94b16coupe Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Hey guys, You guys have given me good input here before, so I figured I would see what you guys thought about this car I am currently interested in. http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3758357768.html The car seems pretty sold, seller seems very nice. The battery tray area will need to be cut out, he sent me pictures and there is rust every where around that area, rusting through to the fenderwells in some places. The door also looks like it has pretty bad rust on it. So now for the question, how much do you think this car is worth? About how much would a body shop charge to repair the rust in the battery tray area and door? Thanks, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Not worth that much, I'd say $4-5k if nothing on the inside looks like crap and it runs good with no ghetto repairs. A body shop can charge anywhere from a few hundred to a thousand for a job like that. Depends how much its actually spread and if it messed up any of the body lines and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9rider Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 Buy a cheaper one and mod as you like. I got mine 1 month ago paid $1600 280z 1976. Rusted frame rail and some rust spots. Planning to spend another 4k and my car will look pretty good. You get the ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 For a few penny's more go the California route , rust = $$$$$, what u save on a Cali car + transport is worth $ on the long run. My dos centavos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 A 280Z will never be a 240z. That car has "some" value on the east coast. Again its what you're willing to pay. I paid $5500 for my early 260z 6 years ago. It was well sorted and I really did nothing but paint it for the first few years I had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Definitely expensive, but from what I've heard from so many east-coasters, they CAN be worth it if they're in good shape. If the rust is truly minor, then it might actually be cheaper than shipping a CA car out. And just because a car is from CA doesn't mean it's rust free, you'd have to have someone who knows what they're looking for look at it for you. If that sounds like too much time and headache, I'd say see if you can talk him down and be happy with whatever you get. The prices have been skyrocketing lately and finding a clean S30 even in the bay area for a reasonable price seems to be getting hard to do. Really gotta hunt with lots of patience, not in any sort of hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 ^^^ rust/rot is an ailment on all Z's, Cali Z's are less prone to this infection, I am on my 7th Cali car and all have been healthy FWIW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) I just spent $5,000 on a 9/71 240Z, most I've ever spent on a Z-Car. Came with a pickup bed full of parts incl two blocks (original numbers-matching L24 is one, Comp-Prepped N42 is the other, spare for the one currently in the car), three heads, complete Isky cam setup new in box... Basically anything taken off the car for replacement by a modified or high-performance part was kept and put in storage and came with the car. I haven't seen such a nice set of original SU's in years! Rust Free Simi Valley car from the son of the original owner, including all documentation. Still think that SoCal trip is "hassle" and not worth it? Renting a tow dolly and Enterprise van would have cost me an additional $2,200 to the East Coast... I lay money the buy is a better deal renting the van, trailer, and. Paying the $800 in gas, plus a couple of hotel nights than just about ANY 280Z on the East Coast for comparable money. Craigslist listed vehicle. EVERYBODY that called them tried to talk them down on price. I paid asking, no questions asked. That's when they said "I hope you have a big truck, there are a lot of spare parts that come with it as well..." In the end, they were willing to come down and offered $1,000 of the price back to me since I had registration in CA to cover ($608), plus I didn't hassle them on the asking price whatsoever. I didn't ask for the money, they just blurted out "I forgot to tell you about all those back fees, here, you should have this back for the fees!" It was awkward, but I really appreciated the offer, it helped immeasurably with all that went on that day (broke spring shackle on Rusty Shackle Ford, bought in December BACK EAST!) Funny how people give rebates when you treat them like humans with dignity and integrity. They truly were sad to see their 240 go after all these years. So really, it wasn't $5,000... I got a rebate! Still the most I ever paid for a Z... So yeah, the prices ARE rising... All that being said...the car in the OPis a 240! And COULD be as rust-free as a comparative CA car if it was inland and didn't make it to the beach that much. Humidity near the coast can be insidious, and these cars rot inside out...with perforations in mid-panel... If the car is documented to be "inland