel-High-Temp-metal-repair-jar/_/N-26sd?itemIdentifier=515553_0_0_&target=shelf and http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/JBW0/8297/N0400.oap?ck=Search_epoxy_N0400_-1_4074&keyword=epoxy&pt=N0400&ppt=C0137 (I know, you said no JB weld.)

 

I might be able to find something better at Lowe's or is there a certain brand you would trust more that I should order online?

[johnc]

2,000F epoxy is PLENTY high temp enough! I was thinking more like 500F and even though JB Weld says it can go that high, it softens over time.

[SleeperZ]

JB Weld will eventually fail on parts that heat cycle. My first L28 engine had a chunk of the lower skirt glued in with JB Weld, unknown to me when I bought it. I drove it for 9 months including a trip to California, and then it started seeping oil out of the repaired area.

[CArFAn]

Want to be mr fancy pants get these.

http://www.arizonaperformance.com/7M_Cam_Covers_page.html

[AkumaNoZeta]

I spent months searching for aftermarket 7M valve covers and I never found any. Too bad they're $700 though, that's almost half the price of putting the DCOEs on.

 

I've been having a lot of set-backs lately, the big angle grinder I've been doing most of my chassis work with burnt out on me so I have to buy a new one. Then there's the pricing of the ASE tests I plan to take after I've been working at this shop for a year (January) and the car I'm driving while the Z is down still needs a lot of work ($$$) before I trust it to drive out of town to take the tests. Even before my grinder broke I wasn't get much done because I've been welding up my boss' dad's 33' Ford truck every weekend, he's on vacation this week though so when I get paid Friday I'll have a new grinder and a whole weekend for the Z.