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T56 Clutch & flywheel questions


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Hello, I am working on putting a LT1 T56 behind a 2 piece rear main 350 in my late 74 260Z.  There are a few issues with this combo that I could not find a good answer to by searching.  I am trying to deside on what clutch, flywheel & hydraulics I should use on this setup.  I would like to avoid having to buy the $400 center force or Mcleod flywheel for using the factory T56 clutch, so I have been looking at Hydraulic throw out bearings.  The only throw out bearing I can find listed for doing this swap to the older block is through Ram clutches, in the description of the product it says that spacers may be needed for the transmission.  Does anyone know of a good combination of clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing & pressure plate?

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I think Mcleod might have a flywheel that uses all the LT1 pressure plates and flywheels.

I did a post on this years ago when I was considering a 400SBC mated to the LT1 T56

It may still be posted, search, I used a 7/8" Tilton master that bolted right in (Save the shaft/adaptor from your stock master) and a Metal T5 slave from AutoZone (Late 80's Camaro) with -3AN braided hose and the GM Quik-connect to -3AN adaptor at the slave.  (Russel 640281)

There is a bleeder on the slave.

This is also posted here somewhere

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Not the Mcleod specifically, but I have an LSx-style T56 and it came with a stock coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing just like the Mcleod and I don't like it.  The hydraulic fluid gets contaminated with clutch dust, which can lead to master cyl and slave cyl failure and requires frequent flushes of the hydraulic fluid.  My clutch fluid starts to discolor after a single trip to work and is totally black in a month.  I flush it after every couple of races trying fruitlessly to keep it clean.  It is because the moving part of the hydraulics are inside the bellhousing.  I've talked to other people who aren't bothered by the dirty hydraulic fluid and just let it ride, but it really bugs me.  Have heard same problem exists with the Mcleod.  The stock style LT external slave cylinder/fork gets around this because it is outside the bellhousing.  I have actually thought about going to an LT-style T56 if/when this one pukes out.  Also, the only way to adjust the hydraulic slave is to pull down the tranny and shim (and my stock TOB really needs a shim), whereas the external slave should be able to be adjusted with everything fully assembled.  You may get different opinions, but I'd stick with a stock-style system.

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The reason I have been looking for other options is that the LT1 T56 clutch required a aftermarket flywheel for the 2 piece rear main seal engine.  Most of the flywheel options are heavy at 30 lbs & all over $400.  I have a 15 Lbs 2 piece rear main flywheel, but would have to covert to a push style clutch to use it.  So its about the same amount of money either way I go, I am starting to lean towards a fidanza flywheel.  But I do appreciate everyone opinions on the subject.

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Also check Spec Clutch for a flywheel.  I have a one-piece rear seal Gen 1 roller cam block and have purchased a fidanza aluminum flywheel with steel insert for clutch face.  I purchased a Centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate.  Now texis30O says they go to trash easily.  I am going to purchase a Spec Stage 2 or greater clutch and pressure plate as I have a VERY high performance 383 stroker.  Spec Clutch also sells flywheels.

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I used a Weir products bellhousing. It uses a regular old say, 198? flywheel & clutch assembly. I couldn't

find his website, but his number is 800-633-9869. He's in California. nice product.

You may also be able to find a Quick Time bellhousing. Tilton & quartermaster both sell hyd. release bearings.

 hope this helps    

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I am using a Weir kit as well, but would source another way of doing it if repeating the process.  Actually if repeating, I would sell the T56 and go with a WC T5.  

 

Anyways, I am running a Ram clutch/pressure plate with a McLeod  steel flywheel with Weir's Hydraulic throwout(wich is a PITA to bleed).

 

Cheers

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I liked the Weir because it uses off the shelf flywheel & clutch. Not sure what the hyd. release is from, but if it crapped out, I think I could find something. I used to hate bleeding mine also. last time it was out, I added a 24 inch, -3 line to it. bleeds in no time time now. I stole the idea from the 'vette guys.  

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