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HybridZ

A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)


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On 1/7/2021 at 5:38 AM, rossman said:

Nice!  I like the red lighting.  Did it come standard like that?  I have the chrome version but it looks out of place in the interior so I never installed it.

 

It's probably just poor color accuracy in the picture. I'd describe it more like a warm white, just like home incandescents which usually look yellowish or a very very light orange . I'm pretty sure the included LEDs are warm white instead of "sunlight" or a more pure white like what I installed in the dash. I could potentially replace them pretty easily, but I kind of like the contrast. 

 

I keep forgetting to take a pic while it's light out now that it's back together, but here's another from while I was testing. For now, the controls are mounted on the metal plate I had cut, but I really do want to mount them on a more accurate 3D printed plate I can epoxy or plastic weld to the HVAC panel. Cousin's printer went down after finishing my vent and the school's are still at warehouse since we don't have students back at the high school yet. 

20210106_185056.jpg.d1c8422f22e7f9c5eb2c5aac9357aebb.jpg

 

Also, my turn signal switch fell apart after trying to repair it one more time. My $5 fix has been documented on here before, but I don't like the way it returns (or rather it doesn't), but at least the signals are reliable now until I do a more OE style fix that doesn't stick quite like this or just pony up the money for a really well refurbished unit. 

20210109_211002.jpg.ca7a15512af24e9239981bf6d427eb95.jpg

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Small parts updates:

 

Exhaust: Have been upset at how loud the MSA muffler is considering how... not... aggressive my engine is. I ordered a Dynomax Super Turbo since I've heard they're decent quality and not too loud. Here's hoping it's a bit less obnoxious because right now even with the resonator it's still annoyingly loud (for my taste) until you're cruising steady at 3k rpm. 

 

Bumpers: I finally got an update that my bumpers are are arriving at the reseller and will ship out as soon as they inspect them. They've been stuck at port for a while now. Shipping industry in general has been very slow, so I'm not blaming it at all on Datsun Garage who have done an excellent job maintaining communication.

 

AC Hoses: Decided to ahead and order the Vintage air hoses and drier. Shipped yesterday. Opted for the extended length. Most of the brackets/tie downs from the factory AC were all on the rubber parts, so I'm hoping it's actually reasonably tidy if I route them the same way. The extended length will allow me to relocate the drier up front or wherever it looks tidiest, since my fuse block that replaced the fusible links is mounted where the original drier was.

 

IAC: Ordered the pigtail I need to wire the Jeep IAC. I've seen some people use a Bosch unit that's round, but I think my block will work for now and I'll still be able to mount it where the original ignition coil was. 

 

Thermostat: I've been meaning to do this for ages, but just never got around to it. When I was cleaning up the gaskets and replacing the water pump a few years ago I replaced the thermostat, but the parts store gave me a 160 deg unit. Finally purchased a proper 180 deg unit which will let the engine run better and actually give me heat on cool days. 

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3 minutes ago, jpndave said:

@ZetsazSo on my phone will be quick. Don't get a turbo style muffler. Send that one back or cancel if you can. Get a Borla/Dynomax type. The turbo style is what is giving your resonance/droning. 

 

Dynamax straight through? I have a Dynomax Ultraflo I've tried and the sound was worse. This is a Dynomax brand I ordered as well. I think there are some nomenclature weirdnesses when talking mufflers. The one I ordered isn't a big straight through or cherry bomb looking one, it looks almost like an oem and has the redirected airflow with holes in the channels as well as matting on the inside. The straight through Dynomax Ultraflo doesn't sound bad outside, but it's just so loud when casually driving around.

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Yes you want straight through but a good muffler. IMO the Borla is one of the best sounding but they are spendy. I like a more European sound if that makes sense. The drone I mentioned when we drove your car is the chambered muffler. That resonance drives me crazy and literally gives me a headache.

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I have this on my truck and Jeep. 

https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389207-mufflers-aero-turbinexl.html

I love how it works on the Truck in 4". JK is 3.5" and just a little loud (Colton likes the noise - kids 🙄) I'm going to add a small resonator when it goes back together.

 

On my Z I'll do a SS Borla or equivalent dual in dual out (X in the middle of the muffler) if I can make it fit. Look for something with a core like a Borla. 

 

So on this page any except the chambered one (5th one down) 

https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/

 A lot of muscle car guys like the deep rumbly sound of a flowmaster but that resonance is horrible. My JK has plenty rumble and none of the resonance. 

Edited by jpndave
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1 minute ago, jpndave said:

I have this on my truck and Jeep. 

https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389207-mufflers-aero-turbinexl.html

I love how it works on the Truck in 4". JK is 3.5" and just a little loud (Colton likes the noise - kids 🙄) On my Z I'll do a SS magnaflo dual in dual out (X in the middle of the muffler) if I can make it fit. Look for something with a core like a Borla. 

 

Interesting... I'll have to look more into it. My understanding from other members is the "super turbo" is quieter than the straight through and isn't a chambered design, but sound cancellation and harmonic resonance is a such a fickle science. Will look more into it later in the day, currently on lunch.

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2 hours ago, jpndave said:

I don't think the Aero turbine will fit. They are long. 

