rossman Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 You are really doing some great stuff down there. Thanks for sharing and participating in these forums. +1 I'm really enjoying this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 At the shop we made a new front for the TC head , with built in oil ways and drysump pump with a water pump that will be driven of the cam belt thought id show the world .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) Back on topic hears the front of the 3.4 with EWP not my thing but he wanted one, also he wanted gears not guides , so some changes to my norm but we will see how they work on the dyno . Edited February 12, 2013 by PMC raceengines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob-omb Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 73491_479450065436699_1195855069_n1.jpg537902_479450155436690_593148167_n1.jpgBack on topic hears the front of the 3.4 with EWP not my thing but he wanted one, also he wanted gears not guides , so some changes to my norm but we will see how they work on the dyno . Pete, given your experience, what is your opinion of gear-vs.-guide timing chain tensioners? I always thought gears seemed like a better engineering practice, but guides are still used in modern high performance engines that utilize chain-driven timing. What's your verdict regarding the L-engine? Improvement overall? Only worth getting 1000/1000ths out of a high-powered race engine? Not worth it regardless? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 i think Datsun did ok with the guides lol the best hp engine we have built still uses guides , there simple and they work and there cheep . The only time the gear set works well is when the head and or block has been shaved to far for the guide to work the way it should , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 i think Datsun did ok with the guides lol the best hp engine we have built still uses guides , there simple and they work and there cheep . The only time the gear set works well is when the head and or block has been shaved to far for the guide to work the way it should , How far do you consider too far, Peter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 "So that the guide doesn't work any more!" He was quite clear on that point! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) "So that the guide doesn't work any more!" He was quite clear on that point! LOL Goodbye. I thought someone may find PETERS answer interesting. Life is too short for your sarcastic BS. Edited February 16, 2013 by Z Greek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 OK when the chain changes it path after leaving the guide , its to far , the chain must not rub across the top of the guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Goodbye. I thought someone may find PETERS answer interesting. Life is too short for your sarcastic BS. Tony is filled with just as much useful information as PMC, though he doesn't give it out unless your homework has been done (reading). And yes, he is filled with constructive criticism mushed together with sarcasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) I thought it was funny as hell, I wasn't aware Z Greek was so easily butthurt. (With that screen name perhaps one assumes too much regarding penetrating satire...) Christ, if I wanted to be sarcastic the little effin' SMILEY and "LOL" wouldn't be appended in the end, together with actually having BEEN sarcastic. I sent a PM: ZGreek, go to the upper right of the screen while logged in. Click on your profile. Click on "manage ignore prefs". PUT MY NAME IN YOUR IGNORE LIST SO I NEVER OFFEND YOUR PANSY SENSITIVITIES EVER AGAIN!!!! There is no excuse for you to write what you did in response to my post. Ignore my content from this point forward. ************************************************ "I thought more people would like to know about this option, since so many whiney noobs take offence to banter or jokes posted by senior contributors that they can glean information from only their own ilk and not risk their delicate sensibilities being offended." Edited February 18, 2013 by Tony D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 OK when the chain changes it path after leaving the guide , its to far , the chain must not rub across the top of the guide Thanks Peter, I already knew the answer from our correspondence, I just thought others may find it interesting that you can get away with quite a bit of head and or block shaving and not have to resort to cam tower shims as the only way to take up chain slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 Well i just finished the dyno work on this build , some things realy made me think ,,, why do people fit some things . this engine had a msd 6 with the programable ignition map, EWP, and twin idler gear setup , how did it go , well it was down 30hp on the normal engine we build and we tryed so hard to make it work ,i made many maps for the ignition and tryed jeting it till i was getting very upset , Power was 331hp at 6300 and fell over it would pull to 7700 no problem but lost 15hp , The engines before this went to 7500 before falling over but would pull to 8000 no problem making 360hp@ 7500 and 288ftlb at 5700 So after 2 days trying we said lets fit it with stock guides and our distributer and a stock waterpump , what happend First run with the same timing 12 to 34 , the engine went 365 and 8000 rpm , it left a line over the last engine on the dyno like it was ment to same torque as normal 288 and just went to 8000 like it was ment to , so dont wast your cash there is nothing wrong with the nissan guides and water pump , Would i use the msd again ,,, maybe it had a smoth torque run through 3000 to 5500 it looked smother on the dyno , there was not a lot in it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Well i just finished the dyno work on this build , some things realy made me think ,,, why do people fit some things . this engine had a msd 6 with the programable ignition map, EWP, and twin idler gear setup , how did it go , well it was down 30hp on the normal engine we build and we tryed so hard to make it work ,i made many maps for the ignition and tryed jeting it till i was getting very upset , So after 2 days trying we said lets fit it with stock guides and our distributer and a stock waterpump , what happend so dont wast your cash there is nothing wrong with the nissan guides and water pump , As is quite often the case, what you write doesn't really add up. In what way could the Kameari Twin Idler cam chain tensioner be responsible for any of what you describe above? It's not a power adder ( it was not designed to be ) but by the same token I don't think I've heard any stories where people fitted one to an engine and then found they had less power than before ( unless they messed up their cam timing whilst fitting it.... ). It sounds to me like the Kameari Twin Idler kit is suffering from 'Not Made Here' syndrome when it goes through the doors of your 'shop. From what you describe above, the most likely candidate to point the finger at for your power difference is the distributor. No surprise to find that "our" distributor is superior ( funny that.... ). Unless of course the big secret with these engines turns out to be the genuine OEM water pumps..... Edited April 7, 2013 by HS30-H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 If you read it i said the dissy and msd was ok and was smother than other products and i was saying there was no point fitting the other parts as the nissan parts did the job , better than the aftermarket parts , i know you have there parts on your engine , good for you mate , i wont be on my engines , you can build them any way you want . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 And yes the water pump made a huge difrance because the engine would not take timing as it got hot in the head . But you would know all about it im sure . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 Thats it for me on this site i give up trying to be nice to people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I think things get a little confusing when you didn't clearly say what was causing the power loss in the first message. You did include the info in your second message. It seems the aftermarket waterpump was causing the engine to heat up excessively, plus the ------ distributor i was using was breaking up prematurely and so on and so on. The stock waterpump and chain guides from nissan work with no problems. I'm just going to stay with ------ distributor from now on. Personally i will never be able to do the work that you do and have been doing with these engines. I have been an auto technician for 30 years, and couldn't afford to do it either. But i do like to read your messages and learn about the capabilities of the L series engines. I think the work you do is incredible and would hate to see you leave because of a misunderstanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Haha god tony you need a kit!!! as it is missing in the collection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 i know you have there parts on your engine , good for you mate , i wont be on my engines , you can build them any way you want . As a matter of fact, I don't use ANY Kameari Engine Works parts on any of my engines. Ironic, isn't it? But I've known Mr Mori and KEW for many years, respect him and his products, and have listened intently whilst he explained and demonstrated the reasons for developing the Twin Idler cam tensioner system some years ago. I know many people who use the Twin Idler, they have been used in endurance racing and rallying ( including the classic East African Safari Rally ) and I've yet to hear a bad word about them from anyone who's opinion is worth listening to. I've got no problem with you saying that you would prefer not to use the Twin Idler ( build them any way you want.... ) but linking it to a power loss - as you did above - and calling it a "waste of money" sounds like politics to me. Kameari don't have a presence on this forum to defend themselves, so I'll do it for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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