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1972 240z Procharged LS6, soon to be turbo!


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  • 3 months later...

Made a few dyno passes, but ran out of injectors (80lbers). Maxed out in the low 900rwhp. The tuning was done by Nate at AOP in Fresno. Car drives like its stock, but makes an insane amount of power.

After that, the only thing left to do, was go to the track again!
80-cruisin_bcfff4edc017540bd4b124fa83d05
Car drove nicely the 100 miles each way. This is about as hot as it got, which considering the blower setup ran around 215 on the freeway was AWESOME.

80-burnout_082957238fbdda8bf1f708d0679e9
80-timeslip_2e38b1cfdf89c1a776da7530e6f9
Car did well, still only 15-16lbs of boost, but we adjusted the suspension a bit. I plan on going a bit faster this year. :D

 

Video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyX5XkKVZ-k

I believe this pass is the fastest pass for an LS powered Datsun to date.

Sadly, a few passes after my 8.7, I saw a drop in oil pressure on the return road (About 15 at idle down from 30), so I trailered the car home. Motor still ran perfectly, but I didn't want to hurt anything. I was planning on refreshing the engine and going for low 8s, but I picked up a new motor to play with so now I'm going to either sell the longblock as it sits if anyone is interested, refresh it and sell it for more money, or part out all the components.

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Made a few dyno passes, but ran out of injectors (80lbers). Maxed out in the low 900rwhp. The tuning was done by Nate at AOP in Fresno. Car drives like its stock, but makes an insane amount of power.

 

After that, the only thing left to do, was go to the track again!

80-cruisin_bcfff4edc017540bd4b124fa83d05

Car drove nicely the 100 miles each way. This is about as hot as it got, which considering the blower setup ran around 215 on the freeway was AWESOME.

 

80-burnout_082957238fbdda8bf1f708d0679e9

80-timeslip_2e38b1cfdf89c1a776da7530e6f9

Car did well, still only 15-16lbs of boost, but we adjusted the suspension a bit. I plan on going a bit faster this year. :D

 

Video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyX5XkKVZ-k

I believe this pass is the fastest pass for an LS powered Datsun to date.

 

Sadly, a few passes after my 8.7, I saw a drop in oil pressure on the return road (About 15 at idle down from 30), so I trailered the car home. Motor still ran perfectly, but I didn't want to hurt anything. I was planning on refreshing the engine and going for low 8s, but I picked up a new motor to play with so now I'm going to either sell the longblock as it sits if anyone is interested, refresh it and sell it for more money, or part out all the components.

 

 

Haha mine ran the best before it died, too. only it was a 9.7@150 lol. Gotta love the ol 6 speed chevy supra!

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  • 1 month later...

So I went home for an insanely hectic weekend! Pulled the old 402, and got the new 427 ready for install, hoping to get it in the car and running within my 4 day trip. Unfortunately I had incredibly bad luck all trip...

 

First I got the old motor out, wasn't much work, took about 3 hours to pull.

NCp5vCNh.jpg

Nice thing, it comes out without pulling the exhaust system apart! Which is a nightmare...

tI6Ibmsh.jpg

 

Next I prepped the new motor, put in the biggest cam I've ever run by far (Thanks to DRC for the beast cam), and swapped over the peripherals for the install. Unfortunately this is where it started to go downhill. The new motor had Lunati Link bar lifters, and 6 out of 16 of them decided to lock out in full extension and were unwilling to compress back down no matter what I did. Luckily I caught this on the cam install otherwise I would have been in for a world of bent valves on my expensive ass 6 bolt heads :( . So I had to pull the heads and install the short block alone, and next trip I will be putting in some Comp or high end Morel lifters. (Looking into the short travel style lifter now)

TFCKirmh.jpg

So you can probably see my massive rats nest up there above the motor... That was driving me nuts since after I built my car originally, I did the wiring for Infidel's car and his is a billion times cleaner looking than mine. Since I had free time due to the lifter fiasco, I figured I would clean up the wiring behind the engine. This turned into redoing the ENTIRE engine harness, which was a fun adventure of re wrapping every section nice and tightly, and hiding all the main harnesses behind the engine. This is the result: (Obviously it isn't laid out for the wiring on the motor in the picture, but thats all confined to two banks now and everything is exactly the correct length now.)

SSV9NTJh.jpg

 

After the wiring was complete, I decided to tackle ANOTHER project that was sitting around mocking me, which is my NRG detachable steering wheel. When my window net is up at the track, its almost impossible to maneuver around in my car, due to my 6'2" 220lb stature, and the fact that we had to remove 2" of seat space for the 28+" wheel tubs. So I decided a removable steering wheel would make my life so much easier at the track.

