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Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning


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Hey, Nice buildup so far.  I'm really digging the T3 stuff.  How ar eyou liking it now that you've had it for a while?  What brackets and such did you need for the Z32 brakes?  I know the T3 rear looks like they just bolt on. but how about the front? How did you get them to fit?

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For the fronts I used a vendor here on hybridz that makes the bracket......

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105586-z32-caliper-conversion-kit-front-only/

 

Straight bolt on. Just tell him what type of rotor you want as in stock, slotted drilled or slotted and drilled. If you dont have these calipers I think you can get them from a parts store as a re manufactured part. Will not have the "NISSAN" on the outside of the caliper but same insides, about $90 with core charge. Use steel braided lines and good to go.

 

The rear I used the T3 as you know and straight bolt on. One thing I tried was going with just the backing plates and the dif mount. Well you have to get the mustache bar because the stock does not fit. And then the drop downs will not bolt to the dif support and the dog bone. Then the rear suspension is so far out of alignment that you have to get there rear lower control arms because you need the adjustment. So, if you are getting this buy the whole thing and you done.!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

If you havent been reading my struggles in the EMS blog, I will update my build blog for what has happened.

 

I started the z31 ecu install. Per the other posts on how to do this I decided to forgo the FPRelay wiring, MAF burn off wiring and I do not have the AAIC, cold start, and other features the 300zx computer operates. I wired the fuel pump to ignition on. Found out that I originally had the ignition on for the FPRelay wired to a resisted voltage of 5.5. That could have been my issue with not wanting to run over 4000rpm, pump did not have enough voltage to pump the correct amount of fuel.

 

I did wire the pin 3,34 to coil wiring. Very straightforward.

 

So tried to start, no spark. Had fuel. Did some diagnosing and found via continuity testing that the signal wire for the ignitor was grounding out. I had messed with the coil bracket during this install and did not notice the wire went under the clamp. So, fixed that and fired right up. Idled OK. But would not rev over 2000 rpm. Ended up being the wiring I did for the MAF.

 

Against what most said can not be done I decided to use a Z32 MAF from a 1993 300zx(was my brothers knew it worked) Most upgrades you see like JimWolfe say to use a Cobra MAF. The z32 wiring looks the same as the cobra! I wired it that way which is what I found per a Nistune web site you can do and jim wolf. This did not work.

 

I checked the voltage while the car was running and with ignition on motor not running. Checked the FSM for both the z31 and s130 ecu's. So I had to put the yellow wire with red stripe to the thin white wire to the z32 maf which is prong B. Then the 2 black wires C,D prongs(one has white striping on it) to the ground wire in the 83 harness. The fat white wire on the z32 maf E prong i attached to 12v ignition on. Got the correct signals going to the right place and then the maf was only sending .8 volts with ignition on and 1.2 at idle. The z31 300zx ecu is looking for 1.6 with ignition on and 2.0 for idle to 6-7 on revving.

 

So the z32s operate at 0-5 volts and the z31s operate at 2-7.

 

The Nistune site said to remove these 3 resistors.

 

 

 

I did that and it started up idled and revved clean. So I cleaned everthing up. Attached wires permantly, redid my ground wires and took it for a spin. Ran great driving around the block. Then for another quick spin and came back to pick up my dad. We took off and got a mile away, the car died. Got it to restart but ran on 2 or 3 cylinders at best. Had mom come and tow us home. Back to diagnosis.

 

Figured out that I had lost injectors 1,2,3. First by checking the plugs. Most looked fouled. So cleaned and reinstalled. Car would start but run rough. Pulled #1 injector wire and no difference in idle. Same with 2 and 3. Pulled 4 or 5 or 6 and motor died right away. Checked for power, pulled plug again and no gas or combustion on 1,2,3. Did ohm test on 1,2,3 wire connectors back to ecu and are at 001, test of 4,5,6 wire connectors and at 008. Seem to have lost the injector driver for 1,2,3. Upon more investigation it seems that in the haste of connecting the wires on the harness we(my dad) forgot to connect one of the thick black wires from the harness to anything. It was wrapped around and down under the intake. Seems it had a contact for a while to something but with further driving it lost connection and burned up the ecu driver.