Mobile" and didn't spend a lot of time getting flooded in the past few hurricanes (I'm not joking, GET UP UNDER THE DASH AND LOOK WITH A FLASHLIGHT!!!) then the price is not "expensive" and likely the 95% "solid" rust condition can be comparable to a CA car in similar environs of the Cantral Coast, or San Diego... Could be good, could be bad. But compared to an inland CA car, with its life in the desert...almost ANYTHING is "rusty" by comparison. I would likely take that car if inspection panned out, play up the rust and the "undesirable 1973 Model" aspects and try to get it closer to $4,500-5,000. The value and selling prices for 240's is indeed up, but the economy is still down...and pricing should reflect that! Edited May 12, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 ^^^ car transport LA to NY is less than a G note , transporters are on bids for jobs FWIW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Buy a cheaper one and mod as you like. I got mine 1 month ago paid $1600 280z 1976. Rusted frame rail and some rust spots. Planning to spend another 4k and my car will look pretty good. You get the ideas. You probably overpaid by about 100% in LA with frame rust, and a car needing a smog! I could have sold you a 76 with NO RUST for $2,500... Did you want it with, or without factory air (GT one of both!) and a freshly rebuilt five speed... One of three bough out of a shop in Riverside that closed some years ago, mechanics lien cars...Wizard of Z's. picked up three 280Z's for $600, one of which went on to be "Mr Hankey" of LeMons Fame, inspiring at east three rule revisions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hell, for that matter...if the OP wants a 76 280 with factory air...bring a trailer and $2,500! Plenty of overhead to repair/modify/register/transport under the $6,900 asking price. Heck, I might even go back to the US to broker it! I gotta move some of this crap out of my yard! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94b16coupe Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Thanks for the feedback guys. So I am wondering how much money the battery tray area will set me back if I get a body shop to repair it. Has anyone on the board had this type of work done? If so a ball park figure would be nice. Thanks, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Sounds like I need to talk to Tony when I'm ready to buy my next Z, lol. My chassis has been destroyed by the tin worm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I gotta move some of this crap out of my yard! LOL Sweet Jesus son of Mary and Almighty, has hell frozen over?!?!?!?! Somebody call Tony an ambulance, I think he's having a seizure! Thanks for the feedback guys. So I am wondering how much money the battery tray area will set me back if I get a body shop to repair it. Has anyone on the board had this type of work done? If so a ball park figure would be nice. Thanks, Keith If you need to bring it to a shop to have it repaired, I honestly wonder if owning any vintage car is really for you. You either need to have deep pockets, or willing to do the work yourself. The battery tray isn't too complicated of a repair, especially when you consider things like replacing the tail light area, lower rocker areas, or replacing entire floor pans... I'm not trying to be mean, just hoping to shock you into reality. Old cars rust, and these Z cars weren't the greatest at preventing it. That means you better to prepared to deal with the consequences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94b16coupe Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Sweet Jesus son of Mary and Almighty, has hell frozen over?!?!?!?! Somebody call Tony an ambulance, I think he's having a seizure! If you need to bring it to a shop to have it repaired, I honestly wonder if owning any vintage car is really for you. You either need to have deep pockets, or willing to do the work yourself. The battery tray isn't too complicated of a repair, especially when you consider things like replacing the tail light area, lower rocker areas, or replacing entire floor pans... I'm not trying to be mean, just hoping to shock you into reality. Old cars rust, and these Z cars weren't the greatest at preventing it. That means you better to prepared to deal with the consequences. Good point, but I consider myself a mechanical guy, with no body experience, or welding experience. I suppose I could learn, but id rather not learn on a car that I shell out 6k for. The car will be garaged, and never driven in the rain, so hopefully new rust wont (or will be slow to) occur. Thanks again, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pet280 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 i want the wood steering wheel and un cracked dash.... lol Anyway if there is already wholes from rust in obvious spots there is no telling what will be hiding from ya. I live in the desert were you can still find cars from the 50's that have no major rust issues though. Well that does depend on if it was left on the mesa, or indoors. Seriously people think it is humid here if it is more than 15%. If you do deiced to go for it though, I would suggest you find someone who has done body work in your area to come and inspect it before buying. If nothing else spending a hundred on that can give you solid negotiating power. It may also save you from a very costly body project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Just had a lady inherit a 73 from her father...orange 73 with 140,000 miles on it. Original radio... She's fishing for $13K... Nice car, original with smog DGV's on it... Colton Car, inland valley low humidity, no rust. PM and I can forward the e-mail that came into our clubs e-mail server. