BluDestiny Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) I'm thinking the oil out your downpipe could be from not a big enough oil return. That will blow your seal. Damn xnke beat me to it. No your turbo is probably fine if the car hasn't actually idled. As for the AFM it shouldn't cause the car to not run. It will run with a bad afm, just not run well. At least if it's anything like an NA afm Edited May 7, 2013 by BluDestiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Nah, it's probably ok. Just fix the drain line and it should clear the oil out in a few minutes of run time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 OK thanks! This is the AFM I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ok I have tried with the effort of my dad and cannot make any head way. Found a local guy that has done these swaps and am taking it to him. He says should be no problem to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Ok,, updates. Took car to shop, Shop said I was a tooth off on the cam gear. Maybe maybe not. He stopped there and I brought the car home. Looked at it for a few more days and finally figured it out. The PVC hole on the underside of the N42 intake manifold. It was wide open no plug..... DUH. Plugged it and car fired right up and idled with no problem. So, tried the transmission and nothing. The clutch did not work. Had to pull the tranny out because the collar is the wrong one. Xnke sent the tranny with the correct one but my dad said it was the tall one. Anyway we pulled the tranny out and re-installed and the tranny works great. Brakes seem a little week. So I have to work on that. Other issue is the turbo is dumping oil. Seems I did not put the restrictor in the turbo oil feed line. So here is a little run of the car. Started and backed out of the garage and back in. Smoking to much from the oil seal issue. Ordering one tomorrow and will have fixed soon. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/20130527_120834_zps7c6c607b.mp4.html Well by the end of the week should have it all buttoned up. I did get the wiring on the passenger side all tucked away nice and tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) Well oil leaking out the turbo down thru the down pipe. Seemed to stop when I made a restrictor plate, took flat aluminum stock cut out a plate to fit the turbo inlet. Then drilled a .065 hole bolted it back in. But, one of the gaskets are leaking. So will remove tomorrow and reinstall with 2 new gaskets. Drove the car, man that turbo really sings with no back pressure, I don't have any exhaust from the down pipe back. Once I fix the oil leak off to the muffler shop. Here is a shot of my dad driving the car. The camera didnt start until after he was trying to slow down but you get a good idea of the turbo sound. Still burning off the oil in the turbo and the leak that is coming off the input line of the turbo. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/20130528_190443_zpsa9c4c0ee.mp4.html Brakes are really firm but felt like there is no boost to them. So took the one way valve off and guess what, its backwards. So I will re-install the correct way and drive it tomorrow. I installed the Aem O2 bung in the exhaust pipe. So now I need to install the air/fuel and boost gauge. I cut a 1 3/4 " below the clutch master cylinder and ran the ECCS wires into the engine compartment. Mounted the ECCS on the left wall . Here are pics. Edited May 29, 2013 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Sounds like an L6 - love that turbine noise. Way to go. I tucked my ECU up under the hood release cable. I also had to keep the plugs & sockets pointed out - my stock ECU had been dripped on for years apparently. The pins and plugs were really corroded. I had the worst time trying to get them clean and every-now-and-again I'd have to reach down and jiggle the wires to keep the engine running properly - fought with it for months after the swap. Glad I don't have to worry about that anymore... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Yeah I tried to push mine up there, didnt seem to work. The way I have it the ECU plugs are held in by the fire wall. I was able to get 2 of the 3 screws in to hold it in place. On another note. I took the Turbo off. Took it to a guy that some friends of my Dads recommended. The turbo is junk. Previous owner or someone had replaced the bearings but when the prior bearings went bad it ruined the blades. They are all rolled over. The seal is toast as well as the shaft. He says he has some parts laying around for this. He is going to see what he can do. Says it will be less than $300. He was saying that I wasnt getting but about 60% of the boost out of the turbo. When I drove it there was definitely a lay over once it started to boost. He should have it done by monday. Will report then. Took me 10 minutes to take it off probably take 3 times that long to get it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Dang it, Ok so had the turbo rebuilt. New shafts, bearings seals, turbines. Everything but the housings. So put it back on, fired it up and took it for a ride. All was good. Made 2 laps around the block. Stopped picked my dad up and we made it half way around and it died. Looked and the fusible link was blown. Burnt thru the cover as well, dang it. Now all we did was remove turbo and re-install it. So I start unplugging all extras, first fuel Stock low pressure pump. Still blows fuse. Unplug the extra gauges, still