New here, thinking of buying a 240z, is this one worth it?

[94b16coupe]

Hey guys,

 

I have been thinking about purchasing a 240/260/280z for a while now.

 

I have done my share of research on this car for the past several months.

 

I am looking to get one of these cars as a weekend driver, would like to mod it- Start with suspension, wheels, flares, etc....maybe end up with a swap(V8), or turbo.

 

I am really only looking to purchase one locally, so cant drive too far....needless to say a lot of the cars I have come across so far have not been perfect (rust, unknown miles, etc).

 

I came across this one, what do you guys think?

 

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3654467232.html

 

I would need to buy a new front bumper/valance (don't mind the no rear bumper look).

 

The guy is unsure of actual mileage, but odo reads 66k. He says there was some rust he has repaired (floorpans and corner panels).

 

Interior has been freshened up (new carpet, recovered seats, etc).

 

Original color was metallic green, has a small oil leak...he thinks just a oil drain plug.  "smokes a little" when he downshifts he says.

 

Is it worth the price? thoughts are appreciated!

 

 

Thanks,

 

Keith

 

 

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

I think the guy is unsure of a lot of things...

 

As this is not a 240z...Most likely a 260.

 

I think 7000 is a bit steep for a pretty paint job and a leaky smokey motor.

 

But that's just me.

Edited March 24, 2013 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[Perfect240z]

Well since its not a 240z from the front grill, rear tail lights and the blue air box I'd say if he drops the price a lot go for it. Leaky motor can and be an easy fix if its the drain plug or gasket to pan etc. You'll have to look at it in person to tell maybe have a mechanic take a peak if you think he'll let you do that. But with the smoke that's questionable...could be carbs, rings going, etc. Ask the guy for a compression test or even have that done at a shop near by so they can look at the leak too.

 

Tell him to also show you the car fax jk

[PLATA]

240Z, 260Z, 280Z ,  are not the same animal, same family but 3 PERSONALITIES . That neon 260 looks nice but not 7 G's nice FWIW 

[Gollum]

240Z, 260Z, 280Z ,  are not the same animal, same family but 3 PERSONALITIES . That neon 260 looks nice but not 7 G's nice FWIW 

 

But personally, having driven quite a few of all of them, they all have potential to be whatever you like. There's no reason you can't make a '78 280Z 95% of a '70 240Z. It's just time and cost prohibitive for most.

 

If it's going to be a track car, it doesn't matter what you buy. If it's a fun street car just to tinker with, get a '75 or older imo. The sweet spot imo is the '73-'74. The engine was bastardized pretty good in that year range though, but most people opt to swap to the larger 280Z/ZX motor, and assembling a nice healthy combo isn't too hard really.

[Tony D]

That is a Late 76 (Post 6/76) 280Z with filler added out back to plug the strut holes.

 

It is NOT a 260Z, and most assuredly is NOT a 73 240Z

 

 

If it was a 240, you might be able to justify the cost, but it's an incomplete 280Z...

 

The FIRST problem with someone buying a project car is spending too much on the base vehicle.

 

Flares? Then you're painting it, don't buy one with good paint. This car in similar condition sells all day long in the sub-$2,000 range without the "Crow's Shiny Paint" on it.

 

If you're planning. V8 swap and weekend driver...skip the shiny paint and misrepresented provenance.

 

There will be better candidates...

Edited March 24, 2013 by Tony D

[94b16coupe]

Thanks for the feedback fellas.

 

From the comments given, it may be worth a waiting for the right one to come along.

 

So from the research ive done, I cant really find someone that lists the differences between the 240/260/280, besides the bumpers and quality of interior etc.

 

Suggestion for the forum would be to sticky something like this question for newbies?

 

Thanks,

 

Keith Olschner

[Tony D]

Got to Classic Z Cars.com, there is detailed information there. It's not really what this site was built around (rarely do you care what stock was if you're modifying!)

[big-phil]

The only thing I like about this 280z, IS THE COLOR!!

 

Tony's right! 280z all day long

Edited March 24, 2013 by big-phil

[Tony D]

I got to agree, I was really liking the colour myself!

Remember "Kung-Fu the Next Generation" with the cop named Kermit, drove a green Late-model Corvair?

 

Or was the 'Vair Kermit? Hmmmmmm...

[Pharaohabq]

Now, I'm not sure about that 7K price either.  But you can tell they've done some work.  I would really be weary about the car though.  I agree with Tony-D's answer.  It is most likely a 280z being represented as a 240Z.  But a little work on panels and such is a scary thought.  Get a magnet and do the magnet test on the panels, especially the rear quarters. We've seen a lot of cars with .5" or more of bondo to cover bad spots, rust or whatnot. The antenna has been deleted along with the rear shave so you know some work has been done.   Ask if he has any pictures of the build.

