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Good tuner near Charlotte North Carolina


bigbreak_2000

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Can anyone recommend a good tuner within 100 miles of Charlotte NC? I have a Rebello 3.2 L6 with ITBs and aftermarket ECU, it needs a good re-tune. I think the motor is also restricted on the intake side so I need someone to see what I have and give me good advise on getting the motor to run optimal.

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I take my car to Nisstech for regular maintenance, factory stock parts and light mods - they are super super good at that. But for standalone ECU map tuning I need someone with access to a dyno. The idling is smooth, drivability all been sorted out already. I do most of the ECU tune just by analyzing log files. The areas I need help with are

 

1) to set the max safe timing in the mid range (3000prms up) at 60% load and up. I had audible knock which I adjusted the timing for, it is quiet now but I may have retarded a bit too much. I also need to recalibrate my knock sensor to mask valve train noises. I still see knock values in the 3k-3.5k range. My timing between 3-4k rpms is low 20's..

 

2) I had the top end tuned by Franz Diebolt up in Virginia. We only got 240whp and the motor was maxing out at 6.5k rpms. However since then I discovered that there was an issue with the throttle linkage not opening the butterflies all the way...it was maxed out at 81% according to the tps reading. So I made an adjustment to the gas pedal and now I visually can see the throttles are wide open when the gas pedal is fully pressed, and the tps now reads 100%. So I want to get the top end retuned. But before I have that done I want someone to help me think through the best intake solution for the motor. Right now I am just using a TWM Airbox with a Vibrant filter (5W X 3L) at the end. I don't know if here are better filter options and if I should move the filter out of the engine compartment to the front of the radiator where I presume it will get cooler air and perhaps the "piping" will give a little better airflow (velocity effect) into the airbox.

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IncompetentOne..shoot me a PM with your contact number. I have several stock parts if that is what you're looking for. They're all like new and usable for any restore project. Came of my car that only had 14k original miles on. Intake manifold, ECU, wiring harness, fan clutch, MAF sensor, intake rubber boots, different Fuel Inj sensors, air filter (stock and K&N cone style), fuel pump, fuel rail, bake pads, etc. I basically restored the stock 2.8 motor to a like new condition, this way I learned how all the OEM stuff worked together, and than I got bored and decided to go a different route with a more performance orientated motor. Over time I also upgraded flywheel, clutch, suspension shocks and springs, front brakes and differential but those OEM parts have already found a new home. In a few days I am replacing the steering rack, and swapping Tokico rear shocks with Bilsteins if you want the rear set of Tokico's let me know..they have less than 500 miles on . I originally ordered the Bilsteins from Germany but they took 3 months to get and now I have them so I will try them out. I am also considering selling the Compomotive ML wheel and BFG tires, this is an extra set that I kept for summer driving. They are just taking space in my garage. The wheels and tires are also like new and less than 2000 miles on. The wheels are 15x7 front and 15x8 rear, all 0 offset, bolt pattern 4x114.3. Really strong wheels. I special imported them from the UK. Gunmetal color. The tires are BFG 205/55 front and 225/50 rear. Its BFG G-force sport tires. V rated tires. The sidewalls are hard and the profile is just too low for my car, it dropped my ground clearance to 3.5 in and road surfaces are bad in my part of town so I changed to a 60 profile and slightly softer sidewall tire, on 7 in wheels. But the compomotives are sturdy and BGG tires have excellent grip, a very nice combination for a track car.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't know what the inlet size of the TWM intake cover is - but it may be possible that is a choke point?  An easy way to tell is to do a full throttle run,(data logged w/ wideband), then do another w/it removed.  No difference - likely not the culprit or contributing factor.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

NC folks I recommend this shop for people in the east of the state. They seem pretty knowledgable about Z engines and did some quite beautiful head work for me recently. Disclosure before you click the link, they're based in Richlands (or Jacksonville, depending on who you ask), which is about 45 miles from the coast. They're pretty friendly to boot. 

 

P&M Perfmormance Racing Engines:

http://gofastmotors.com/

 

Edit: fixed misspelling

Edited by Trevor_280ZX
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When you say audible knock, do you mean through the headphones when listening through the Adaptronic? Or when listening only with your ears?

 

Has your knock threshold been tuned in the Adaptronic?

 

Regardless, low 20's seems low, especially at only part throttle. It makes me think your base timing mght be off. And/Or, you're running very lean. Do you have high compression and a mild or stock cam?

 

Do you still have the distributor, or are you running wasted spark coils? If you still have the distributor, is the advance locked?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but it seems to me that there may be an issue beyond tuning that must be pipointed first.

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  • 2 months later...

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