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1976 280z Rb25 Build


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Nice work bud

Out of curiosity, why did you decide on the rb

And I may have missed it in your first posts but are you going for factory stock look?

 

 

PS I'm (or used to be) a cbr rider too :)

Thanks,

 

I had my mind set of an RB long before I picked up the Z. I love the durability and sound of the 25's.

 

As far as the looks go I plan to do a top mount hx40, FMIC, FReddy intake. 3in exhaust.

 

What size cbr did ride?

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Thanks,

 

I had my mind set of an RB long before I picked up the Z. I love the durability and sound of the 25's.

 

As far as the looks go I plan to do a top mount hx40, FMIC, FReddy intake. 3in exhaust.

 

What size cbr did ride?

 

Gotcha.

Curious cuz I'm putting an SR into mine.

 

lol a little misunderstanding, I was asking about the look of the car like interior and such.

 

I had an '07 600rr.... ("the white one" haha)

I miss it. Had to sell to fund this project.   -_-

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I sold my Kawi 600 to help fund my Z lol.

 

 

Gotcha.

Curious cuz I'm putting an SR into mine.

 

lol a little misunderstanding, I was asking about the look of the car like interior and such.

 

I had an '07 600rr.... ("the white one" haha)

I miss it. Had to sell to fund this project.   -_-

Rich want kind of kawi did you have? I originally wanted a 636 but couldn’t find one in my area, ended up finding one a few hours away and the geometry of the bike didn’t fit me as well as the CBR's. Tervanun the white ones are sick my friend has a white 08, would have looked for a one if he didnt have one already. Glad of my choice though I love my bike too much to ever sell it.

 

Interior wise pretty much stock, was planning to go fully stripped since I had little to nothing for the interior, but I came across a bunch of interior pieces that were practically free and in mint condition so I almost have an entire setup just need to find a template for the rear wood so I can make one. Plan to restore the dash similar to rich racing, typical cracks that they all get. Haven’t decided on which seats I want to go with, maybe s2000? I have a dash cap from the previous owner but we all know how those look but it’s something in the meantime. Plan to recover the old door panels or I might just buy a pair from pete and paul on here for the amount of work the price is very appealing, alot  days of trial and error that could be spent doing something else.

 

Exterior, Im going to run around in primer flat olive drab until I can afford to buy paint. I plan to go grey code A39 which is EVO 8 Graphite Grey eventually. Xenon urethane air dam. Set of diamond 15X10 all around for autox and going to get something else in the 16x9 area for daily so I can get more street able wide tires. Cars about as low as I can go without cutting fenders, and still able to get in and out of most driveways, although the front fenders will rub when turning with the l28 so I might have to trim for the rb we'll see if not just cut away the inner lip, hopefully not, I don’t want to run flares unless I have to.

 

My Bike,

Stock except I cut open the stock pipe and made my own baffle design, sounds pretty good at WOT. No real plans for this thing I dont want to drop a bunch of money into it since a 1000 is not much more.

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Made a sketch of the oil pan I need to fab up. Pretty straight forward. Kick out, wind age tray, trap door style baffle. 19 gauge steel to match stock pan thickness. Itll test my tig skills, alot of little intricate parts. Ill keep you updated. I ran out of cereal box to finish the paper template but its close enough to pull a rough template.

 

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I didn't want to sell mine at all. I put something like 15k miles on her since I got her. Knew that bike like my own legs.

Sure did make momma happy though telling her I sold it haha.

 

I'm trying to make my 240 as light as I can without making radical changes.  I'm gonna try finding an aftermarket heater and blower that's

lighter than the crap they put in these things. I'm gonna save another 40lbs just taking off the PS and AC off the SR so that was pretty sweet.

And then theres the 30 lb dash.......

I'm thinking about making my own glass or carbon dash and using my new cover that the car came with as a mould.

I've worked with carbon before and actually made a pretty decent seat from scratch for a completely different application......

That being said, I can't justify spending 450 bucks on the glass dash that that company sells.

Not sure about the rest of the interior.....the vinyl doesn't weight much so I may replace that.....As for the skins.....I'm ditching the stock ones...too heavy,

maybe I'll make my own down the road.... Then there's the steering column....

The seats, I got some grey market sparco's off Zilvia.net on a lucky find of a group buy so that was cool. less than 400 for the pair with rails...though I'm having

doubts about the heavy steel rails haha

 

Funny you mentioned the olive drab....I'm doing a camo green plasti-dip with a whole bunch of clearcoat on top

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Not much action with the build right now, I have a winterim class that started up on the 2nd and its important for my major so yeah..

 

Work has started on the oil pan, I might put a couple hours into it tomorrow depending on how many chapters I have to read. I not to pick up some tubing thats big enough for my 10mm socket so I can make the kickout. Pictures Tomorrow

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So I had a little free time to get the pan a little closer to finished, at about 40% welded. Still need to make a baffle system, dipstick, and windage tray. The first pic gives the appearance that the ends are lower, I assure you that is not the case and just appears that way everything is slightly slanted toward the hull.

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  • 1 month later...