 

This exactly is part of the struggle with quieting our exhausts compared to bigger American cars. Length of the muffler makes a big impact. Unless I start cutting at the piping, longest I can fit is about a 14" housing

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Maybe one of these then? 

https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers?muffler_body_length=121

 

The angle core deadens sounds a bit

http://tuning.ua/en/sound

 

I'm looking at doing something like this but it will be where the spare tire was exiting below the plate. 

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs-universal-muffler-400286

Edited by jpndave
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Overall noise level "might" be higher than a more restricted or a chambered muffler but I much prefer the sound. I find it isn't opjectionable low RPM but a bit of bark when you step into the throttle and no drone/resonance. On the big LS in my JK where it's just a little loud a resonator should take care of it. Luckily there is more room to work with under there. With a turbo on the Duramax one muffler is enough. 

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1 hour ago, jpndave said:

Maybe one of these then? 

https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers?muffler_body_length=121

 

The angle core deadens sounds a bit

http://tuning.ua/en/sound

 

I'm looking at doing something like this but it will be where the spare tire was exiting below the plate. 

https://www.borla.com/products/proxs-universal-muffler-400286

 

That Dynomax Ultraflo you first linked is exactly what I have now. I'm gonna try it with the muffler tip that came with the MSA unit (45 deg cut aims it slightly down once it's out... if I could just get it out of the MSA muffler right now. It's a bit stuck haha). If that's not enough I'll stick with the Dynomax Super Turbo which is supposed to be much quieter. Fortunately they're quite cheap. Both new are less than a Borla XS and I can still return since Dynomax has a pretty straight forward 90 day return policy. 

 

For now, thermostat is going in tonight and I'll finally be able to check some things at proper operating temp. IAC pigtail should arrive by tomorrow afternoon and I'll be able to fool around with that.

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Spent maybe a solid 3 hours after work today tinkering around with things. Mounted the IAC Block where the ignition coil normally went. I'm still not sold on the square block, but it's an alright placement for now. Drilled and tapped the holes it already had on the back to be M6x1.0 like most of the bolts holding the car together and bolted it on from the opposite side in the wheel well. Only attached with two bolts for now, that way I'm only drilling one hole right between the original two for the ignition coil bracket. Didn't want to add more holes than necessary to the engine bay if I change my mind on how I'm doing things later.

Notice the hose routing is... not ideal in terms of a tidy engine bay I want but it'll do for now. 

 

Also finally used the 3D printed TPS bracket to replace the random piece of sheet metal the last owner had it bolted in with.

20210114_185813.jpg

 

Spent most of the time tinkering with my idle settings. My idle was nice and stable when warm, but I hadn't bothered diving deeper into it. Realized that I didn't have VSS turned on for engine state, so Megasquirt was always assuming I was at cruise and not switching between engine states. Now the IAC is functioning properly. Messed with IAC and Idle Advance to get target RPM and I think I have it in a pretty good spot. Responds within a second when I put the high beams on and crank the fan all the way. Settles into the target rpm within 2-3 seconds. Also finally turned on Idle VE since I hadn't bothered doing that at all. Now my AFR isn't floating around at the lightest change when it's just idling and I leaned it out just slightly.


The engine bay is becoming less tidy as I make it closer to the cruiser/touring car I want but that's alright. Tidiness balanced with servicablility and driveability is what I'm aiming for. I'm still having an issue with a sticky throttle at small blade angles. Tends to stick slightly instead of closing all the way. I think if I swap to a 240sx throttle with a spacer, switching to a throttle cable will take care of the problem, and the spacer I would probably have to use could be tapped to be the hose entry point to make my routing on the IAC hose much shorter. If I decide I want turbo power it'll also keep things more serviceable.

Edited by Zetsaz
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I gotta say.... Tinkering with the IAC and idle advance makes this thing feel almost new. 

 

The closed loop idle control made cold start when I checked it during lunch feel satisfying instead of like a chore. IAC opens on start up and I have it tuned close enough right now. No more blipping the throttle to get it to start. Idles a bit high on warm up and comes down smoothly as the coolant temp goes down instead of bogging down and stalling like it did before. VERY satisfying 

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The diffuser muffler did the trick for me. $30 or so on amazon, prime shipped. Made my car from unbearable, requires ear plugs, down to not that bad, almost wish it was slightly louder. Drone was intercepted with an ultra quiet and a cat, but honestly i think i could have done without the ultra quiet, just having the diffuser creates enough backflow to really quiet things down.

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37 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

The diffuser muffler did the trick for me. $30 or so on amazon, prime shipped. Made my car from unbearable, requires ear plugs, down to not that bad, almost wish it was slightly louder. Drone was intercepted with an ultra quiet and a cat, but honestly i think i could have done without the ultra quiet, just having the diffuser creates enough backflow to really quiet things down.

 

Diffuser muffler? Do you have a link? 

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I think he's talking about Supertrapp: https://supertrapp.com/shop-products/universal/auto-s-c-elite

 

If you're not familiar with them, they've been around forever....since the 1970s at least.  There are a series of baffles at the end of the exhaust pipe.  To increase flow/noise you add more baffles, to quiet things down you go with fewer.  I know these devices work, but I don't really understand how.  It seems like the design would KILL exhaust flow, but somehow it doesn't.  They have been used on a lot of racing cars and bikes over the years to take the edge off of a really loud exhaust.

Edited by Ironhead
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