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The "Ultimate" IRS Swap for S30s


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Well it isn't going to rust like the carbon so I opted not to coat it. But I didn't realize sand blasting would give it the texture look like it did, it really needed media blasted of some sort instead of sand. But I think the texture look it got turned out looking pretty decent. Do you think it would have been better to just coat it? I was half and half on coating vs not coating.

 

-Will

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My Z is my midlife crisis car! It used to be my young and rebellious car. Someday it will be my old-timey car.

Lol you guys get butt hurt over the most trivial things. Armchair coaches have always been funny to watch and listen to.

Hopefully sooner rather than later. Planning on learning to run the waterjet this week so I can cut at night, since getting the current operator to cut stuff for me is like pulling hairs. Hopefully ca

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Ok guys, I've been meaning to get something together as far as how everything goes together but haven't had a chance. Was going to do it tonight but my jump drive with all my models on it is up at work. So here goes this:

 

  1. The mustache bar is not symmetrical side to side and the mustache bar mounts have an angle cut in them. The mustache bar angles DOWN towards the front of the car. This is because the explorer rear cover has slanted bolt holes. The diff mount holes are biased CLOSER to the drivers side of the car. There are 1/2 thick aluminum spacers between the mustache bar and the differential. There are 1/2 thick aluminum spacers, (1) 1/2 extra thick flat washer, and (1) 1/2 lock washer on the bottom of the mustache bar mount to allow the nut to get tight before bottoming out on the threads.
  2. The front diff mount should be pretty easy. Just fits up there and uses the supplied bolts. The part that captures the bottom part of the diff mount must be installed after the diff goes up obviously and bolts up to the same holes. The actual diff mount bolt goes up from the bottom then the nut goes on top. It's a little tricky but a wrench on top and a ratchet on bottom and its not too bad. Trboflyer has brought up that his diff mount hole isn't lining up properly and I'm not sure what the reason is yet. There is also a washer that is part of the front differential bushing that goes on the bottom. It is a large washer with a rubber part on it that completes the front diff mount bushing. Hopefully y'all are getting that with your differentials.
  3. The Dogbone piece just bolts up in place of the factory LCA dropdown brackets and uses the factory bolts. Nothing special there just needed it because the rear diff mount holes went straight through the factory drop downs, so it needed braced.
  4. There are (4) extra thick flat washers that go on top of the coil-over spring top and below the factory top mount in order to let is seat properly.
  5. There are (2) 1/2 thick aluminum spacers that are large. These go between the hub and the F150 outer cv joint. The F150 splines are longer than the hub so the spacer is needed to ensure the axle nut works properly.
  6. Some of the gland nuts will be a little hard to thread in. My threading process was having some issues so some of them are a little tight. Think of it as a self locking mechanism. But don't be alarmed if they don't go in by hand all the way. Just take care in ensuring it gets started properly then a spanner wrench might be needed after that.
  7. Ensure the bolts that hold the strut tube to the upright are TIGHT. As I'm sure you have seen you can control camber from here and the external tooth lock washers are there to provide extra grip to keep it from slipping. So make sure they get tight tight before driving. This same location might be a pretty tight fit getting the brackets over the upright. The powder coating added some thickness which hopefully won't cause any major problems, but it will probably be a tight fit.
  8. The hub into the upright will probably be a tight fit for the same reason as above.
  9. Warning, if you put the stub axles into the 8.8 differential. They can be a PITA to get out sometimes. Just a warning if you decide to test fit them. Be prepared to cuss yourself for trying it lol.

Once again sorry for not getting some more detailed stuff yet, its been busy for me with school finishing up and what not. I will grab my drive from work tomorrow and try to get some nice 3D models for everyone to see how it goes together. Hopefully this list knocks out the main items. Feel free to post up any other questions if y'all are trying to install things. Or feel free to call me at 5014728960 at anytime(Even in the middle of the night, I won't cuss you too bad haha). I'll be able to walk you through anything hopefully until I get some better instructions going.

 

And yes the mustache bar is aluminum, which is why I opted not to coat it. I wasn't going to blast it either but the aluminum stock I got was a little dirty so I just wanted to clean it up, but the sand blasting left it with a texture finish, which I thought looked kind of good.

 

-Will

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Yes you'll need the gland nuts for the 8610 struts, that's what I have. Call koni-na, they have them in stock.

 

I have gland nuts for 8610 shocks already.  My point is I'm trying to make sure that what I'm ordering isn't what I already have...These were on a 280Z strut housing that I was using already.  Will may have explained it away above... I'll have to check and make sure these wlll thread in.  They are exceedingly tight (as in won't start to thread) but may well just be me not providing some lube.  Also, for those using 8610s you'll need more spacer... I measured 4 inches in my setup.

 

As to the issue with coating the mustach bar, It's cheap to do and you guys can do it in 15 minutes.  What we have from Will is a tremendous "value" and looking at all the parts and the hardware, along with his attention to detail on what we bought, I think you'll be able to coat your own bar in 15 minutes with a can of clear.  Give the guy a break.

Edited by Mikelly
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On #7 below, FORD sells offset bolts that may well work with these.  They add 3/4 degree camber adjustment.  I have some and may see if they work.  I have adjustable control arms and camber plates so I don't need them, but if they do work, I will provide the part number for you guys!

