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Face plated transmission


MONGO510

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The wham! is only the engagement of the lugs, as the clutch disc instantly syncs to it's speed in the next gear. You don't have to drop the clutch at every gear change, so extra drivetrain breakage is not a given.

 

The lash is just the open space between the drive lugs. The space is quite a bit wider than the lugs themselves, making a wide "window" for the lugs to drop into. If the fit was tight, everything would need to be aligned perfectly before the lugs could engage. With the wide window and a self holding angle on the face of the lugs, they draw together instantly when contact is made. Just accidentally bumping your shifter with the engine idling is enough to put the car into gear. Since there is no such thing as easy engagement without rev-matching, getting the engagement of the lugs completed as quickly as possible means less wear/tear on the edges of the lugs.

 

Below is a pic of a faceplate slider and a dog ring that welds to the gear itself to replace the stock synchro style lugs. Both sides of the slider pictured has lugs, it justs slides back and forth on the mainshaft to engage whichever gear is selected...

 

faceplateparts750w.JPG

 

Below is a pic of stock engagement teeth (lower left), a "pro-shift" style ring (lower right), and a faceplate dog ring (top center)...

 

bellhousingproject23.jpg

 

Here's the inside of my transmission... 

 

faceplatedtoploader750w.jpg

 

notice that i kept the stock synchro on 1st gear.

Edited by weedburner
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From your other thread, I think I understood you to say that your faceplated tranny was really just good for drag racing and that the car pops out of gear when you lift off the throttle..is that right? What are the advantages of the pro-shift modification? I have a buddy who just got his street car faceplated by Liberty-I'm looking forward to driving that car so I can see what this mod is all about .

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My transmission has roadrace style faceplates/dog rings, which stay in gear. The Drag-only sets have little or no self holding taper, and fall out of gear easily.

 

I would not recommend pro-shift unless faceplating is not available. The edges can burr up and when they do, the slider will not slide over them freely. The only fix is to take the trans apart and dress them up. I used to run a pro-shifted box on the street/strip, it was out about every 4-6 weeks for dressing up the lugs.

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Good to hear.

 

My t56 is hard to shift at high RPM and I think this may be the solution.

 

I would make sure your hydraulics are new and functioning properly first.  I shifted mine at 7200 rpm with zero issues. It might just need the synchros rebuilt! Brass shifter cup bushing and a short stick shifter will do wonders also (if still using stock garbage shifter)

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