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Yet another rear drum to disk conversion option!


Nigel

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Also, would you mind clarifying the parts us buyers would need to supply? I see the calipers are 2004 Lincoln LS (rears I assume), but rear Lincoln LS rotors appear to be 288mm. What 300mm rotors has this been designed to work with?

Thanks again

 

You'll want a 2008 4.6L Mustang GT rear rotor:

12061087.jpg

 

2008 4.6L Mustang GT rear brake pads. Choose friction level based on front brakes. I can make recomendations:

10x10820.jpg

 

 

2004 Lincoln LS rear calipers if you need the lowest profile:

22-04814L.jpg

 

or 2004 Jaguar Vanden Plas rear calipers if you have the room and want a lighter, aluminum body caliper:

22-17919L.jpg

 

2004 Lincoln LS rear brake hardware kit:

697772.jpg

 

For those interested in the two piece rotor option, you'd want Wilwood rotor part #160-0277:

Ultralite-32-Vane-Rotor-810-lg.jpg

Edited by Nigel
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I went ahead and priced out the required parts to complete this kit assuming all parts are purchased from Rock Auto. I did not always choose the cheapest options so a few bucks could be shaved from the total.

 

Rotors - $18 apiece

Lincoln calipers -$125 apiece with $65 core charge each

Pads - $10 - $60 depending on material and brand

Hardware kit - $8

 

Altogether you will be looking at about another $325 plus shipping if you can't find cheap cores locally. Or $130 less if you can.

 

Overall it looks like a great setup with reasonably cheap, available parts!

 

Count me in for a set! With centering rings please.

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I went ahead and priced out the required parts to complete this kit assuming all parts are purchased from Rock Auto. I did not always choose the cheapest options so a few bucks could be shaved from the total.

 

Rotors - $18 apiece

Lincoln calipers -$125 apiece with $65 core charge each

Pads - $10 - $60 depending on material and brand

Hardware kit - $8

 

Altogether you will be looking at about another $325 plus shipping if you can't find cheap cores locally. Or $130 less if you can.

 

Overall it looks like a great setup with reasonably cheap, available parts!

 

Count me in for a set! With centering rings please.

 

Not that I want to discourage you, but ~$325 is what you would spend if you can find cores for free to send in. Otherwise, it'll be $130 more without cores ($190/caliper) from Rock Auto. I'm pretty sure that I've seen better pricing on the calipers, including the core charge, through  other sources though. So you might want to investigate that further.

 

My target price range was $800 to $900 total with high quality (expensive) rotors and pads. Even so, I don't think you can find a kit of this caliber for less. If you're satisfied with less expensive parts, you can save yourself some extra money. I leave that decision up to you :icon10:

 

Nigel

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I'm pretty sure the $125 apiece included the core charge. Granted these are remanufactured calipers, but rock auto has the A1 Cardone for $61.79 + $65 core for each.

 

For my car, I'm fine with the cheaper parts. The car is not raced and only driven in the streets occasionally. I'm really only after rear disk brakes for the looks and ease of maintenance.

 

I would probably be fine with a 240sx set up but don't see much point in deliberately screwing up brake bias when you're set up will cost about the same. Seems like win-win to me.

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I'm pretty sure the $125 apiece included the core charge. Granted these are remanufactured calipers, but rock auto has the A1 Cardone for $61.79 + $65 core for each.

 

For my car, I'm fine with the cheaper parts. The car is not raced and only driven in the streets occasionally. I'm really only after rear disk brakes for the looks and ease of maintenance.

 

I would probably be fine with a 240sx set up but don't see much point in deliberately screwing up brake bias when you're set up will cost about the same. Seems like win-win to me.

 

I misinterpreted what you wrote as meaning that it was $125/caliper + $65 core. $125 INCLUDING core is a great price!

 

With my kit, you have greater flexibility with what you run up front. You can upgrade the fronts down the road if you desire, and at the most, only change the rear brake pads and adjust the proportioning valve to suit.

 

Nigel

Edited by Nigel
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No worries Nigel. I'm thrilled that parts are so available and cheap for your kit. I found it a little hard to believe myself. Definitely a pleasant surprise.

 

I will be waiting to see how the XXR wheels fit as I am currently rocking a set XXR 002s on my car. The Jag calipers were only marginally more expensive than the iron LS calipers.

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Shane, an Ontario Z Car club member, dropped by my place on Saturday to test fit his 16"x8.25" XXR 530 wheel. It easily cleared the aluminum bodied Jag caliper with the Mustang 11.8" rotor. It even cleared the wheel weights he has taped to the inside of the rim. We also tried it with the Jag caliper and the 12.2" two piece rotor. Much to my surprise, the wheel cleared that too. But it was a really tight fit. It looked like there was only about 1 to 2 mm of clearance to the wheel ID. Also, I don't have the right style lug nuts for those wheels, so the wheel was just sitting loose on the studs. Hard to say if the wheel would still fit when it was bolted down.

 

Based on what I've seen, I suspect that some 15" rims would likely fit with the lower profile Lincoln LS caliper. But the bottom line is that you should measure your wheel first to see what will fit, since every wheel is formed differently. I published a list of profile dimensions for the various caliper and rotor options here (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/?do=findComment&comment=1062201) that you can check against.

 

Nigel

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nigel, By any chance, do you or your friends have a 16" watanabe wheel that you can test fit?

 

Shane was the only person who responded to my request for a 16†rim to test fit.

 

Regardless, I provided the caliper clearance measurements so people could check their own wheels and not have to guess if a wheel was going to fit. Just measure the ID of your wheel at the hub depth and the offset from the hub face to the spokes and compare that to the numbers I provided. It’s not hard to do. I can provide more detailed instructions if you’re not certain how to measure properly?

 

I was considering trying to come up with a mock-up of some sort that people could print out and glue to some card stock. Perhaps I’ll have some time over the holidays.

 

Nigel

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  • 4 weeks later...

Nigel sign me up for a kit with a centering ring.

 

Does it matter which front brake caliper you are using, ie Stock, Toyota S12, Toyota S12/W with Vented Rotors?  I know that the proportioning valve takes care of the bias but I was curious if you had a recommended setup.

 

Thanks

Levi

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Nigel - Can you recommend me some brake pads please, I'm finding it rather hard to find ones in the UK, I've got some cheap pads in there at the moment, I'll be driving it again in less than a week and I want to change to better pads first. All the normal performance brands I'd normally use don't seem to do pads for these callipers (you can't get Mustangs in the UK).

 

 

The only ones I have seen are EBC Yellowstuff pads which are better than what I have but I was hoping for something better, I need a high performance pad that can also be used on the road and from cold. Perhaps America has something to offer.

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