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Which diff swap for 600hp?


Spoony

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Hi,

 

my RB26 is getting in these days. I have 2860-5 turbos, will go up to 600hp max. (dont know the torque yet).

 

Which way of diff uprade should i go? As England is really near and i dont have taxes to pay (in Europe) and not really high shipping costs, i would like to buy the diff there.

 

My plan was to buy a quaife diff (660GBP) and the Wolf Creek Racing CV kit:

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

 

Plan B would be to get a Subaru R180 LSD diff and the Beta Motorsport side axles.

 

Im not sure which way to go, do you have any ideas to handle the power?

 

Gearbox is from a R33 RB25 Gtst, i drive 275/40/17 semi slicks on 9,5x19 wheels.

Will do 70% street, 10% drag and 20% track.

 

Thanks!

Eddie

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Why should i not really have 600HP? Its not like we Germans have no clue about fast cars :wink:

 

Why wont the Quaife setup work? I asked these guys and they told me it can handle all kind of power with lifetime warranty.

The new halfshafts also seem to be more solid than the stock ones.

The RB26 engine wont make that much torque like a 600hp V8.

 

 

@John

If its not possible to get this solved with the R180 quaife, how much is it when you get me a complete R200 setup (without the quaife diff)?

 

I will visit your shop in November. And im posting that right now because im only there for 10 days and cant accept any shipping, production or buying delays.

Shipping a diff to Germany will be like $500, so its really important to get ALL parts i need in the back of my Caddy.

If you think im telling bullshit or waste your time, i can send you some pictures of my projects :wink:

 

Thanks for your help!

Edited by Spoony
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I'm in the business I see dozens of horsepower claims every week. And no, you cannot reliably run 600hpm through a R180 diff. I ran 325hp through my two R180s with Quaife diffs and they would get so hot you couldn't touch them without heat resistant gloves. An infrared gun showed that the covers were over 300 degrees F. Doubling the horsepower will cook the R&P in short order. I'm sure a R200 Quaife can handle your 600hp, depending on how you use it.

 

I don't sell Quaife diffs because, through my racing experience, I prefer the OS Giken Super Lock. I generally only sell stuff that I would use on my own race car. If you want an price estimate for a R200 with a OS GIken Super lock installed, please contact me at the e-mail address below. I need to know what gearing you're looking for to see if I can source that before you come in November.

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I bought the turbos and the RB26 is also here. My last project was my R34 GTR pushing 754hp on the dyno (4wd shaft off because it was only a 2wd dyno):

 

 

The RB25 gearbox can only handle arround 600hp on a RB engine (still dont know the torque, the R34GTR made 880nm but it was a single turbo and more hp).

Thats why i bought these 2860-5 turbos, they match with healthy 600hp.

 

If youre telling me that 600hp is complete bullshit and complete not driveable on the street, then i belive you.

We have maybe 10 260z in Germany and not one is driving on high hp, so i cant ask someone else here.

 

Which R200 do i need? We had some Z32 300ZX TT Nissans here and the diffs are really cheap.

Isnt it possible to get an oil cooler to the R180 diff like on a Supra TT EU-Spec?

Is it possible to get an installation kit for a R33 Gtst Skyline Diff? Ratio would fit to my gearbox, it can handle 600hp and most important: I have one here :wink:

 

Eddie

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If you really ahve 600hp then the R200 is the only way to go. Add the Quaife or better yet, the OS Giken Super Lock and Todd's CV shafts.

Which R200 do you reccommend? I'm still deciding which way to go. I have a low milage original R200 in my 260Z (78 UK model) and I'm wondering if this is ok to use (around 250hp for a while but want it capable for my future plans so has to be able to cope with around 400hp) along with a Kazz LSD and wolf creek cv conversion or am I better to get an R200 from something which already came with cv's like a 240SX/R32 Skyline/300ZX? Which would obviously be a shortnose and also require a longer driveshaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With regards to Quaifes, they are very strong and the one in my FWD works really well but from what I've read about them in rwd's they aren't so good in very hard cornering when compared to a clutch type due to how they react when you get one wheel lifting off.

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Your R200 should be fine for you anticipated use. One thing to keep in mind - your ring gear bolts are 10mm and most aftermarket diffs (Kazz, OSG, Quaife) have the flange drilled for 12mm or 13mm. You'll need a bushing to take up the difference.

 

The Quaife (and most other helical LSDs) must have a torque load on each wheel for them to work properly. If you lift an inside wheel (FWD or RWD) the diff will go open and spin the inside wheel. You have to run the suspension on the driven end of the car soft to prevent that from happening. For a FWD is advantageous to run the front soft. For a RWD car driving style has to change to work with a soft rear suspension needed to keep from lifting the inside rear wheel.

 

You can artificiality correct for this in the Quaife by adding preload but that creates more heat and slightly more abrupt behavior and doesn't really fix the problem. My Rusty Old Datsun ran Quaifes and it worked well, mostly because I had $10,000 in Penske shocks on the car. I could run with a 14mm rear anti-roll bar and use the low speed compression damping in the shocks to control chassis roll.

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Your R200 should be fine for you anticipated use. One thing to keep in mind - your ring gear bolts are 10mm and most aftermarket diffs (Kazz, OSG, Quaife) have the flange drilled for 12mm or 13mm. You'll need a bushing to take up the difference.

It does say that its for an S30 R200 application so I would hope that it for the 10mm bolts but I will definitly be checking up on this. If I have to use a bushing will this have downsides, such as making it weaker/more likely to fail? Also how hard is it to get a bushing that will fit correctly?

 

 

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

 

 

 

The Quaife (and most other helical LSDs) must have a torque load on each wheel for them to work properly. If you lift an inside wheel (FWD or RWD) the diff will go open and spin the inside wheel. You have to run the suspension on the driven end of the car soft to prevent that from happening. For a FWD is advantageous to run the front soft. For a RWD car driving style has to change to work with a soft rear suspension needed to keep from lifting the inside rear wheel.
Thats why it works well in my EF9, it will never lift the inside front wheel so theres always a torque load. But I've seen photos of 240/260Zs lifting a rear wheel in hard tight corners which is why I fancy going for a clutch type on mine.
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If I have to use a bushing will this have downsides, such as making it weaker/more likely to fail? Also how hard is it to get a bushing that will fit correctly?

 

The bushing reduces the chance of failure. Sourcing the bushing is fairly easy, although they are not cheap. I use cast hard bronze bushings.

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  • 5 months later...

I bought the installation parts from TechnoToy and a complete rear frame from a R33 Gts-t Skyline from England.

The parts will arrive in the next week, if its interesting for anybody i can picture them and let you know about the installation.

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  • 7 months later...

I can second that the R200 can take the abuse. My setup is similar in horsepower and probably makes a bit more torque. I am running an R200 with the OS Giken. I had it rebuilt with 3.15 gears. I dont have the CV conversion, I just had my half shafts rebuilt with heavy duty U-joints and they seem to be holding up. I love the OS Giken, best LSD I have ever driven.

 

 

Matt

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