 

So NismoVictor is sending overnight another turbo ecu with the socket soldered in. All I will have to do is install the rom chip in the new ecu and remove the 3 resistors. He thinks he can fix the ecu's bad drivers. I will be sending it to him.

 

Well the 15 minutes I drove the car was the best it has ever run. Stay tuned for more updates coming. Once i have this straightened out, the bumpers are coming off and will start some body work on the car.

Edited by tooquick260
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Well self inflicted demise is the worst. Don't be leary of what I have experienced. Learn by what I have done wrong. 

 

Good news now is that I will have 2 88 Z31 ecu's. Tuner found an 88 turbo ecu and will be in the mail tomorrow. May be able to make it to the UTI car show in Orlando Saturday!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the 2nd ecu back and after double checking all connections and wiring plugged it in. First click of the ignition it fired up ran, then died. Had the strong smell of fuel thinking it was just rich. Tried to start again and no fire with a large amount of fuel smell. Re-checked the computer for injector pulse and the injectors on 1,2,3 stay on and flooded the motor. 

 

So I have sent both ecu's to the tuner back in California to try to fix the issues. 

 

I swung thru the local pick n pay and found an 86 300zx turbo, still had the ecu. It is not tuned for the 500cc injectors. It is also not set up for the z32 maf. But the car will run with the maf unplugged just real rich!

 

I have been talking to Martin over in Tampa that works for Z Fever. He tuned my 240sx that had Nistune. He is going to set up the 86 ecu for my setup. He is coming over to Orlando in the next 2 weeks to tune some other cars. 

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I'd like to offer a suggestion on the fuel pump control.  Get a Z31 wiring diagram and study how the fuel pump is wired.  I used my old 280Z fuel pump relay, and rewired it so the Z31 ECU controls it.  That way it primes while cranking and shuts off if the engine dies.  It's safer that way.  It's quite simple, and you can use the same wiring if you replace the Z31 ECU with a MegaSquirt.

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Thanks.... i have the pin location 108 wired to go to the relay. I also have the blue/red wire going to the ignition on black white wire from where the fuel control module got power. 

 

I did not finish that part because of chasing the ecu issues. I plan on finishin that as soon as the ecu is working. In my disgust I pulled all the wires off the relay. I will have to re wire that to get it to work. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi How did you settle on buying the techno LCAs? I am looking to buy also but am not sure which ones are the best / value for money and performance. The ArizonaZ ones look tremendous but as long as they do the job and provide the scope of adjustment needed then I am happy to get any type. What's your view? Thanks

Edited by andypurce
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Looking back on buying them I would have bought the Arizona ones. They have  a little more adjustment..

 

The TTT setup works and was able to get the alignment set up. I was going to use the Z32 rear dif and brakes. So, I just went ahead and bought the complete rear setup for a proven system. 

 

Good luck

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Birthday present from my brother. Could not decide on a shift knob for my 6 speed. Always wanted one for my stolen 240sx so....."Silvia" oem shift knob.

 

20131015_124416_zpsosukdnwz.jpg

 

Plain and subtle i like it. fits your hand like a glove. Strange its the simple things in life...

Edited by tooquick260
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Well making plans for starting body work. I will be doing this with it still being a driver. I know not the best plan for a perfect finish. Not looking for show car finish but want to alleviate the rust issues. Plan on doing a color change as well. Want to do all work myself with dads help.

 

So, scored 2 front fenders yesterday. I will get pictures uploaded later. Both fenders are way better than mine. I have 8" round holes in the lower fender of my car, typical rust spot for our cars. One of the new fenders has a rust spot about 3 inches in size that will be easy to patch. The person threw in a polyurethane front nose. It has been painted and the paint is pealing off.  I was going to attempt to remove the paint, if I can't get it to look good I am going to paint it with bedliner paint. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok,,, Lets get caught up on the progress of the car. 