 

Ok guys, I've been meaning to get something together as far as how everything goes together but haven't had a chance. Was going to do it tonight but my jump drive with all my models on it is up at work. So here goes this:

 

  1. The mustache bar is not symmetrical side to side and the mustache bar mounts have an angle cut in them. The mustache bar angles DOWN towards the front of the car. This is because the explorer rear cover has slanted bolt holes. The diff mount holes are biased CLOSER to the drivers side of the car. There are 1/2 thick aluminum spacers between the mustache bar and the differential. There are 1/2 thick aluminum spacers, (1) 1/2 extra thick flat washer, and (1) 1/2 lock washer on the bottom of the mustache bar mount to allow the nut to get tight before bottoming out on the threads.
  2. The front diff mount should be pretty easy. Just fits up there and uses the supplied bolts. The part that captures the bottom part of the diff mount must be installed after the diff goes up obviously and bolts up to the same holes. The actual diff mount bolt goes up from the bottom then the nut goes on top. It's a little tricky but a wrench on top and a ratchet on bottom and its not too bad. Trboflyer has brought up that his diff mount hole isn't lining up properly and I'm not sure what the reason is yet. There is also a washer that is part of the front differential bushing that goes on the bottom. It is a large washer with a rubber part on it that completes the front diff mount bushing. Hopefully y'all are getting that with your differentials.
  3. The Dogbone piece just bolts up in place of the factory LCA dropdown brackets and uses the factory bolts. Nothing special there just needed it because the rear diff mount holes went straight through the factory drop downs, so it needed braced.
  4. There are (4) extra thick flat washers that go on top of the coil-over spring top and below the factory top mount in order to let is seat properly.
  5. There are (2) 1/2 thick aluminum spacers that are large. These go between the hub and the F150 outer cv joint. The F150 splines are longer than the hub so the spacer is needed to ensure the axle nut works properly.
  6. Some of the gland nuts will be a little hard to thread in. My threading process was having some issues so some of them are a little tight. Think of it as a self locking mechanism. But don't be alarmed if they don't go in by hand all the way. Just take care in ensuring it gets started properly then a spanner wrench might be needed after that.
  7. Ensure the bolts that hold the strut tube to the upright are TIGHT. As I'm sure you have seen you can control camber from here and the external tooth lock washers are there to provide extra grip to keep it from slipping. So make sure they get tight tight before driving. This same location might be a pretty tight fit getting the brackets over the upright. The powder coating added some thickness which hopefully won't cause any major problems, but it will probably be a tight fit.
  8. The hub into the upright will probably be a tight fit for the same reason as above.
  9. Warning, if you put the stub axles into the 8.8 differential. They can be a PITA to get out sometimes. Just a warning if you decide to test fit them. Be prepared to cuss yourself for trying it lol.

Once again sorry for not getting some more detailed stuff yet, its been busy for me with school finishing up and what not. I will grab my drive from work tomorrow and try to get some nice 3D models for everyone to see how it goes together. Hopefully this list knocks out the main items. Feel free to post up any other questions if y'all are trying to install things. Or feel free to call me at 5014728960 at anytime(Even in the middle of the night, I won't cuss you too bad haha). I'll be able to walk you through anything hopefully until I get some better instructions going.

 

And yes the mustache bar is aluminum, which is why I opted not to coat it. I wasn't going to blast it either but the aluminum stock I got was a little dirty so I just wanted to clean it up, but the sand blasting left it with a texture finish, which I thought looked kind of good.

 

-Will

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Yea, you're missing my point... I believe, based on this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ I believe I already have them, and they are not appearing to fit.  But I'll doublecheck it when I get home today.

 

You need gland nut part # 73.25.01.007.1, which I ordered straight from koni-na. I also have installed them in the strut tube which was supplied kit. I had to clean the threads from the powder coating build up to get mine to start

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Yea, you're missing my point... I believe, based on this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ I believe I already have them, and they are not appearing to fit.  But I'll doublecheck it when I get home today.

 

I haven't re-read that thread, but I believe it is wrong. I ordered the gland nuts for this swapping thinking they would be the same as the stock 280Z tubes(M51x1.5) but that is not the case. The stock 280Z tubes are M52x1.5 . This swap uses M51x1.5 and couldn't go any bigger because these tubes are 2.125OD vs the 280Z's 2.170 OD. You will need new gland nuts Mike, sorry bud.

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I'm pretty happy the diff is mounted and all the bolts now line up. I had the mustache bar mounts on wrong. Now I can order the driveshaft since I have a measurement from the trans to the diff.

This is a great kit and I really appreciate Will's time and effort he has put into this, and what a great community we have here to share our passion!

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I'm pretty happy the diff is mounted and all the bolts now line up. I had the mustache bar mounts on wrong. Now I can order the driveshaft since I have a measurement from the trans to the diff.

This is a great kit and I really appreciate Will's time and effort he has put into this, and what a great community we have here to share our passion!

 

Good deal, sorry I didn't get better instructions to y'all before you got the kits.

 

I have attached some PDF's that show the complicated parts and hope this gives those of you who haven't installed anything yet some direction. Let me know if anything else is still confusing.

 

Two finals Thursday plus a truckload of other things which need done. Busy Busy Busy.

 

Also because I feel like bragging a little bit, here is my latest "creation"...my 280Z lost its motor/trans to this car. Take special note of the orange sticker hehe. Finally got it running last week and still haven't had time to put the hood back on.

 

post-27433-0-84553000-1418795914_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-63633600-1418795918_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-10874900-1418795926_thumb.jpg

 

-Will

Front Differential Assembly Drawing.PDF

Mustache Bar Assembly Print.PDF

Upright Assembly Drawing.PDF

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I'm actually trying to go with an OEM off the shelf replacement spec size (Mustang 355MM) so I can get the parts locally if at the track and out of spares...  

 

Got the required Koni gland nuts in and the struts assembled... All is well on that front!

mike 

Edited by Mikelly
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