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The "Ultimate" IRS Swap for S30s


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So here is more info...Measuring Points CENTER of mount hole to CENTER of mount hole

 

Stock control arm - 14 5/8th

AZC Arm BEFORE moving 1/2 inch spacer outboard of hub - 14 3/16th

AZC Arm AFTER moving 1/2 inch spacer outboard of hub and extending Heim to 3/4inch thread showing - 14 1/2

 

I'd feel better with the spacer back behind the hub an the additional adjustment in the control arm since I do plan to squeeze a wider tire under the car as we shake her down.

 

Mike

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My Z is my midlife crisis car! It used to be my young and rebellious car. Someday it will be my old-timey car.

Lol you guys get butt hurt over the most trivial things. Armchair coaches have always been funny to watch and listen to.

Hopefully sooner rather than later. Planning on learning to run the waterjet this week so I can cut at night, since getting the current operator to cut stuff for me is like pulling hairs. Hopefully ca

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I got the shorter axles in and will be swapping them out, tomorrow if possible.  Will let you guys know how it works... keep in mind I am doing this for the wheel/tire/suspension adjustment that my particular setup requires...  You're mileage may vary!

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l only had a short amount of time this evening, but I managed to swap one of the axle centers in short order. If any of you guys decide to go this route, get an extra FOUR axle bands to replace all the inners. You can leave the outter bands on the boots and in place. No issues with pulling the axles out through the inner boot end.

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Anyone keep the R200 diff and use the rest of this stuff? I just snapped a "beefed up" output shaft and don't plan on working with the Nissan stuff anymore. I think the diff is plenty strong but those stubs axles are crap.

If it's stub axles anyone needs I have the 31spline cro-mo stuff for the R230 I'm selling. Brand new!

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I'm running 39-spline billets from Chequered Flag Racing. How many splines on a 9" axle? I just wish the diff end of the axle was bigger than 29-spline. That's the weak end for me, and where I have broken one axle in 145 passes. But I have about half your power. I really think you deserve to give your setup another try. I watched tour video, and your car is too sweet to chop up right off the bat. I really think you owe it to yourself to try some billet stubs and bias ply slicks at 12-15 psi to provide some strength where you are weakest and some drivetrain cushioning. Give such a setup a year and enjoy your build before you go in a totally new direction? Do some Texas Mile and roll racing stuff thats less "shocky" and just have fun? How about a way to control boost until you get outta the hole and get your first two shifts behind you-kinda like staged nitrous?

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lol... I told you it was a matter of time....... I have done a few highway pulls in the car 50 to 120+ seems to be all good.  But only time will tell.  I haven't done any clutch dumps yet as I am still in the break in period on the clutch.  I put 170 miles on the car last week.

 

 

 

The real test is a 3-4k launch on a well prepped track/tires. I put 2k hard street miles on mine with out any trouble. 4th pass down a drag strip and boom goes the dynamite.

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What about the availability of parts/gear ratios on the R200?  That's what drove me to the 8.8 conversion. I wanted to make sure if I want to swap to a shorter or taller gearset or I want a more capable LSD unit, they were available.  The biggest frustration all the R200 crowd have is that "parts" issue.  Are they out there?  Sure.  WHERE?  I can go down the street and get crush sleeves and gears for the 8.8 the local speed shop, or FOMOCO or order online from Jegs/Summit/nameyourpartshaus!

 

The axles seem beefy, but as you said, you never know until you really put them to the test.  Time will tell, but the geometry of this setup makes me happier than with the R200/Q45.  Looking at the pics from my old setup compared to this new setup you don't see as extreme an angle for the axles to rotate through.  Sure CVs are supposed to compensate for bind, but how much before you start to stress the pockets of the joint?  Is that shock being transferred straight to the outer stub and an off angle?  Dunno... Just things I think about when looking at both setups!

 

Mike

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At work so I'll make it short.

 

If the F150 outer CV axles end up being a problem. You can get 930 Micro Stubs that you can bolt a porsche 930 CV joint to which fit the Intrepid hubs. And I'm sure those come in chromoly. I just didn't go that route cause the stubs are roughly $160 each plus 2 more 930 CV joints need bought. So it ends up being a couple hundred bucks higher than using the F150 stuff. But there are stronger/high quality parts than the F150 CV joints if those become an issue, but I don't forsee that happening. Here is the first link I found of the microstub. Sure you can get even better than these if you wanted(300M stuff).

 

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac525112-33e.html

 

-Will

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At work so I'll make it short.

 

If the F150 outer CV axles end up being a problem. You can get 930 Micro Stubs that you can bolt a porsche 930 CV joint to which fit the Intrepid hubs. And I'm sure those come in chromoly. I just didn't go that route cause the stubs are roughly $160 each plus 2 more 930 CV joints need bought. So it ends up being a couple hundred bucks higher than using the F150 stuff. But there are stronger/high quality parts than the F150 CV joints if those become an issue, but I don't forsee that happening. Here is the first link I found of the microstub. Sure you can get even better than these if you wanted(300M stuff).

 

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac525112-33e.html

 

-Will

At work so I'll make it short.

 

If the F150 outer CV axles end up being a problem. You can get 930 Micro Stubs that you can bolt a porsche 930 CV joint to which fit the Intrepid hubs. And I'm sure those come in chromoly. I just didn't go that route cause the stubs are roughly $160 each plus 2 more 930 CV joints need bought. So it ends up being a couple hundred bucks higher than using the F150 stuff. But there are stronger/high quality parts than the F150 CV joints if those become an issue, but I don't forsee that happening. Here is the first link I found of the microstub. Sure you can get even better than these if you wanted(300M stuff).

 

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac525112-33e.html

 

-Will

At work so I'll make it short.

 

If the F150 outer CV axles end up being a problem. You can get 930 Micro Stubs that you can bolt a porsche 930 CV joint to which fit the Intrepid hubs. And I'm sure those come in chromoly. I just didn't go that route cause the stubs are roughly $160 each plus 2 more 930 CV joints need bought. So it ends up being a couple hundred bucks higher than using the F150 stuff. But there are stronger/high quality parts than the F150 CV joints if those become an issue, but I don't forsee that happening. Here is the first link I found of the microstub. Sure you can get even better than these if you wanted(300M stuff).

 

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac525112-33e.html

 

-Will

Will,

 

When you get a chance can you call or PM me? I'd like to see what your lead time is on parts and have a few quick questions for you. Thanks!

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One of the issues with the stock Datsun stuff is the friction weld IMO. They also neck down and have some other weaknesses, they always made me nervous which is why I bought better stuff when I thought I was going to use it. Gear selection is primarily what is driving me to look at the 8.8 more closely and thus sell my stub axles - I'd use them if I could though! Make me an offer :-)

 

Will, any luck with the caliper and rotor?

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One of the issues with the stock Datsun stuff is the friction weld IMO. They also neck down and have some other weaknesses, they always made me nervous which is why I bought better stuff when I thought I was going to use it. Gear selection is primarily what is driving me to look at the 8.8 more closely and thus sell my stub axles - I'd use them if I could though! Make me an offer :-)

 

Will, any luck with the caliper and rotor?

Unless you have both inner and outer 6 bolt chromoly stub axles and are prepared to take a massive loss than you don't want me to make an offer ;) I too am going with the 8.8. The amount of power I'm attempting to put down and the manner in which im trying to do it exceeds what any aftermarket Nissan part was designed to do. Edited by thezguy
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