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madkaw

Ms3x install

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I don’t know if I’m the one to say the stepper is hard to set up since I am not as systematic as others, but I don’t think it’s user friendly and there are many variables to figure out. Like how many steps is your specific stepper and what’s is the best method of power to use( always on, only moving) , etc... 

Then the cranking steps , polarity, and just general idle tune to complicate matters. 

Hopefully I will be posting up a successful tune to help others - after the Richard eye balls my tune to make sure something isn’t crazy. 

It is nice when it works ! 

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Well my engine starting running like poop, and I blamed it all on the IAC. But I hated it it anyway, so I decided to go back to the old AAR valve. I had one laying around from a 82 intake I had. 

Really don’t think it was/ is the issue , since with the IAC deleted, it still runs like poop. 

Engine was surging slightly with AFR swings of a couple of points . Small popping out the tail pipe at times. I did notice that as I increased throttle input that the TPS reading was not reflecting this. I ordered a new TPS, but not really sure my tests of the TPS proved anything . It is getting 5v’s. Ohm tests I found on line did not correlate to what I found. I was at .4k ohms - 14k ohms. I read it should be 2k-10k.

Since the TPS is for a 240sx, not sure it makes a big difference with using MS3.

 

Not sure what else to look at. I closed off all vacuum sources. Plugs look decent. All plugs are firing ,timing checked. All Tuner Studio reading seems normal EXCEPT, AFR mismatch of my Spartan 14/7 . I am reading 1 point less on my wideband gauge vs. the TS gauge. 

 

Also found that that my alternator belt loose and the battery was not getting charged to peak performance. 

 

At at this point I am waiting on the new TPS to see what it does. 

 

Id take any ideas

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Just make sure you charge the battery completely once alternator is fixed and make sure the battery is good. We had one vehicle run terrible and tried everything for weeks on and off only to end up being a bad battery that supplied low volts to the entire system.

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25 minutes ago, mobythevan said:

Just make sure you charge the battery completely once alternator is fixed and make sure the battery is good. We had one vehicle run terrible and tried everything for weeks on and off only to end up being a bad battery that supplied low volts to the entire system.

 

Yes- I didn’t like what I was seeing as far as volts on my TS, so that’s what prompted me to check the alternator. Once the belt was tightened up a bit , it did seem better. 

I was see 12+ volts before  - now more than 13+.

Running an Optima battery, which I had issues with the previous Optima. I am kind of skeptical of this battery. 

 

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Steve. I'm working on finding a better Injector battery correction curve for your injectors. The default setting is way off. Unfortunately your injectors are proving hard to find the DT voltage correction tables. I may have to use something close. In the meantime, can you send me your Current Tune. Or the last one that was working properly?  I don't have your current version on file.

 

Could be something entirely unrelated as well. 

 

Just as a hunch. Reflash your firmware with a newly downloaded version. Be sure to save the old Project.  I've had some experiences with the Firmware on MS getting somehow corrupted. This has happened to a couple of cars. Does some very strange things. 

 

 Back from Vacation now...

 

Richard

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1 hour ago, Chickenman said:

Steve. I'm working on finding a better Injector battery correction curve for your injectors. The default setting is way off. Unfortunately your injectors are proving hard to find the DT voltage correction tables. I may have to use something close. In the meantime, can you send me your Current Tune. Or the last one that was working properly?  I don't have your current version on file.

 

Could be something entirely unrelated as well. 

 

Just as a hunch. Reflash your firmware with a newly downloaded version. Be sure to save the old Project.  I've had some experiences with the Firmware on MS getting somehow corrupted. This has happened to a couple of cars. Does some very strange things. 

 

 Back from Vacation now...

 

Richard

 

Though the correction curve might be off, this engine ran well and I hadn’t changed anything in that category. Now maybe my battery voltage was making a situation worse. Also could be unrelated like you said, and as I mentioned I didn’t like the easy the TPS was acting. 