 

I didn't want to add a bunch of length to the steering column though, and the slim series NRG was not easily manipulated with fire gloves on, so I opted with the winged design instead and cut down a Sparco steering wheel hub adapter. We took about 1 1/2" of length and retained the crush style bracket so in an accident it will safely collapse. After that, the install was a cinch, just bolted it together and ran the wire for the horn button. (I use that for my trans brake at the track, so its important it works perfectly)

P5bfmWFh.jpgzMdNlklh.jpg

Sorry about the awful picture quality, my phone was not being very cooperative this trip for some reason. One day I will invest in a decent camera...

Edited by mistafosta
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Also, as for the engine damage, looks like the #2 and #4 main bearings took a bit of a beating. I'm told this is indicative of block flex on an aluminum block. (I was making mid 900RWHP on my last few passes, seems my block was not a fan) Luckily I pulled the motor early, and found it, so there was very little damage done. Only the bearings took much abuse, all the hard parts look to be fine. I'm pending sale on this engine to a friend who is going to be swapping it into an IS300 most likely, which will be a really cool build IMO.

 

Heres some pictures of the engine

SlDGbU2l.jpg

Pistons were fine, just had a bit of buildup from the 30k miles. The coating seemed to let the carbon stick better, which is a bit annoying. Slight scuffing on the skirts, but no major scuffs and no traded metals, which is pretty common on a 4" stroke LS engine.

 

Zl7Bl35l.jpg

Rods looked perfect. Bearings were good, no overheating and no spinning at all.

 

ENVnzUml.jpg

Bores were fine, the camera picks up the vertical lines more than the eye, the walls were perfectly smooth, and the crosshatching is still there in its entirety.

 

kjZjCy9l.jpgmzlL6xZl.jpg

Heres the culprit! This is the #2 crank bearing. Both #2 and #4 looked pretty similar on top and bottom. #1, 3, and 5 were fine, no major wear and no sign of thrust wear at all.

 

eaHtTgUl.jpg

You can see the mushrooming of the bearing in this picture. These ones just fell out when I unbolted the mains, they were no longer the correct size due to warpage. Crank didn't look like it saw too much heat, and the block/caps looked fine as well. Glad I pulled the motor when I saw a small decrease in oil pressure instead of ignoring it and just continuing on... This would have gone from minor rebuild, to major overhaul if I had waited.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Mistafosta, do you have any post-repair pics of your frame rails? The very first pic you posted of the front frame rail/firewall area looks like my driver side area that i'm about to start repairing. Good build by the way! The welds on that new upper intake piece are amazing.

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Mistafosta, do you have any post-repair pics of your frame rails? The very first pic you posted of the front frame rail/firewall area looks like my driver side area that i'm about to start repairing. Good build by the way! The welds on that new upper intake piece are amazing.

Lemme see if I can find some. If not, I can take pictures when I get home again next week. We just did simple steel and welded it to the rails for re-enforcement. Was very easy, and turned out pretty clean. These pictures are from my old ass camera phone, I'll take better ones when I get home.

IyVppTJm.jpg0b4eDPLm.jpg

 

Also, Update:

 

My buddy stopped by (Since I live halfways across the country from my car), installed new lifters (To replace the junk lunati failures) and torqued down the heads. Also took my intake to get powdercoated as well! Can't wait to see it. These pictures are awful as well. My buddy has allergies to technology....

ib4EZu2m.jpgb69B6gMm.jpgkiV1S5ym.jpg

 

Also test fit another turbo, just in case I decide to upgrade sometime soon to match my huge ass engine...

nkM93jom.jpgbpTNjJPm.jpgj9dn4igm.jpg

 

This is a GTX55 frame turbo. Looks like it will fit just fine with some help :D Someday I will be able to afford one. (This is a friend's turbo)

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Made some progress today, got the intake and VCs coated

 

nDFrTJEl.jpg

 

Then installed! Should have her fired up tomorrow. EM8adPpl.jpg

QqZnJuRl.jpg

 

I also got my cowl hood fitted, and will be installing it after I paint it tomorrow. (Well, after Infidel paints it for me, cause I'm terrible at that stuff)

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New motor is alive! Sounds great, drives nice. It runs a little warmer (About 10-15 degrees max) but its an iron block 427 vs an aluminum block 402, so its understandable. Didn't have time to tune it this trip, but I'll get it dropped off for that within the month most likely. GfKjPnOl.jpg3Bi2MgYl.jpg

fBayqAyl.jpgbFLTD0el.jpg

 

Excuse the mess, I'm a slob when I'm working on this car. Mostly due to trying to get weeks worth of work done in days....

 

Ironically after all that, I forgot to take a picture of the new hood installed. I now have a cowl induction hood, and I'm contemplating installing the vents from my old hood on it.

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