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Yoak - 240z


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It really comes down to your air compressor capacity and blaster capacity with your air compressor being the biggest factor. My compressor is way undersized and was my greatest limiting factor as I could only run for 15 minutes or so a a decent pressure that was effective for the undercarriage. Body paint and bondo are much easier and faster to remove then the undercarriage paint/rubberized material under the car and do not require the same high pressure.  I still do plan on stripping the body in some form in the future but it needs to be at a point that I can at least roll it out of the garage. I will probably do this with paint stripper or soda blasting for the majority of the body, and sand blasting areas as needed. I will never do something like this in a garage again unless it is one dedicated to the purpose. I have been cleaning for weeks and I am still finding sand :)

 

EDIT: Updated post to be less vague about body paint removal.

Edited by Yoak
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The only rust I had show up again was near the tail gate area...and that was my fault. I do run a dehumidifier that was running during the summer keeping things around 50%. I would strip sections of pain and then paint a day or so later at the most with a bit of a buffer zone  to the next area I was going to strip.

 

Funny story about the sand...we were having a major thunder storm role through the area and I had another car pulled partially in the garage to do a timing belt. I look out over the garage door and there is a lightning strike a 100 or so yards out. As if instinctively a look up at the lights and the sand jumps and falls off the fixture like something you have seen in a WW2 movie.

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How quickly does that blaster work? Would you recommend using it to blast an entire shell?

 

What I've read and experienced, is that sand blasting in particular "work hardens" metal. Won't be an issue on a suspension piece, but it's not recommended for body panels. Other media like soda or pecan shells may be a different story.

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What I've read and experienced, is that sand blasting in particular "work hardens" metal. Won't be an issue on a suspension piece, but it's not recommended for body panels. Other media like soda or pecan shells may be a different story.

 

SaturnV has a very valid points

 

Soda blasting is a great option if you have access to one. It is especially good if you are working with soft metals, my buddy has one and loves it and had to use a soda blaster on his car as it had an aluminum body. Where Sand blasting is generally better where you have more rust and other hard to remove compounds. In my case I knew I was going to be working under the car and working with rusty materials so the sand blaster won (and I did look at both). On that note you can buy soda blaster upgrade kits for most blasters, and I came close to getting a combo kit but just could not afford it at the time.  I did use the blaster to remove some terrible bondo work near the rear tire area and it did a great job and was very quick.  This is where I was a bit vague in a previous post about the paint on the shell of the car in a previous post (which has been edited) as I was actually leaning towards using a paint stripper per my limited space and sand blasting as needed with the option of soda blasting funds permitting. Anyway, sand blasting the media and the pressure you use will make a huge difference on how the panels will be affected, the higher the pressure  the more likely you are to warp something. That being said, If I was JUST doing the body, and had to buy a piece of equipment I would probably lean towards Soda Blasting, or a combo kit as it is the best tool for the job.

 

Check out: http://www.eastwood.com/abrasive-blast-media-vs-soda-blast-media-removing-rust-and-paint-with-media

Edited by Yoak
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Thanks for the responses guys. I wasn't planning on using sand, since everything I've read suggests that sand is too harsh for sheet metal. I'll probably use walnut shells or plastic. I just want to get the paint off. I've heard some bad things about residue from soda blasting ruining paint jobs, so I don't really want to go that route.

Edited by rturbo 930
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Yup, I do some photography on the side. :) 

 

I actually don't run any filters or do anything other than basic edits (exposure, shadows, highlights for example). The look you are seeing largely comes from the camera (typically a full frame) and lens combo that I am using. I do try and ensure that the pictures are at least interesting to look at as some of this stuff is not the most exciting stuff. Although, I am much picker on what I do post then I would care to admit. :)

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MG 3529

MG 3533

MG 3563

MG 3581

MG 3743

MG 3747

MG 3748

 

Rear 240Z TTT Suspension components.

 

Notes:

  • I had to modify the 300ZX dust guards to fit correctly, and that had to be swapped over to the opposite side. This setup will utilize the original 300ZX hand brake cable.
  • The differential mount required me to trim off some of the original metal on the frame of the car to fit correctly. 
  • The Greddy differential cover is for a skyline/300zx, and will require a breather (38322-p6400).  it fits nicely but it is very close fit

If anyone is interested I did take notes of torque/part numbers etc I have used on this setup..the only major difference is I re-threaded most of my components over to M10 1.5

 

Note I had to re-shoot the TTT components so there are some pieces showing up at this state that otherwise would not be at this stage of the game...but you get the idea :)

 

 

Mote Pictures: http://www.doitinadatsun.com/yoak/2015/01/240z-ttt-rear-suspension-components/

Pictures Taken: November 2014 & January 2014

Edited by Yoak
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