Stroker Dyno Results

[BluDestiny]

Max hp was 165 at right around 5700rpm, and Max tourqe was 180 at about 4000rpm

 

I've seen a stroker pull 240 to the rear wheels with a mirror setup to what you have but with megasquirt. You have the components, but not the management. 

Edited April 24, 2013 by BluDestiny

[madkaw]

Might consider Megasquirt for a programmable ECU . You would get lot's of support here and most seem happy with support from DIY Tune.  

[glitched]

I contacted Nistune, i would have to rewire the the car with a new loom for a newer ecu.

I'd really want something as plug and play as possible to minimize things that can go wrong.

If i went with a megasquirt would i have to do the same?

[BluDestiny]

This is a 30+ year old car that had some of the first EFI computers. There is no such thing as plug in play. If you want a shop to do this, expect to pay around $1500-$2000

 

You would need to wire everything and get new sensors for megasquirt, but honeslty there aren't many things to wire.

Edited April 24, 2013 by BluDestiny

[Xnke]

Looks like he made 180ft-lbs and 164hp, peak tq at about 4200, peak power at about 5600.

 

Dyno sheet really looks like a stock cam, but there are so many unknowns it really could be the 0.490" lift cam in there. Generally speaking, a 290* duration cam will make power from 3000rpm and up...so if the afr's are far off, you could be drowning the motor right as it starts making power.

[glitched]

So it sounds like doing it right will be a major project, so that wont be happening this summer because i want a working car for the season. I've also heard ITB could be an option, and again i'm showing my ignorance, but i dont think that goes with megasquirt?

 

If there are any weekend project ideas i could do, i'd accept those suggestions, otherwise i'm just going to drive it as is this summer.

 

Also, i think i'm gonna mount my gopro under the hood and watch the fuel pressure gauge while going for a short drive.. 

[glitched]

I was poking around rebello's website and they have a PLX device listed.

 

This sounds like it could be a weekend project, would get me some useable information, and would be a good step down the road for EMS right?

 

http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6

 

 

Edit: nevermind, would have to tap the coated header for the sensor hole. 

Edited April 24, 2013 by glitched

[ram75280z]

Honestly you really don't need the rising rate fuel pressure regulator, since you have turbo injectors. Unless you fix the main problem with your setup.

 

I'm going to assume the 45 degrees is total=a couple more degrees than stock at WOT for a total mechanical of 30. You should be shooting for, with proper tuning, around 35 total mechanical advance.

 

Aside from that, the main problem is you have an intake manifold that is choking off your engine massively! At least you don't have it listed as modified. The stock intake chokes off a completely stock l28. For your engine you need a custom intake manifold & engine management. Although, you could probably get away with just the new intake manifold if you swapped to a larger AFM, that would better be able to communicate the extra flow to the stock ecu, especially with the bigger injectors, & flow properly for the larger TB. Put an intake on there, with at least 36mm runners, & you will receive a large increase in power from 4000-7000rpm.

Edited April 25, 2013 by ram75280z

[srgunz]

 

From what I have read a DynoJet would yield results of 13-15% higher over the Mustang dyno.

Before you compare numbers with someone, first find out which Dyno they ran their car on.

[glitched]

From what I have read a DynoJet would yield results of 13-15% higher over the Mustang dyno.

Before you compare numbers with someone, first find out which Dyno they ran their car on.

 

Yeah, that's one of the things I was implying to consider from my first reply to everyone...

 

 

...

 

" No, I'm not an expert in dyno science where numbers can be affected by type or setup (or shops that "race" their dynos with other local shops)."

...

[BluDestiny]

Get a wideband, that is the first step to tuning and would be used if you upgraded the ECU anyway. It will also tell you if you are dumping massive amounts of fuel into your cylinders which could be harming your engine and why you aren't making power.

[randy 77zt]

You would get more power from some well tuned su carbs.The oem intake manifold is restrictive-study the bend that the air has to take for #1 cylinder .A year or 2 back another member on here welded some injector bungs into a l24 dual carb manifold and used 2 l28et throttle bodies on it and got good results.There are no easy bolt on parts for z's=its fab it your self.To get max power from the 3.1 you would need an itb intake /manifold combo + some kind of modern(not 20 year old junk) efi system.No buying ready made parts from a magazine.Any modern efi system will require you to build a custom wire harness for it.A stout 3.1 should see 250+rwhp.

[glitched]

Yeah that's the long term planned but first steps right? I ordered a wideband.

[T-Bone028]

Actually just installed the AEM UEGO wideband this afternoon. Very simple to install. I would say the hardest part was figuring out how I wanted to secure the cable from the O2 sensor before it went into the cabin.

 

Was immediately able to see I go lean at mid-throttle. Great informational tool and showed up 2 days after I ordered it from Amazon...I didn't even choose expedited shipping!

[BLOZ UP]

Didnt mean to come off that way. and have not taken any offence. just playing ball. I've been on various car forums since 2001. 

I'm also now in contact with Datsun Parts LLC, he remembers building the motor back in 2008.

 

 

 

Got any links or pointers to point me in the direction for engine managment?  I'm not sure if this would be something i could do myself.  But i have read up on nistune a couple years ago, whats this about switching to a z31 ecu?

 

I have megasquirted 3.0L, a decent sized turbo, 18psi of boost and maxing out my 550cc injectors I get 240RWHP. It can't get much worse than that. At 8psi I made 170rwhp. So, you're doing better than me, I'd say. Long story short one cylinder doesn't have a whole lot of compression and it wasn't tuned.

 

I think Megasquirt would be the way to go. Yeah, it's a pain to setup if you've never done it before, but once you wire in everything you're done (except for tuning). It's pretty straight forward for these engines. Lots of people have done it here and can help you through the way.

 

One thing you could do, right now, is remove the rising rate FPR. Those are just band-aids that will get you running, but going very rich under load.

[Xnke]

Cool part is you DON'T have to take the car down!

 

You can drive your car, and megasquirt the car, at the same time. No big deal.

 

After the wiring harness is done, the two sensors that need to be changed are a cakewalk.

[bradyzq]

Cam timing? The torque peak RPM seems a bit low for your cam.

 

And, regarding the wideband O2 sensor, you can install it after the header collector so you don't have to damage your ceramic coating. Just make sure the flanges or slip fit connections aren't leaking.

 

Did you ever rev past 6000RPM on the dyno?

Edited April 27, 2013 by bradyzq

[z-ya]

do you have the AFR plot? That will shed light on where you are not getting most out of your build. i would think that you could get at least another 20HP with a good tune. My 2.8L with no head work and a mild cam made the same power when tuned correctly. So a 3.1 with a hotter cam should make a lot more.

[jeffp]

Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.

[NorwegianZED]

Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.

Could you explain that cam timing bit? That is very interesting to me