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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)


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Posted (edited)

A few shots here. First shows where we put the hangers. I'm glad we could keep them as simple as we did.

They're mountin to the stock muffler area mounts on the car. Had to cut and weld some random hangers I ordered from amazon. Those were only mild steel though, so I cleaned them up and painted them with a few coats of rustoleum just to make sure nothing was rusting under the car. 

Third pic shows it mounted. It looks like it's pointing slightly to the passenger side, but that's the distortion from my phone's wide angle. It's about as centered as you can make it considering how we built the exhaust, and it comes out pretty parallel with the ground!

 

Currently debating ponying up the money for a GT3076 and just finishing up the car PROPERLY before I got to mexico or just running the new ebay turbo I was given with the engine block. Going to Utah for spring break to meet my new nephew so I fortunately have a week to think it over.

 

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Edited by Zetsaz
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2 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

 

Have you tried the cool turbo sizing calculator on Garrett's website? For my application, it looks like the G25 and G30 frame sizes were more efficient. Not cheap at $2k a pop, but efficiency goes a long way!

From my calcs, the g30-660 is a good choice for my engine (3.0L with mild head porting and custom cam). The GT3576 that I have now is too big.  It spools fairly quick with the .62 A/R turbine but sacrifices top end power due to turbine restriction.

 

 

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@rossman I hear ya. Il likely get the C25-550 for the street Z once she is ready. Next in-line after the race car. 
 

I learned a lot from my little T3 super-60 compressor trim. I’m going to run an air-water IC to cut-down on turbo lag, and employ some light water injection. Excited to geek out on that in time. 

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On 4/4/2022 at 4:28 PM, rossman said:

From my calcs, the g30-660 is a good choice for my engine (3.0L with mild head porting and custom cam). The GT3576 that I have now is too big.  It spools fairly quick with the .62 A/R turbine but sacrifices top end power due to turbine restriction.

 

 


The new G series lineup seems so tempting but too rich for my blood... Nearly 1k over the popular 3076 L series guys seem to like! If I get a new Garrett I think I'm leaning towards the GT3076R with a .63 a/r 

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Recent orders that are hurting my wallet but should get this thing going. 

 

-Garrett GT3076R that I mentioned, with a 5 bolt ford style exhaust housing to bolt in that ultimate internal wastegate setup. Should keep things simple.

-Tial 10psi actuator to keep things more reliable than whatever questionable chinese actuator was on there before. 

 

-650cc injectors and adapters for the 14mm O rings. Should be more than I'll ever use, but they were the same price as the 550s that were recommended to me to keep up with my turbo and psi goals. Will give me plenty of overhead, and better tuning since they're new and will actually come with a data sheet. 

-The new thermostat housing and waterneck from protunerz that I preordered ages ago should be here in time to install the water lines for the turbo. Was shocked at what they're asking for them now. I'm expecting them to be really great pieces, but I'm glad I preordered. Will give me more ports in more common modern threads while also allowing me to move away from the pitted oem pieces I have that developed a hairline crack on one of the sensors. They've been impossible to seal as a result and always blow some coolant steam onto the bottom of my hood and onto my header.

 

Electric fans are still up for debate. I know that I can route the intercooler piping in front of the oil pan right now (have test fit my piping) and my clutch fan is working beautifully. Might avoid the extra expense and work for now just to get myself going. Don't want to have too much all at once on the to do list. If I purchase electric fans and the wiring it might wait until next month when I'm finally reimbursed for a conference I was at in February.

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On 4/9/2022 at 2:47 PM, Zetsaz said:

-Garrett GT3076R that I mentioned, with a 5 bolt ford style exhaust housing to bolt in that ultimate internal wastegate setup. Should keep things simple.

That should spool up quick.  I'm sure you will be happy with it.

 

On 4/9/2022 at 2:47 PM, Zetsaz said:

-The new thermostat housing and waterneck from protunerz that I preordered ages ago should be here in time to install the water lines for the turbo. Was shocked at what they're asking for them now.

They're currently $280.  I don't find that price shocking at all. If I was to model that and get it fabricated by our in-house shop, it'd be at least 3x that price. You must have got a smokin' deal!

On 4/9/2022 at 2:47 PM, Zetsaz said:

Electric fans are still up for debate.

I'm still running a clutch fan and shroud. It pulls a LOT of air. Just be sure to seal up leak paths around the fan, shroud, and radiator.

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13 hours ago, rossman said:

That should spool up quick.  I'm sure you will be happy with it.

 

They're currently $280.  I don't find that price shocking at all. If I was to model that and get it fabricated by our in-house shop, it'd be at least 3x that price. You must have got a smokin' deal!

I'm still running a clutch fan and shroud. It pulls a LOT of air. Just be sure to seal up leak paths around the fan, shroud, and radiator.

 

Since I'm running the very conservative stock compression with dished pistons I figured the "newer" ball bearing turbos would get me better response on the low end, even though the GT series is starting to get a bit dated. The GTX for this size is apparently only a marginal improvement, and the G series is just too expensive for me right now. 

I got the whole assembly (housing, outlet, and water neck) for $194+shipping. Looking at other options which are just stock replacements that does seem like a good deal now that you mention it. 

Andrew (Milkfab) is also running a clutch fan and has now problems, but he has 3" intercooler piping which caused some fitment issues going under the engine. Mine is all 2.5" which fits great so far as long as I'm able to aim the compressor outlet just right to clear the steering column without having the couple hit anything. 

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My very much not Chinese made spooly boy has arrived.