 

 

Another birthday present that I got was from mom and dad. Nice center console cup/storage holder. This thing is awesome. Also took the furry mammoth seat covers off. Bought these at Pep Boys for $19 picked up some 2" and 5" foam from the hobby store. The factory seat covers were wasted. So, I cut up the foam and contoured the seats as best as possible. Gave me some side support in cornering. I know no professional but hey for Less than $50 it works for me.

 

20131023_104004_zpskdjjrdys.jpg

 

Onto the computer issues I have had. All of it was self inflicted. Hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes. First When I did the 83 ecu//turbo install it all worked out great once I found the VACUUM leak. Then had a driveability problem that I did not fix until today.

 

 

Seems that I had the spark plug gap to wide. Had it at .42 lowered to .27 and wala no more ignition failure when in upper rpms.  I may even drop it more, was told you can go as low as .15 on turbo.

 

 

During the whole ignition problem I knew that I wanted more power and decided to go with the z31 ecu install. I picked up a really nice 88 turbo ecu from a member on here at a great price. I ordered 500cc injectors and wanted to switch to a Z32 maf. So needed a tune for the z31 ecu to run the larger injectors and different maf. After research decided to go with a tuner that advertises on ebay and has a shop in California. Sent him the first ecu and for $220 he installed the rom chip that is tuneable, tuned for larger injectors and better mapping, removed the resistors to drop the voltage reading 2-7ohms to 0-5 for the maf. Real simple. (Yes could have done megasquirt for about $400, I know.......which is what I have in this journey with shipping.)

 

So installed the Maf, injectors with new connectors and wired the ecu in per all the information on the web. You can read about that in the posts above with issues can you say burnt. He sent me another ecu and it was toast on arrival.

 

Sent both ecu's back and neither were fixable. I found another 88 turbo ecu, sent it to Jason at Nismovictor, ecu tuning in california. Now Jason has been doing all these other ecu's pretty much free of charge to fix my problem. He rom chipped the third ecu, ( I had an 86 turbo ECU that he is tuning as well), got this one back and plugged it in. Wala starts right up sounds good. Take it for a ride and again the best it has run. Drove it 2 more times, then decided to take dad to lunch. We make it to a local performance shop. Stop and talk to the owner for about 30 minutes. Get back in the car and it will not start. Determine it has no spark. No power to the coil or ignitor via test light.

 

Trailered it home, diagnose that the coil/ignitor/ ecu signal was locked either grounded or on. Drained the battery etc. Only way we figured it out was by unplugging the ecu with the ign on and heard a loud click. Replugged the ecu in and now had power. Started car and ran terrible. Like the maf was not working. So, tested the maf harness had no power to the maf. Traced the wire back and it had pulled out of the butt connector at the terminal post where it gets power. Fixed that and wala it started. 

 

 

 

 

Onto body work soon. Removed the bumpers. Picked up some fenders and front spoiler.

20131023_111948_zpsg7lj14he.jpg20131023_112035_zpskfqnuy47.jpg

 

I purchased some 240sx front turn signals to go in there. Just will have to figure some sort of front grill.... Maybe bigger intercooler.

Edited by tooquick260
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So, after driving the car for 3 days,,, Love the boost and much better ignition with spark gaps down to .27. I have not upped the boost on it though. When I am driving the car it seems run poorer the longer I drive it. The air/fuel reading on cruising goes up to 17+ then 18 and then the gauge goes dead liine like out of scale. If I roll into the gas I can get it come back into a reading. Full throttle will drop it down to 11 to 13 a/f reading.

 

Another major issue is that when I turn the car off and try to restart it acts like it has a dead battery. Large drain on electrical system. But, if I disconnect the computer and the ignitor wires. Then replug them in it will start back up. Something is locking on either ignition system or the computer. I am going to post in the ems secion to see if anyone can chime in on this issue.

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