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I was there ... and i did it before .. il never buy anything to restore that is not rom Socal!! why spend money on rust repairs when you can do it on goodies! Hell i even need to ship em out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjuju Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 OP, if you buy this car, spend $500 on a welder, a book, and some scrap. Learn how to weld, and do it yourself. You'll be happier in the long run, because in five years when you discover more rust, you'll know what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I just spent $5,000 on a 9/71 240Z, most I've ever spent on a Z-Car. Came with a pickup bed full of parts incl two blocks (original numbers-matching L24 is one, Comp-Prepped N42 is the other, spare for the one currently in the car), three heads, complete Isky cam setup new in box... Basically anything taken off the car for replacement by a modified or high-performance part was kept and put in storage and came with the car. I haven't seen such a nice set of original SU's in years! Rust Free Simi Valley car from the son of the original owner, including all documentation. Still think that SoCal trip is "hassle" and not worth it? Renting a tow dolly and Enterprise van would have cost me an additional $2,200 to the East Coast... I lay money the buy is a better deal renting the van, trailer, and. Paying the $800 in gas, plus a couple of hotel nights than just about ANY 280Z on the East Coast for comparable money. Craigslist listed vehicle. EVERYBODY that called them tried to talk them down on price. I paid asking, no questions asked. That's when they said "I hope you have a big truck, there are a lot of spare parts that come with it as well..." In the end, they were willing to come down and offered $1,000 of the price back to me since I had registration in CA to cover ($608), plus I didn't hassle them on the asking price whatsoever. I didn't ask for the money, they just blurted out "I forgot to tell you about all those back fees, here, you should have this back for the fees!" It was awkward, but I really appreciated the offer, it helped immeasurably with all that went on that day (broke spring shackle on Rusty Shackle Ford, bought in December BACK EAST!) Funny how people give rebates when you treat them like humans with dignity and integrity. They truly were sad to see their 240 go after all these years. So really, it wasn't $5,000... I got a rebate! Still the most I ever paid for a Z... So yeah, the prices ARE rising... All that being said...the car in the OPis a 240! And COULD be as rust-free as a comparative CA car if it was inland and didn't make it to the beach that much. Humidity near the coast can be insidious, and these cars rot inside out...with perforations in mid-panel... If the car is documented to be "inland Mobile" and didn't spend a lot of time getting flooded in the past few hurricanes (I'm not joking, GET UP UNDER THE DASH AND LOOK WITH A FLASHLIGHT!!!) then the price is not "expensive" and likely the 95% "solid" rust condition can be comparable to a CA car in similar environs of the Cantral Coast, or San Diego... Could be good, could be bad. But compared to an inland CA car, with its life in the desert...almost ANYTHING is "rusty" by comparison. I would likely take that car if inspection panned out, play up the rust and the "undesirable 1973 Model" aspects and try to get it closer to $4,500-5,000. The value and selling prices for 240's is indeed up, but the economy is still down...and pricing should reflect that! I did the same thing earlier this year. I'm only on my 4th Z-car but it was the most expensive one yet - $5k for an early 260Z roller that was almost finished but not quite. Came with literally a ton of great parts. Ok, I didn't weigh them all but I wouldn't be surprised. After adding it up, it was a fantastic deal. No way I could've gotten that car to where it is with anything near $5k. Hell, for that matter...if the OP wants a 76 280 with factory air...bring a trailer and $2,500! Plenty of overhead to repair/modify/register/transport under the $6,900 asking price. Heck, I might even go back to the US to broker it! I gotta move some of this crap out of my yard! LOL My god, I was wondering when I'd hear this. I need to make a trip to Tony's yard, ASAP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.