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Before rewiring basically everything, I am making a switch panel to control all of my circuits.

I am also making a panel of circuit breakers in the glove box with maybe a battery shut off switch also.

 

Here is the plan so far:

 

Top buttons - Headlights, tail lights, Interior lights (if I ever get one)

Middle area - push button start, ignition power

Lower area - Fuel pump, Radiator fan, not sure what else

 

I will post the final results soon.

 

Any suggestions on how to divide my lighting circuits? or for the panel?

I was going to do the left separate from the right side, same as the stock fusebox.

 

FYI - Its for a 71 240z with a 350 chevy. I have no wipers, heater, or AC

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when i rewire z's, and I have done more than a dozen, i like to use plenty of relays as you are describing. I build a relay block and locate them all in one place, typically under the dash passenger side. Glove box would also work however you dont really need to get to them often when it's done correctly.

Typically I use headlight relays (2), horn(1), turn signal (2), fuel pump (1), ignition relay(1), optional brake light (1), optional starter (1), and for an efi car I include: coil pack relay (1), ecu relay (1), and injector relay (1). as I said , these can go out of sight, just well labeled and organized. The new fuse blocks you may want to have more accessible.

 

as far as lighting circuits, on a new fuse block you can get away with one 30 amp circuit for headlihgts. If you want to split into two circuits(l&r) you probably need to add an additional relay to the lighting design to control the individual light circuits together. maybe not though.

 

for the panel, I suggest that you keep it simple, clean and uncluttered. what ever layout you like, but less is more.

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thanks for the advice. 

Do you recommend TXL or GXL wires?

I want to keep it simple, so instead of a bunch of different gauges, i want to stick to 2 gauges (plus battery cable of course)... like a 12ga for most things and 16ga for the small stuff like turn signal switches, etc..

Do you think that should be able to cover everything?

 

FYI - 72 240z , 350 chevy engine, carb, no AC, no wipers, no heater, no blower motor, no stereo.

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In the Engine bay I recommend SXL.  Under the dash you can get away with TXL or even PCV insulated wire.  I personally use SXL on everything.  For relay control you can use 18ga.  harnesses add weight, so if you are ok with x lbs more weight when you are done, using a heavier guage wire is ok. 

 

However if it were me, I would do things a bit different. 

Low current control circuits 18ga.(guages, interior lighting)  

med current lighting 14ga (parking lights, wipers, cig outlets)

High current circuits 10ga.  (headlights, fans, fuel pumps, amps)

Power distribution 2 or 4 ga.  (alternator, starter, battery, fuseblocks)

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I use auto resetting circuit breakers in my power distribution block.  General consensus is you should not use auto-resetting, but yours are manual resetting so I think you are fine. 

 

I mounted my circuit breakers in the engine bay. 

 

I must ask, why are you putting all your electrical controls on the center console?  Don't like the factory switches?  Building a racecar? 

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The reason that I want to do all this work is that the wires around the steering column and also in the engine bay are a mess of spliced, and bare wires.  

Some of the insulation has actually melted off, so something is not right.

The ignition switch gets so hot that you cannot touch it after about 30 minutes.

Also, since I removed the wipers, blower motor, and a bunch of other useless things, I would just like to simplify everything. .. oh.. .and my turn signals and brake lights don't work, so it would make driving a lot easier... haha.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its nice to have the ability to bump and crank the engine with ignition off for maintenance.

Putting a guard on your start switch?

I also have an alternator idiot light next to alternator switch and a big oil pressure light at the top.

My "Master" switch enables a bit Battery Relay and I left a provision for an external kill switch for future racing compliance.

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

when i rewire z's, and I have done more than a dozen, i like to use plenty of relays as you are describing. I build a relay block and locate them all in one place, typically under the dash passenger side. Glove box would also work however you dont really need to get to them often when it's done correctly.

Typically I use headlight relays (2), horn(1), turn signal (2), fuel pump (1), ignition relay(1), optional brake light (1), optional starter (1), and for an efi car I include: coil pack relay (1), ecu relay (1), and injector relay (1). as I said , these can go out of sight, just well labeled and organized. The new fuse blocks you may want to have more accessible.

 

as far as lighting circuits, on a new fuse block you can get away with one 30 amp circuit for headlihgts. If you want to split into two circuits(l&r) you probably need to add an additional relay to the lighting design to control the individual light circuits together. maybe not though.

 

for the panel, I suggest that you keep it simple, clean and uncluttered. what ever layout you like, but less is more.

When you rewire the z's, do you use a prefabbed harness or fab your own? Who do you use as sources for materials such as wire, relays, connectors etc etc.   It is really interesting to see an interest in rewiring the Datsun Zs.  I am using an EZwiring 20 mini fuse panel and harness.  I am up to 11+ relays and still designing.

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