So its been forever since I posted anything due to my college research project. I spent the few free hours I had wiring up the car. I have decided to re wire the entire car so I still have the body loom to build, shouldnt be to difficult, the engine loom was very straight forward. I have since decided to re build my oil pan, I liked everything about it execpt for the fact I couldnt get the engine in the car with it on due to the cross member. So Im going to re-design it so it is similar to the sr20 oil. A two peice design should fix the problem. Not sure how soon Ill be able to get this finished due to up and coming projects but I have not given up or stoppped working on this. Stay tuned, once the pan is finished I can post a start up video.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 7 months later...

So oddly enough this marks a year since I have last posted on this forum. I have been away for about 8 months on a field camp for my geology major in New Mexico and Arizona. I last worked on the datsun in march, here is the progress I made but was unable to post.

Edited by slammed_s30
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So with the frame issues all resolved I focused on getting the engine started as quickly as possible, using this forum along with a handful of skyline forms I managed to figure it out in a few days and somehow this happened.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnA33pXGxis&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

 

I didn’t run it long as it was nowhere near ready for that.

 

This wraps up 2013 for this build, as I got back mid November I started work on it once again in the middle of January.

Edited by slammed_s30
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So my goal is for the car to be running, driving and road legal by my birthday April 24th, not done just road worthy, tested and ready to go as I want to take it to the twin cities for a car show on April 26th. I will focus on wiring, bodywork and engine odds and ends.

 

Currently I have pulled the engine and trans to help as I stripped the entire car of its existing wiring harness, have thrown it in a box and never plan to look at it again. Why you may ask, well, being that car was some ones future race endeavor most the remaining harness was well not what I needed. So I pulled it all and ordered this.

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Now its by no means a plug an play harness, actually it barely works for the Datsun, its meant to be run of the drivers side and the wires are set up to be run through GM equipment so a lot of comparing diagrams to figure out how to make Nissan parts work the same as GM parts.

I have built a fuse panel holder under the driver’s side dash since lengthening all the wires was not a road I was going to venture down, I have also decide to attempt to de-clutter the steering column a bit and relocated the ignition cylinder to the cig lighter location.

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In between waiting for various electrical parts in the mail I managed to mount up my radiator and intercooler. The radiator is for a 240sx and is about a ¼’’ too wide for the 280z frame rail so they required slight notching for clearance.

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That brings me up to about Wednesday of last week, I will have to post pictures tomorrow of what I have completed thus far as I do not have anything to show other than this is in my possession for the RB25, was at a price I couldn’t pass up. Got me pretty motivated and really was the whole reason I pulled this project out for the other garage and started working on it again.

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Thought I would do i quick update to keep the thread fresh.

 

Only had Wednesday afternoon and Thursday evening to do anything, I managed to finish the lighting electrical portion of the car, everything is working good, couple hiccups here and there dealing with a harness built for gm switches. Everything connection has been or is in the process of being switched to a amp connector, similar to a delphi weatherpack but much cheaper. All wires will eventually run through braided nylon loom I have the main runners taken care of, just the shorter section under the dash left.  I thought I had the intercooler mounted in its final position last week, adding the hood hinges changed that idea quickly. So I had to do some adjusting to make everything fit but it all clears. I also mounted the front air dam, had been stressing over this, turned out good.

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Edited by slammed_s30
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Yesterday I just about finished up my relief area for the throttle body, the way I postioned the engine in the engine bay was fine for the stock throttle body, when I added the q45 the springs touched ever so slightly, knowing that things rotate and flex due to torque I gave it enough room To move however it pleases, although I dont think its doing anywhere with poly-urathane bushings. I had to spend all of today working on homework so I dont get backed up, I  have about 15 minutes of sanding left in the corners. I also picked up some toyota 4x4 calipers, 15/16 master cylinder, and hawk HPS pads so this thing can stop alittle better.

 

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Edited by slammed_s30
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  • 1 month later...

So I bought some more things today, all the heim joint and bungs I will need to make the control arms above. Along with some schedule 40 pipe, which is .133 wall so plenty thick.

Also my gauges came in yesterday

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Fuel Sender
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The bezel they will sit in
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Also picked up a turbo, just a little guy. Few guys making upwards of 750whp with these on the 25, most are around the 400-500whp range. Sent the internals off for balancing, will rebuild it once they return. Being a HX35, it is twin scroll so I will keep it so. I may or may not attempt to make a quick spool valve for this thing. I will be making a manifold for it to utilize the twin scroll, 1 1/4'' is stock and seems that most of the after market big money manifolds are the same size, the cheap ebay mani's are 1 7/8'' or there about. Placement will be the hardest part, not alot of room will be left with everything stuffed in the engine bay.

I cleaned it up a bit from when I bought it from zach, and removed brackets for all the attachments shaving about a pound that the manifold will have to support.
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Ill also be picking up a precision 46mm WG and a tial qr sport, they type that recirculates because im staying MAF. I also plan to get some deatsch werks 740cc, all the flow calc ive used say these will give me the power Im looking for in both gas and e85 at or under 80% duty. Clutch wise I will be getting a spec 2+ good for 415 tq which is much more then I will ever have, being my goal whp is just shy of 400.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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