 

 Looking at that hood badge pict makes me think the paint doesn't look very well done. No color sand, no clear. looks to me like a quick job.   240Z's had that diamond pattern vinyl on the strut tower, and over the trans tunnel.   The Taillights are 280Z type.  The wooden steering wheel and mirrors is about the only 240z thing I see.   Really getting to see picts of the build prior to pain would be about the only way I'd buy it.  You don't want to buy womething that will crack and bubble away in a vew months. 

 

As was said previously, If you are going for a build up driver yourself, then maybe start with something you won't be duplicating work on.  Get it up on a rack and look underneath. Most paint/polish quick jobs completely ignore the underbody. A good build will usually have at least an underbody recoat, especially if there's been underbody rust repair.  Also check for rust in the well behind the front tires. that's a big clue area.  others are Tirewell, rear deck,  inside rear tirewell lips. Battery tray.  Search Rust on here.  there's a lot of information. 

 

That being said, I'd probably pass unless he's got picts and the car is solid.

 

I understand your not wanting to travel, but there's a lot of near rust free Z's in the south western states. Many can be had cheap, shipping in the US is roughly $800 bucks insured. so Consider widening your search, but becareful and know what you're buying.

[Vneck]

Pretty sure it's not their car, the guy told me he had no idea where the engine was from (didn't know how to check it if was original, or didn't want to) a couple weeks ago.

[seattlejester]

I am curious where he got the year from, everything about it, sans the roundtop carbs (which should be earlier than '73), point towards what Tony says.

[94b16coupe]

Wow....Thanks again for the help fellas....good info!

[Tony D]

Guys, COME ON!

 

There is NO DOUBT this is a post 6.76 280Z:

 

1) EFI Relays in the Engine Bay

2) AFM mount in the Engine Bay

3) Distinctive 76 Seat Belt Assemblies.

4) Distinctive "Raised Floor for Full Sized Spare" 6.76-till space saver in 77/78 with FLAT (not ANGLED) read parcel area.

5) Fuel Warning Light in Dash

6) Volts Gauge (not Amps)

7) Turn Signals in Grille

8) 280Z Lower Valence

 

Do I need to continue? There is NO WAY IN HELL this car is ANYTHING OTHER than a 280Z! A LATE MODEL 280Z at that!

 

Now, start thinking on what is MISSING from a 280Z, or how they got carbs to work, and you start getting into some scary thoughts.

 

I mean, "what bumpers go on this car, and where are their mounts?" FRP Cosmetic things (or do you have to buy them and figure that out?)

How did they adapt the late-mode EFI tank to the smaller barbs on Low-Pressure Fuel Pumps (just tighten that clamp HARD?)

 

Like I said: This thing is painted bright and shiny to attract what I call "Car Buying Crows"---named for a Crow's Propensity to see a shimmering glinty object snatch it up and fly back to the nest with it...with absolutely NO use for what they got. You find them with rings, watches, tin foil... as long as it's pretty, shiny, and catches you eye "SQUAWK! GOTTA HAVE IT! SQUAWK!" and swoop in you get.

 

BEWARE!!!

 

Don't be a "Car Buying Crow!"

 

All that shimmers is not gold! Alsa paint makes a nice chrome turd!

 

And I KNOW Turdy Z-Cars. In fact, I own Turdy Z-Cars.... I think I own Turdy-Five right now...

[Leon]

Guys, COME ON!

 

There is NO DOUBT this is a post 6.76 280Z:

 

1) EFI Relays in the Engine Bay

2) AFM mount in the Engine Bay

3) Distinctive 76 Seat Belt Assemblies.

4) Distinctive "Raised Floor for Full Sized Spare" 6.76-till space saver in 77/78 with FLAT (not ANGLED) read parcel area.

5) Fuel Warning Light in Dash

6) Volts Gauge (not Amps)

7) Turn Signals in Grille

8) 280Z Lower Valence

 

Do I need to continue? There is NO WAY IN HELL this car is ANYTHING OTHER than a 280Z! A LATE MODEL 280Z at that!

 

Now, start thinking on what is MISSING from a 280Z, or how they got carbs to work, and you start getting into some scary thoughts.

 

I mean, "what bumpers go on this car, and where are their mounts?" FRP Cosmetic things (or do you have to buy them and figure that out?)

How did they adapt the late-mode EFI tank to the smaller barbs on Low-Pressure Fuel Pumps (just tighten that clamp HARD?)

 

Like I said: This thing is painted bright and shiny to attract what I call "Car Buying Crows"---named for a Crow's Propensity to see a shimmering glinty object snatch it up and fly back to the nest with it...with absolutely NO use for what they got. You find them with rings, watches, tin foil... as long as it's pretty, shiny, and catches you eye "SQUAWK! GOTTA HAVE IT! SQUAWK!" and swoop in you get.

 

BEWARE!!!

 

Don't be a "Car Buying Crow!"

 

All that shimmers is not gold! Alsa paint makes a nice chrome turd!

 

And I KNOW Turdy Z-Cars. In fact, I own Turdy Z-Cars.... I think I own Turdy-Five right now...

 

 

Also note the late-280Z door latches...