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How to make a fuel rail for $60


joelrs7

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I made a fuel rail for my 280z turbo and it was easy and came out great. I wanted to tell you guys how I did it to help anybody out who wants to do it. First go to jegs.com and buy a stick of 2ft fuel rail for rougly $33 plus $10 shipping. Once you receive the rail cut it down to 20 inches and file the end down to make it nice smooth and even. Once it is cut make your marks on where your injectors will need to go. Once you make your marks I recommend wrapping your fuel rail and putting it in a clamp and using a drill press for nice straight accurate holes. Try to get it as accurate as possible but remember it does not have to be perfect because the injectors are flexible. Once you make your holes tap the 6 to 1/4 national pipe thread and the 2 on the side to 3/8 national pipe thread. The most important part is putting the barbs in. Go to your auto parts store and get 8 barbs that will fit 5/16 fuel hose,and some pentax liquid teflon this will run you about $17 dollars. Now put on your liquid teflon on the thread of your barbs and only tighten them to where they are hand tight half way. Now for the important part. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BARBS. Take your wrench and tighten them to about 2/3 of the way in, they do not need to be tightened down all the way. Bam you have your fuel rail! I also would recommend putting your injectors on the fuel rail before you attach it to the manifold. I hope this helps!

Edited by joelrs7
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Kick ass, you got some pics? What was the spacing between the bores for the injector barbs?

 

I made a fuel rail for my 280z turbo and it was easy and came out great. I wanted to tell you guys how I did it to help anybody out who wants to do it. First go to jegs.com and buy a stick of 2ft fuel rail for rougly $33 plus $10 shipping. Once you receive the rail cut it down to 20 inches and file the end down to make it nice smooth and even. Once it is cut make your marks on where your injectors will need to go. Once you make your marks I recommend wrapping your fuel rail and putting it in a clamp and using a drill press for nice straight accurate holes. Try to get it as accurate as possible but remember it does not have to be perfect because the injectors are flexible. Once you make your holes tap the 6 to 1/4 national pipe thread and the 2 on the side to 3/8 national pipe thread. The most important part is putting the barbs in. Go to your auto parts store and get 8 barbs that will fit 5/16 fuel hose,and some pentax liquid teflon this will run you about $17 dollars. Now put on your liquid teflon on the thread of your barbs and only tighten them to where they are hand tight half way. Now for the important part. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BARBS. Take your wrench and tighten them to about 2/3 of the way in, they do not need to be tightened down all the way. Bam you have your fuel rail! I also would recommend putting your injectors on the fuel rail before you attach it to the manifold. I hope this helps!

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The statement of "it does not have to be perfect, the injectors are flexible" IS NOT true, if you are using O-ring fuel injectors. Less than 0.5mm runout or you'll have fuel leakages.

 

For the hosebarb type, yeah, it'll work.

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The statement of "it does not have to be perfect, the injectors are flexible" IS NOT true, if you are using O-ring fuel injectors. Less than 0.5mm runout or you'll have fuel leakages.

 

For the hosebarb type, yeah, it'll work.

 

Yes of course Xnke. Sorry I should have clarified that it was only relating to a barbed fuel rail.

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So using non O Ring injectors gives you some leeway on bore spacing having to be exact?

 

On a Turbo or EFI set up can you deadhead the rail or do you need a return line?

Yes, you can be off by an 1/8" or so before it's a problem. And you need a return line if you want to regulate the pressure.

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"Now put on your liquid teflon on the thread of your barbs and only tighten them to where they are hand tight half way. Now for the important part. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BARBS. Take your wrench and tighten them to about 2/3 of the way in, they do not need to be tightened down all the way."

The industry standard translation of this is "from finger-tight, turn 3/4 to 1 turn -- 270-360 degrees -- more" and leave them be for the anaerobic sealant to set and seal."

Overtightening NPT threads is a primary cause for leakage as some on this thread can attest!

I believe it was "Permatex" as well, and not "Pentax"---this is equivalent to Loctite PST 567 or similar.

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