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SUNNY Z

Ford 8.8 IRS Conversion

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I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

 

Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years :)

 

Danno74Z

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This is the solution to my diff mount loosening itself.

 

2 pieces of 1/4"x 2" strap welded to the crossmember. Seems to have eliminated my nasty 2nd gear wheel hop as well. I hope I don't have to take it out, because it was a PITA to put in..... even on my buddy's lift.

 

IMG_20130709_222654_093_zps9e080935.jpg

Edited by SUNNY Z

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I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

 

Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years :)

 

Danno74Z

Thanks I just placed my order.

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This is the solution to my diff mount loosening itself.

 

2 pieces of 1/4"x 2" strap welded to the crossmember. Seems to have eliminated my nasty 2nd gear wheel hop as well. I hope I don't have to take it out, because it was a PITA to put in..... even on my buddy's lift.

 

IMG_20130709_222654_093_zps9e080935.jpg

Looks meaty enough, great idea.

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Looks meaty enough, great idea.

 

This bracing helped greatly, but made it a huge PITA to put in. Also, I noticed the last time i put it in that there is still a substantial amount of flex in this mount setup. I plan on making a new cage for this diff over the winter, and including more body mounting points to hopefully make it solid!

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Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me.

 

I'd suggest saving these.....

 

881_zps9a6a6cc4.jpg

 

882_zps5ff4afc8.jpg

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For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

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Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me.

 

I'd suggest saving these.....

 

881_zps9a6a6cc4.jpg

 

882_zps5ff4afc8.jpg

 

For future record, I've got them saved now, and I'm the type that backs things up like a paranoid conspiracy theorist. Oh, and thank you for all your hard work. This is a serious contribution to the community that seems all too rare.

 

For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

 

Intense! Overall that's pretty impressive I think. It's always a good sign you've engineered your drivetrain well when the chassis becomes a limiting factor...

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For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

Just to be clear for those who don't know, the cracks in the A pillars and C pillars are from the lead filler in the joint. It's not a structural crack in the sheet metal. And they occur on all S30s.

Edited by rturbo 930

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I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build.  Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently?  I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches.  The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop.  Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience?  

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I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build.  Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently?  I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches.  The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop.  Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience?  

 

Don't make the front mount as simple as I made mine.  With the shorter nose on the diff, it just turns the mount into a lever, and tries to push up whenever you accelerate.  I would build somewhat of a pinion snubber that attaches to the body, and limits travel in the up direction with a bushing.  Other than that, get your wheels where you want them before you build, if you decide to position them in the center of the wheel well like I did. Will help keep your axle angles correct.

Edited by SUNNY Z

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