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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)


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5 hours ago, rossman said:

Great progress and the car is looking really good!  I may be one of the few people that think that the front crossmember/diff mount actually doubles as a stiffener for suspension loads.  I also have the RT style mount but also still have the crossmember there as a stiffener.  Anyway, it's just my $0.02...


it does add stiffness. Whether it is necessary is the big grey area.
 

The RT mount is really beefy up top (with the vertical flange, but the mounting point is cantilevered and can flex. I had to hit mine with a 2lb sledge a few times to move the tabs in on my car. 
 

given the relatively light weight of the crossmember, I plan to use it again with my mount. If I had the time, it would certainly be lighter in tube steel. It’s experiencing mostly tension and compression. Not much bending since the ends are bolted down. A thin-wall tube could do the trick. 

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Road trip down the entire western US  a success! 

 

Review so far: most of the Pacific coast highway along Oregon isn't worth cruise. And I literally mean all but like 15 minutes of it unless you're heading to a specific camping spot. 

 

Going to hit Big Sur and Hearst Castle if it's open on the way back but not much else I want to see this time around. Pro tip - when you don't slam your car you can go more fun places

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On 4/5/2021 at 8:14 PM, calZ said:

Big Sur is a great choice for a stop. I haven't been there in a few years, but Julia Pfeiffer State Park is right on PCH and has some nice little hikes if you're into that.

 

You might also be able to catch some elephant seal stragglers on the beaches near Hearst Castle.


I'll keep that in mind!

Updates:

 

CV Bolts: Now at my brother's place in North Hollywood and got to check on some stuff. some of the bolts from the CVs to the adapters came loose. Strangely, I don't think it's just that they came loose, I think they were never totally flush to begin with. The plate on the end of them made it near impossible to properly tighten and I think as they've settled in, the 1/8" or so they might have been off on one end showed up. Was getting some oscillating noise from the back, but only under load. Everything is tightened up now, but I'm going to reinstall the bolts one at a time with loctite now that they're settled and flush when I'm back home.

Speedo issues: Speedometer cable stopped working somewhere before San Francisco and I thought maybe it was my gauge. My volt/fuel was already not working, so I figured it was the gauge since I had a new cable. Nope..... turns out the cable tore a few inches up from the speedo cog at the transmission. Have done the math on gearing enough times that I mostly know how fast I'm going, and in 5th I know exactly how fast I'm going just off the tach. Not sure if I wanna just buy a new cable or make it an excuse to replace the rest of my gauges already. Pricey, but now that I have my daily car completely paid and made some money from a small investment deal with my brother it might be worth it.

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7 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Everything is tightened up now, but I'm going to reinstall the bolts one at a time with loctite now that they're settled and flush when I'm back home.

Yes, exactly.  Torque is primarily what prevents fasteners from backing out.  Loctite is a decent secondary back out prevention.

 

7 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Not sure if I wanna just buy a new cable or make it an excuse to replace the rest of my gauges already.

Love my Speedhut GPS speedo gauge.  Definitely pricey though.

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On 4/7/2021 at 5:59 PM, rossman said:

Love my Speedhut GPS speedo gauge.  Definitely pricey though.


Tough choice but I feel like I should just commit to the gauges. If I sell my Infiniti I'd have the money for an engine swap and gauges or a solid L series build already, and in a swap especially, I'd need the new gauges anyway unless I start messing with sensor thread adapters or resistors. 

Second casualty from the drive: the bumper brackets from Skillard are fairly well designed, but I think the extra weight of the metal bumper instead of fiberglass is creating a bit of a spring effect and the bumper seems to be moving enough on really harsh bumps to rub on the headlight buckets. I was careful to provide clearance when I installed it so it wasn't too close, but it looks like it's moving enough to rub and has rubbed through the paint on some small spots :( Going to put some masking tape on it for the drive back, but I think it's time to experiment with more clearance or some clever custom rubber bump stops or rubber strips I can attach.

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