Curtball Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Curt here with a quick question. I have a 73' 240Z and I just installed the proportioning valve in my car. Replacing the one that mounts on the firewall just to the left of the brake booster. With the union and proportioning valve on I have a leak on both of them at the outgoing port. The fittings are tight, and they aren't bottomed out, but my lines for some reason have a little slack in them. When I grab it and pull it, I can feel a little free play. Do you happen to have any tips?? I noticed when removing the old proportioning valve that theirs some little inserts inside of the holes where the fittings go. Do I need something similar to this to take up the slack. Thanks for any help you can provide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Why did you install a proportioning valve? Are your rear brakes over powering the front brakes? Do you have big brakes on the rear? If not you do not need a PV. The Wilwood PV comes with a 1/8-27 NPT to 3/8-24 inverted flair adaptor fittings. The Datsun uses 10mm x 1.0 brake line fittings! You have to either use a metric adaptor (1/8-27 NPT to 10mm x 1.0) or install 3/8-24 inverted flair fittings on your Datsun brake lines to make a proper leak free connection to the PV. You could kluge together AN fittings, adaptors and hoses. Kluge = an asortment of il-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole. Flying Miata has the adaptor fittings. I have used them, but they leaked. If you do not have a brake balance problem you could put the original PV back and save a lot of time and money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks for the reply. 1) yes I'm running stage 4 front and rear big brakes. 2) I'm having some imbalance issues with the rears locking earlier 3) my Wilwood PV is the correct M10 x 1.0 taped threads. No need to convert my fittings I have appropriate reasons for everything being put on my car. But for some reason I'm having this issue. I'm going to double check my flares, and make sure they weren't over tightened or if I need to change the fittings, and reflate the lines. These are the original fittings and flare btw. The valve hasn't been tampered with prior to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks for the reply. 1) yes I'm running stage 4 front and rear big brakes. 2) I'm having some imbalance issues with the rears locking earlier 3) my Wilwood PV is the correct M10 x 1.0 taped threads. No need to convert my fittings I have appropriate reasons for everything being put on my car. But for some reason I'm having this issue. I'm going to double check my flares, and make sure they weren't over tightened or if I need to change the fittings, and reflate the lines. These are the original fittings and flare btw. The valve hasn't been tampered with prior to this Good info. Always include this kind of data when asking for input. If the fitting threads are bad it may not be turning in far enough to seal the flare which could also allow the line to move slightly. I have had leaks from fittings and deformed flares. Just re-flare the line with a new fitting or you can get a ready-made brake line from a parts store and replace the suspect line and fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Cool, I'm going to pick up some new fittings and double flare the lines today. Hopefully the solves the leak!! Will post once this has been completed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 (edited) Never seen a metric Wilwood prop valve. Didn't see it on wilwood.com either. If the fitting is right, check the flare for cracks with a magnifying glass. Just re-read. There should never be any play in the hard line. You're not tightening the fitting all the way down. Brings us back to the threads, I think. Edited March 31, 2014 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks for that. Does "BF" mean "bubble flare" as you would find on BMWs? You know that's different than double or inverted flare that was stock on Datsuns, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Yea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 That's a good question about the BF part. I'll email Wilwood along with this picture and clarify that. If so, then I need to bubble flare the lines. Might as well get this clarified before I re flare and use new fittings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack_280 Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I used a Wilwood prop valve...P/N 260-11179. I had problems with leaks for a while. I reflared my lines and it still leaked. So I ended up tightening/loosening the fittings and after a few cycles they stopped leaking. That was over a year ago and still good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Right on, I'll give that a try as well. I've emailed Wilwood about the one I have to see if BF stands for bubble flare. I'll give them a call tomorrow. As soon as I hear more about this ill post some info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I had leaks too until I reflared my lines with a good flare tool (Rigid) and Cupronickel lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Datsun uses inverted flare not bubble flare (BF). The Datsun brake lines will not seal if your PV is BF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I made new lines with the proper fitting on each end. Everything stock Datsun 240z is 45 degree double flared (female). The different accessories have different flares and nuts. I do not try to make my own bubble flares (male). I buy lines with the bubble already done then cut the Datsun end off and double that end. I learned to double flare off YouTube. You also should know that you might run into a flaring tool that is 37-degrees instead of 45. The 37-degrees is for AN lines. Just go thru it all and be sure you are using what you need. I used to only single flare but they were bad about cracking. You get better with practice. Check YouTube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Ok got ahold of Wilwood. BF does stand for bubble flare. That explains my leak. Thanks for all of the responses, I'll try all of the other tips recommended if I have any more trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Here is a flaring tool that works: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Or, go down to the local auto parts store, buy a 1' piece of bubble flared brake line, cut one end off and put the correct fitting on and double flare it and pocket the other $230 + s/h. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Or, go down to the local auto parts store, buy a 1' piece of bubble flared brake line, cut one end off and put the correct fitting on and double flare it and pocket the other $230 + s/h. Whats the fun in that? Sometimes I couldn't get the premade tubing in the dimension I needed at the parts store so I finally bought the flaring tool and a roll of tubing. Very handy when making a lot of custom lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I am having the same issue and wish I could see the image that was removed. My info has me doing a double flare. Did the info for this part number say to do a bubble flare? I am going to pull the prop valve off today or tomorrow so I can take a look at the inside to see what kind of flare is needed. Not too happy because I got brake fluid over the rails.....no more fresh paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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