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LT1 in 240z. How low is your oilpan? Need photos please


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The shop working on my car is concerned with how the oilpan is sitting below the crossmember under the car. They say around an inch and a half. I used the JTR kit and the suggested motor mounts. Any ideas? Pictures of underneath your cars would be very helpful. I am using a 95 lt1/T56 from an FBody. Thanks.

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I have a similar combination except the oil pan is a dual kick-out type.  The bottom of the oil pan is a small amount below the front cross-member.  It is a 7" deep racing pan.  Suggest you take a measurement from the bottom of the block to the bottom of the oil pan.  Should not be much more than 7 inches.

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I'm a bit hesitant to suggest it but Kevko Racing makes custom depth pans, and you can get it with a trapdoor setup too. I ordered and got mine just fine and so did 74_5.0L_Z, but I sent someone else there and he had some hassles before it was finally made right, caveat emptor.

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I have a related question:

 

So there are a few of you here that run the T56 trans. Currently my setup has a TH350 behind an older 350, and Im gonna go through all the work to convert myself over to one of the T56 trans in the future so I can actually use the car as a driver. Right now Im using an OEM oil pan that sits level with the bottom of the cross member. So my engine is obviously really high and it sits forward. I plan on at least moving it back some and seeing how far I can drop the engine down when I convert the trans as a custom driveshaft will be in the works again, so I might as well get it as right as possible.

 

So here is my query: the oil pan is about the same level as the transmission pan on my TH350... Where are your T56 transmission housings relative to your oil pan? If you get a shorter oil pan does the transmission then become the lowest point? And there isnt much compensation that can be done to clearance that, but I assume those that have done this have found some happy medium where the transmission isnt sticking down more than an inch below the car correct?

 

I already worry about my collectors and speed bumps, Id rather not worry about my transmission... of course I could strap some mag plates to the bottom of the frame rails as clearance stops and see how cool that would be!

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I have a T56 transmission and it would be the last item to have concern about clearance to the ground.  First comes the exhaust down tubes from the headers.  Second comes the Oil Pan.  Third MAY be the transmission bell-housing.  Next would be the front cross[member.

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rsicard: which mounts are you using? Im just looking at my flexplate, which should be the same diameter as a flywheel and it is exactly 7" from the bottom of the block at the lowest point. So the transmission housing has to cover that so it would indeed be lower than a 7" pan(which is what I currently have). So the transmission in theory would hang below the oil pan and the oil pan would be below my cross member at 7" deep when I drop the engine down like the modern kits do!

 

My headers/collectors measure from the bottom of the block @ oil filter mount location(same as bottom of the block where the pan bolts) 8 3/4" to the bottom lowest point... which will be an issue for me but Id bet the transmission bell housing isnt any lower than the headers(which is what Im hoping to figure out).

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The JTR engine and transmission mounts were used.  With the headers and down pipes, they have to clear the oil filter and starter on the other side.  Used 2 1/2 inch down pipes.  Headers are stainless steel yet 1 5/8 inch primary tube diameter.  I will likely use these for now but want to go to 3 inch down pipes and larger header primary pipes.

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I have an lt1with jtr mounts. I ran the stock pan until it was cracked. The pavement was heaved up in the center of the lane. It put a crack on the pan. No engine damage but I was lucky. I put a canton race pan on it. Now the cross member is lower than the pan.

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I don't have the pn. Out of town now and can't get to the car. The pan has the kick outs on both sides. I did have to modify the exhaust a bit to make it fit. I installed it with the motor in the car but I do have a lift. The lift made it much easier.

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You can swap the oil pan out in the car, it is not easy but can be done.

Be careful with the front and rear seals not moving, especially the rear.

Be sure to check the oil pick-up tube and the new pan clearance. do a dry fit with silly putty or something similar to check pick up tube clearance not being too little or too much.

I think the 7 quart TransDap Hamburger pan and pick-up tube with the high volume Mellings pump might of had something to do with my rod bearing failure but I haven't removed the pan on that engine yet to verify

 

I will eventually finish the other LT1 and use the Hamburger pan again.

 

I still don't understand how your engine sits so low when my LT1 is slightly higher than the crossmember.

I'll jack it up and take some pics maybe this weekend.

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