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Race oil pressure


duragg

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I am starting to gather from searching that a good Baffled pan is probably plenty for an average dedicated track car?

Versus the cost, complexity and maintenance of a dry-sump system?

 

Daves Arizona Z-car pan as good as any? And miles better than a stock pan??

 

My searches were hindered by Hybridz current distaste for 3 letter search terms which makes oil & pan & dry useless terms.

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Seems to me like an Accusump is the best cheap solution. Instead of trapping maybe a cup or two of oil around the pickup tube, and Accusump can hold 3 qts of oil and have it feed in automatically any time the pressure drops. Adding a pan with an Accusump gives less likelihood that the Accusump will run dry and the oil will still slosh away from the pickup, which is possible. Dry sump is the best, but a lot more expensive.

 

I had the AZC pan on my L6 and thought it was a very good pan. Mine had a leaky pipe plug drain on it, but I understand the newer ones use a flanged drain plug with a better seal to solve that minor problem.

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Great feedback Jon, just what I was looking for.

I want to do something... and the Accusump is cheaper and an easier install, and will look cooler also.

 

I only get the big red low-pressure light flicker on a few corners on a few tracks and I suspect this will solve 98% of my problems.

Tj

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The AZC oil pan has drainback issues if your pump is moving a lot of oil.  Customer car pumped the sump dry in turn 2 at WSIR running a high pressure turbo oil pump in his 240Z.  Drilling five 1/2" holes on the windage size of the pan baffle solved the problem.  An Accusump just buys you time, it doesn't solve oiling problems.  Depending on your car you get from 3 to 10 seconds of oil pressure maintenance from the Accusump.

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A little off topic, but I noticed my oil pressure drop a bit on engine braking just after the timing lights at the drag strip this week (decelling from around 6200 rpm). Nothing really bad, I just noticed it drop below the grease pencil mark on my stock gauge. Once I got back on the gas for the drive down the return track, the oil pressure returned to normal.

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So my question if the 2quart is adequate versus the 3 quart seems mute.

Bigger being better...

 

Based on what I have seen out the corner of my right eye this would be fine.

 

OK... so who has a used one for sale...

Are they mechanical inside?  A spring on a diaphragm?

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It is all contained in the cylinder. You set the pressure using air pressure. It has an air valve (like on a tire) where you can fill it up, and a gauge to tell you the pressure. If you set it to 50PSI on the air side, that means it will fill up with oil when pressure is above 50PSI and when your block pressure drops below 50PSI it dumps the oil.

Accusump is good for top end lube as well for prestart. They make the mechanical flip open valve that you can do by hand and they also make an electric valve that you can flip with a switch. Before you start the engine you can open the valve (provided its filled up) and it will dump, you can see the pressure reading on a gauge while its dumping. Before you shut down, rev the motor so you can get the oil pressure up while you shut the valve, then shut the motor off.


Don't have your accusump dump straight into an oil cooler.

 

 

 

I guess pick a size that will suit your track purposes and space constraints. 10 seconds is a long time, for tracks around here, to be in an oil starving situation.

Like this, sir

Edited by josh817
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I use a longacre low oil pressure warning light hooked up to a 85dB siren in my L30 240Z track car.

 

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=368&catid=11

 

If the oil pressure drops below the set point I can hear the alarm even with a helmet on.  I've never heard it with my 2 quart Accusump enabled but if I forget to turn on the Accusump the alarm chirps in every hard brake zone.

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The 2 liter Accusump has worked flawlessly for me running 235 NT01's on road courses.  On a good day I can generate about 1.1G's of steady state cornering load on a long sweeper.  If you have more grip you may uncover the pickup more than I do.  My L30 is a Rebello unit that I run with a set of 44mm Mikuni's.  Great little track car.

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I have 6000 hard track miles on my L30.  I checked the valve lash and compression a few weeks ago and it shows no sign of wear.  Dave builds a great engine.  I monitor AFR's on the track with with a wide band and rejet as necessary.  I've got 3 hours of dyno time booked on the 4th to do some fine tuning.

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I don't have anything useful to add about the oil system, but I do about searching HybridZ. The built in search engine SUCKS, it's bad, don't use it. This site is indexed by google and completely searchable via google, google's search engine is very good. To use it go to google, type "site:hybridz.org" then whatever terms you want to search for. You can also use googles search modifiers to search for phrases, exclude words, etc. https://support.google.com/websearch/answer/136861?hl=

 

Here is an example search for "dry oil pan"

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&rlz=1C1PRFC_enUS516US516&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&aqs=chrome.0.57j58.9450j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

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I don't have anything useful to add about the oil system, but I do about searching HybridZ. The built in search engine SUCKS, it's bad, don't use it. This site is indexed by google and completely searchable via google, google's search engine is very good. To use it go to google, type "site:hybridz.org" then whatever terms you want to search for. You can also use googles search modifiers to search for phrases, exclude words, etc. https://support.google.com/websearch/answer/136861?hl=

 

Here is an example search for "dry oil pan"

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&rlz=1C1PRFC_enUS516US516&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&aqs=chrome.0.57j58.9450j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I kinda know that...

              but my Z is off getting a cage built and I can't really do much to it,  so I am "s30 lonely" and wanted some personal interaction..  I knew I'd get called out eventually.

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I'm with John C and Jonh M, I love the Accusump. It doesn't SOLVE problems, but it DOES buy time. And that is nice to have, especially with a turbo on the car.

I have to say, I have an Accusump and a Comp Oil Pan as well (two in fact) they just aren't on any car right now!

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I'm with John C and Jonh M, I love the Accusump. It doesn't SOLVE problems, but it DOES buy time. And that is nice to have, especially with a turbo on the car.

I have to say, I have an Accusump and a Comp Oil Pan as well (two in fact) they just aren't on any car right now!

 

We can fix that...

Accusump is so relatively easy and clean.

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What is swirling in my head is when does this system start to kick in.

Ideally I want it to sit there until pressure is below some point and THEN start contributing.

 

For instance, I really only care about its contribution below xxPSI.

If the engine is at 30psi, I don't want it involved necessarily.

IF the engine is at 10, yes I want help from the Accusump

 

So lets say I wanted a floor of 20 engine psi.

A guy could put in a 40psi breakaway valve and if you have 60 in the bottle and the Delta-P from Bottle to engine is great than that 40PSI the Accusump begins to contribute.    So in this case the engine oil pressure drops below 20psi, the bottle is at 60psi and now it starts to augment oil pressure.

 

Example 1:  http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-8C2-KZDR-40&item=c80b8fbe-343c-49a5-8ef1-2a086c6523b7#

 

Example 2:  Connect the system with a checkvalved bypass to keep it always topped at the max pressure it might ever see.  Then connect the solenoid to open when the Low Pressure switch is made or at maybe a 10psi  position.  Additionally the valve can open during starter engagement.    Aweful complex...

Gee I hope I get my car back soon, idle hands + idle mind = thinking.

Edited by duragg
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