Giving my back a break until new TPS gets in. Maybe get a session in next week 

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My latest arrangement . I moved the IAT from the intake manifold to intake tube. Attached valve cover breather to intake boot. Also ditched my stepper IAC . Tired of it’s inconsistent behavior. Went back to a AAR valve that’s mounted low on the inner fender . Need to dial it in, but first try I got a fast idle !! I’ve got the AAR on a relay controlled from the programmable on/off outputs on the 3x harness. Did the same with the wideband. Neither will work unless the engine is turning . This way I can keep my ignition in run position to play with the MS and not worry about burning up stuff .

Time for more tuning

73E448E3-3842-4D6D-9851-8A854B86C96C.jpeg

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I'll have to see if my Haltech E11 has any better stepper motor set-up.  Might just go with the good ol' AAR valve setup. I've previously used a Z31 AAR valve.

 

Have AC though, so I need an idlle load increase. Might do it with Advanced Idle control. Should be able to trigger some extra idle advance when AC is on.  

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Well so far the AAR valve is a bust. Not truly familiar how these exactly work, but it seems that it resets itself way too fast. So the valve closes as the engine runs , as it should. I run into the house for a few minutes and I come out and I’m starting over again with a wide open valve. So the bi metal is weak, worn, acting normal? 

Yes it’s a used one and I cleaned it the best I can, and it was pretty clean. 

School me!

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On 12/11/2018 at 6:05 PM, madkaw said:

Well so far the AAR valve is a bust. Not truly familiar how these exactly work, but it seems that it resets itself way too fast. So the valve closes as the engine runs , as it should. I run into the house for a few minutes and I come out and I’m starting over again with a wide open valve. So the bi metal is weak, worn, acting normal? 

Yes it’s a used one and I cleaned it the best I can, and it was pretty clean. 

School me!

That's what the heater plate underneath the Valve is for. Circulates hot water under the AAR Valve and keeps it closed when engine is warmed up. 

 

Normal operation for AAR valve with out the heater plate. Quite frankly it's never bothered me.

 

Your big problem is you never mounted AAR valve in the stock location, which is the Top of the Intake Manifold. You mounted it on the fender well, which is not the correct location.  Engine heat from Intake Manifold alone ( no heater plate ) keeps the AAR Valve quite Warm and Toasty. So it doesn't reset nearly as fast. Engine heat or coolant heat is necessary so AAR valve stays closed when engine is hot. 

 

In fact, I've never bothered with the  FUGLY coolant " Hot Plate "....  and the Z31 AAR valve works very well mounted to stock location on Intake manifold.  

 

 

Edited by Chickenman

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Yes - I did some reading and realized that it needed to be mounted on top of the intake- which probably isn’t going to happen. I don’t think I’m ready to give up on the IAC .

Besides - I’m having other issues right now

 I’m pretty sure my CAS is giving me issues - so I’m troubleshooting it right now.

Found greasy condensation mess in my PCB coming from my MAP sensor . 

Also checking voltage for my VR sensor circuit. 

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So the engine is running pretty good. What I’ve noticed is that the TPS is not as sensitive as I would like it to be. It does not register off-idle as accurately as it should. I can move the throttle enough to bring the rpms up from 1k to 1500 and TS won’t even show movement. I’ve tried adjusting, calibrating , but it seems to be an issue of the TPS not being sensitive enough to small inputs. It is an aftermarket for my 240sx TB. And I have replaced it recently. I probably should have ponied up for a Nissan one. What I think it is doing is showing me at idle when I’m not . 

I guess I need to check voltages everywhere.

I did verify that my sensor voltage coming from the MS is 4.95v. I need to test this at my sensors. 

Ordered a new O2 gauge . Ordered the Spartan gauge to match my Spartan wideband, maybe my numbers which match each other now. 

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41 minutes ago, madkaw said:

Remember what year you used?

 

No idea. I just went to the junkyard and looked around until I found one. It has the same three pin connector on the top as the L series ones, but another pig tail coming out of it's bottom. Resolution isn't a problem, as it's nearly infinitely variable. The smallest possible change causes a resistance change. If you're having resolution issues it sounds like it's stepping, which doesn't sound right at all.

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