blows a fuse. Also blew the 20a fuse for the tail lights during this. Getting some hot wires under dash in the passenger foot well. Any help suggestions would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Ouch... Well, the first thought that popped into my head was: "why is he using a stock 260Z fuel pump on his turbo engine?" (I know you have an EFI fuel pump also - just use it, 86 the stock pump...) But that probably has nothing to do with your current issue. Sounds like a short (or shorts)... First. The harnesses are fairly well protected unless someone has damaged them or changed something in the stock routing that would cause them to "chafe" - like running unprotected through a bulkhead (hole in the metal, rubbing on the wire insulation until it gets all the way through to the copper) SO After you check all your fusable links (and figure out which each one "feeds"), and your fuse block for oxidized contacts, (They're made of brass - if they don't look like clean brass anymore - that's right, clean them... Fusable link spades too.) Start checking all your wiring changes. Next - might have nothing to do with you after all - the PO(s) may have left you with a surprise or two or three. You have some "hot" (+12V, not warm) wiring that's not connected or protected properly - disconnected but able to make contact - OR connected improperly in the first place. May be simple, may require an in-depth knowledge of the wiring diagram. I doubt there's a magic bullet for this one. Start posting pics of what's melted - along with some "context" (wire location, color, harness, components nearby). If you've got a temp gun, start finding the exact wire or wires that are heating up. Head to the FSM & wiring diagram (or individual circuit diagrams in the FSM). Could be resistance, could be short... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Stopped picked my dad up and we made it half way around and it died. Looked and the fusible link was blown......Getting some hot wires under dash in the passenger foot well. ... Any help suggestions would be great! I'm going to guess that your dad has big feet. Check where they've been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Ok so narrowed it to the rear window defogger. As soon as I pull that fuse out and put a new fusible link in now issues. Here is a pic of the damage. You can also see that the fuse blew on the tail light holder in the fuse box. You can see it started to melt the plastic holders for the prongs. So I need to do some back tracing trough those wires. Car starts and runs and drives, took it to the muffler shop and will work on the wiring after I get it back. Going to try to take it to the alignment shop today as well. If I have time. This is one thing I noticed under the dash. Looks like someone did some extra curricular wiring and soldering. You can see it at the top of the picture. It looks like a black with yellow traced wire that has been spliced back together with green wire. I will back trace those to see why this was done. Well anyways back on the road and running. Boost gauge hit 6 lbs so far. I havent really ran it hard yet. The tach is not working so Have to figure that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Black/Yellow is probably the start signal to the starter solenoid. If so, it'll go from the IGN switch to the dash harness to the connector block and Yellow out to the starter solenoid IIRC. Lots of trouble with the start signal in these early Z's (too much resistance, so the voltage drops along that stretch of wire until it's not quite enough to pull in the starter solenoid anymore. comon problem - you'll see multiple posts about the issue) Anyway, it wouldn't be a shock to see that modified around a crimp connection - that's where most of the trouble comes from... Looks like that's what the PO may have done - (soldered / jumpered around a crimp - may have saved you a starter problem...) Just make sure that exposed wiring is well insulated (covered, not protected from the heat or cold... ) You're getting the hang of this stuff - way to go. Edited June 4, 2013 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Got the exhaust done today and a final alignment. I put on new tie rod ends on as well. One issue on the front alignment. They could not get the camber in spec. Ended up with -1, they said it should be 1 to 1.2. I am learning what all those numbers mean so will see. The front suspension is all stock. I will save up my money for adj lower front control arms. Had an ongoing issue with the fuel pump I have going from the fuel tank to the surge tank, it would quite suppling the surge tank. Old pump so I replaced and seems to work great. When I was driving around with old pump the air/fuel gauge would read lean on cruise modes and this seems to help this problem. Well I blew another fuse for the tail lights. I lost my dash lights, windshield wiper as well! Thats my challenge the rest of this week. Fix these little gremlins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 -1 camber in the front is not bad, it will make cornering more fun. As long as the toe is close to 0 and the caster is the same on both sides and allows you to fully turn the wheel lock to lock your golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 lock to lock is good. woke up this morning and battery is dead. Think i have a drain which could be part of the problems i am having with wirirng Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.