whatnow123 Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 I used the fuel pump that is in the Camaro tank and it seems to work perfectly! It's a fuel injection pump so hopefully that is what you are running otherwise you are going to have to figure something else out if it's a carb. I also used the Mustang regulator. To strap it down, I used the Camaro straps and had some metal at work that looks like a "flat" u shape with tabs to run along the top of the tank. I bolted the flat u shaped metal to the car and bolted the Camaro straps to the U shaped metal. Hopefully that makes sense as I don't think I have a decent photo of how I did it. And I DO have some updates, just haven't got around to it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow123 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Just another update.Decided that I needed a bit more "Cow Bell", you know, "I got a fever and the only prescription is more cow bell".. Anyway, my Cow Bell is in the form of some AFR 165cc aluminum heads. The stock heads for the 5.0 HO mustang motor are the choking point, followed by the intake and exhaust. The exhaust and intake are already taken care of, so I thought I'd go with some aluminum heads for the weight savings not to mention they are rumored to be the best all round head for the 5.0. Well, they are correct and did it wake up my Z!!! I also installed a rear pinion snubber by Technoversions. Didn't think much about the rear diff moving until I was chasing down a slight vibration I had at 80+ (turns out it was the driveshaft angle and I had to shim it up 1/4 of an inch). Anyway, I installed a web cam under the car to see if I could see the vibration at the pinion and I bet the front of the pinion moved 3 inches up on acceleration. Best 80 bucks I have spent on the car! It just takes right off with out the "softness" if that makes sense. Try one and you'll know what I'm talking about. To bad it's next to impossible to see my shiny new heads with all the EFI stuff in the way. Other than that, just been Zooming around enjoying the car! Edited April 30, 2015 by whatnow123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluSkyLightning Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I'm glad you found that out before something broke. Great work on the car, enjoy it man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim.d Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Love the car! Your car's build is almost identical to what I'm working on... awesome! I've got a couple questions if you don't mind: - What size tires do you have? - How do you like XXR's "Platinum" plating? - How much room is there between the 16x8's and the GC coil overs? I'm trying to decide if 9's would fit in the rear. - Are the struts sectioned? - What spring rates did you get? - What P/S pump did you use for the swap? - Did you use any fitting adapters when going through the hydraulic clutch conversion? - Did you reuse the datsun's a/c compressor or keep the ford's? Thanks for all the documentation and pictures so far! Your build gives me motivation to work on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow123 Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the nice words!! Anyway, to your questions.1. Tires are 205 x 50 16 front and 225 50 16 rear. 2. Love the wheels and how they look! Great rims for the price! 3. No idea, I will check for you. 4. No, I didn't section the struts, there is plenty of travel and I only dropped it an inch from stock. If you wanted your car much lower than an 1" from stock, sectioning would be a good idea along with camber plates as you WILL need them if it's any lower. 5. 225 front, 250 rear. Seems perfect for what I use it for (street only and some spirited driving) 6. I used the ford power steering pump. 7. All the fittings for the clutch master and slave are standard brake line fittings. 8. I used the ford AC compressor. Works perfectly! Edited June 8, 2015 by whatnow123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow123 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) So I got my car tuned and dyno'ed yesterday! After a few runs and some tweaking, she is now putting down 260hp and 287lbs of torque at the wheels!! The Dyno guy Keith (Not Rebecca Keith, who is my idol , but the dyno guy said it's about 305 and 325 at the crank! Not bad for basically a stock 5.0 ford with Heads and a couple of bolt-on's! I don't have the graph yet, but will post that once it's emailed to me and I figure out how to save the screen print. Not only is the car putting down more power (it was pretty damn fast before), but it's driving awesome!! Very happy with the results! dyno.bmp Edited August 29, 2015 by whatnow123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehren Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 this is great. you've given me a ton of inspiration. thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsethis Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Beautiful car and great build photos. I had a question about your power steering rack set-up: I assume you are using the original belt-driven power steering pump from the 5.0 to feed the Subaru steering rack. Did you add/utilize any sort of controller that adjusts pump output pressure depending on vehicle speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpdlawdog Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 I know this is an older post but what radiator did you use?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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