Guest LIghtningZ Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 I'll probably get fifty lashes with an FSM i dont have mine yet, but can anybody help me out with cam tower and head torque speaks , also upon pulling the original head off of my L28 i found that several head bolts had a coating of what looked like carbon or exaust soot??? any ideas?? one more thing... i also broke a stud off just above the(just over a quarter inch of stud showing)head surface i dont have accses to a wire feed any more so i cant weld a nut to it to remove and the head wont budge with it still in, almost daring to use an engine puller to yank the head and then pull the stud. any suggestions...and yes vie-grips are out to!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 the head should come off if all of the other studs are removed...(unless you missed the 2 10mm bolts on the front of the head). try shooting some anti-sieze oil around the stud and allow it to penetrate. Hopefully that will free it up enough that it will let the head go!! good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 If it does not come off with the penetrating oil--- use the hoist. I busted "three" head bolts once on a 1978 L 28 all around the water jackets on a blown head gasket. I could not get the head off. I used the engine hoist too after removing all the intake/exhaust bolts that I broke a few of those too. LOL the whole car lifted up by the head and it still would not come off. Since I had another engine it was easier to pull and replace the motor than fooling with the head which is a PITA to take the intake and exhaust bolts off a 1978.This was about the most frustrating jobs I ever did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 If the head doesn't want to come off you need to double-check that you've removed the two bolts with 10mm heads that go vertically at the front of the head on the outside and attach the head and timing cover together. You wouldn't be the first to miss these in removing the head. From what I can tell, the torque on the cam tower bolts (8mm thread, 12mm bolt head) is 10-12ft-lbs. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 Would anti-seaze compound help to prevent that in the future? I've heard of alot of these head bolts snapping off. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 HEad bolts go to 60 ft-lbs., and I was thinking 20 on the cam towers, but will defer to Daw's rec. As someone who struggled to remove a turbo this weekend, even after using anti-seize (not the copper kind though) I would suggest a thorough soaking with liquid wrench or some sort of penetrating oil, followed by some tapping on the stuck bolt with a hammer or something. Don't vent your frustrations, just tap it to help get the stuff down in there. As it comes out, keep skeeting the stuff in there, and tighen and loosen the bolt to get the stuff deeper in the block. Eventually, you will get the thing loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 1, 2002 Share Posted July 1, 2002 The reason I'm not positive re cam tower bolt torque is that Nissan recommends they never be removed so I couldn't find published specs for these, but the Nissan factory service manual lists torques for bolts re their thread size. With it going into aluminum, I wouldn't go over 20. You can remove cam towers and it's done all the time to shim towers. When you install the cam loosen the tower bolts, install cam without rockers, rotate the cam a few times while snugging down the tower bolts and make sure it turns OK when bolts are tight; if not, loosen and repeat. I routinely use anti-seize compound on head bolts and I swap the bolts from the locations that appear corroded or toasty with those that look great. I'm not clear on what's happening with the broken headbolt/head won't come off. Did the top of the bolthead (socket-head, 10mm) break partially? DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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