JMortensen Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 4) Utilize bolt in camber plates (Ground Control, DP Racing, etc.) with any 2.5" ID coil (Swift springs, Ground Control Coils, etc.) and strut combo (Koni, Tokico, etc.) of your choosing. Avoids welding the chassis, but still required to weld/shorten the struts. Novice install. I wouldn't say that the GC or DP racing plates are for the novice. I think DP has "biscuit" style plates that use two of the original bolt holes on top. That is novice level stuff, but cutting the top of the strut top for the plate is a big deal for a lot of people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdreView Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I wouldn't say that the GC or DP racing plates are for the novice. I think DP has "biscuit" style plates that use two of the original bolt holes on top. That is novice level stuff, but cutting the top of the strut top for the plate is a big deal for a lot of people. Edited it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie2619 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Can you elaborate on the advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie2619 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Sorry I took so long to come back to this topic. Replacing the rubber top hats will lower the car about 1 1/2 inches. So to keep my current stance, (1 1/2" drop with ST springs), I would raise the coilovers the meet the the stance I currently have, thereby "increasing" wheel travel and "reducing" bump steer. My plan is to convert my front control arms to be adjustable, have the camber plates positioned outward while using the control arm adjusters on the alignment rack. This way I'll have room for negative camber on track days. Out back I plan to use t3 control arms to correct camber AND toe. Same applies to camber plates adjusted about 3/4 of the way outward. Edited March 16, 2014 by richie2619 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Reviving an old thread here I guess. did you ever determine at what height to weld your GC perch? I too have a 280Z Scarab with Old School Mulholland lowering springs and Tokico Illumina shocks, a tad low but I like it. so I will do bolt in camber plates down the road but for now I want to remove the stock spring perch use the GC coil over kit weld the new perch and then re-install my struts with the Tokico's to get additional clearance for wider rims and tires. I need new tires and want to go wider. I will call GC and ask their advice and also ask about recommended spring rates for a V8, T56 280Z Mostly car is driven during the the warm months and an occasional track day or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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