 

Thermostat housing and injectors should be shipping out sometime this week according to protunerz

 

SO close to a new "first" startup. Will just need to sort water lines and the intercooler piping once it's bolted up, but it's super close.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Spacer, new fuel rail and injectors and thermostat housing. Started getting the exhaust manifold fitted up and figuring out the correct angle on the compressor housing to clear everything.

Super happy with the quality on the thermostat housing, but notice they accidentally sent me another outlet instead of the water neck haha. ProTunerz has excellent service though and already said they ship the neck on monday along with a return label to send back the extra outlet. 

 

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Edited by Zetsaz
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Thermostat housing is on and turbo is split apart for a sec while i wait on a couple of AN adapter fittings for the coolant lines which should arrive tomorrow.

 

Occupied myself installing new door dome light switches and touching up the paint around the old busted ones. 

 

Finally managed to pull the old turbo studs put for the new longer ones to use with the spacer. Even welding nuts on the end didn't work. The stud extractor tool was worth every penny

 

Had to relocate the PCV to clear my wastegate actuator and ground down the mount for the original one as well. While i was at it I baked the intake and exhaust manifolds in VHT flameproof paint. It's not quite ceramic coating, and I've heard of some people having issues with it flaking off, but realistically I'll eventually replace the intake at the very least with a nicer and better flowing Protunerz manifold. In the meantime, I'm satisfied with how i plugged some of the open holes and cleaned things up. Will probably run wiring under the fuel rail to keep things tidy.

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41 minutes ago, jpndave said:

Looking good Omar! The new parts are pretty...

 

If you have a need, I have the roll flare tool to do hard AN lines. It works quite well with the sleeve and nut to go hard lines.


I may take you up on that. Underneath the car, the fuel lines are one of my biggest frustrations. They work fine, but I just flared them for EFI rubber hose for now. Trying to get my cousin to help me 3D print some mounts to run along the frame rail, right now they're just sort of hanging with only a couple of clamps in the back and front and zip tied to the brake lines which are more properly mounted. Stock rubber mounts don't work since I upgraded to 3/8" stainless line. 

it's not too bad since I only have very short sections of rubber, especially at the front. The rail is deadheaded and the FPR is running "returnless" style. I've heard that's not ideal with boost, but I figure if the "Medusa" Z is running that way with much more power than I'll ever have and Z Car Garage didn't bother to change it when they did a lot of work for him, then I'm probably fine. 

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11 hours ago, Zetsaz said:


I may take you up on that. Underneath the car, the fuel lines are one of my biggest frustrations. They work fine, but I just flared them for EFI rubber hose for now. Trying to get my cousin to help me 3D print some mounts to run along the frame rail, right now they're just sort of hanging with only a couple of clamps in the back and front and zip tied to the brake lines which are more properly mounted. Stock rubber mounts don't work since I upgraded to 3/8" stainless line. 

it's not too bad since I only have very short sections of rubber, especially at the front. The rail is deadheaded and the FPR is running "returnless" style. I've heard that's not ideal with boost, but I figure if the "Medusa" Z is running that way with much more power than I'll ever have and Z Car Garage didn't bother to change it when they did a lot of work for him, then I'm probably fine. 

Some printed brackets would be sweet. I have that roll flare tool as well as a hydraulic bender and another that does most of the other ends. 

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Posted (edited)

Well... the engine itself is dangerously close to firing. Just waiting on a few fittings and some BSPT plugs then I'd be running again.

 

Transmission problem doesn't seem like what I thought. Seems like the stick is in 5th, but the trans is in neutral. Started the laborious process of pulling the transmission yet again. Will be taking it back to the shop that rebuilt it to see what the deal is. Seems like the selector forks aren't lining up or something because the stick goes to "neutral" but towards the right with some force and in "fifth" it has a lot of play up and down but neither is actually selecting a gear. 

Silver lining - I accidentally used the thinner Datsun clutch fork instead of the mutch thicker 240sx one, so I guess I at least get the chance to swap them out now, and triple check that I actually put the right release bearing in.

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Edited by Zetsaz
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Transmission problems SOLVED.

 

A check ball was missing during assembly and the selector over travelled and got stuck out of place but on reinspection they also noticed one bit near a synchro was assembled backwards? can't remember which piece specifically but apparently one piece is nearly identical front to back and wasn't set right which made it tough to go into gear to begin with. The shop redid the work for free and got it back to me same day!

 

Will try to get it back in tonight and assemble the last of the coolant fittings which are arriving tomorrow.

 

Unless I'm missing something i might be able to try a first start tomorrow night. If I'm missing anything hopefully it's by the end of the week

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Posted (edited)

Transmission in. Coolant fittings for the turbo done. The silver lining to pulling the transmission is I accidentally used the thinner Datsun clutch fork when I first installed it instead of the noticeably thicker "71C" fork. Comparison in the second pic.

 

Checklist for first start is just

-Remount coil packs

-Refill trans fluid (Redline MT90 arriving today)

-Install shifter

-Refill coolant

-Install Vacuum hose for wastegate and BOV

-Burn new tune onto ECU (Already updated settings for new injectors, removed IAC, and new AFR Target Map)

 

Technically optional for just a first start.

-Finish intercooler hot side piping (Running into some issues with fitting things the way I had planned)

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Edited by Zetsaz
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Well she's moving! 

 

Charge piping isn't done and my coils might be wired funny because it only runs on wasted COP, no sequential spark right now. That or my tooth #1 angle is off or my trigger wheel is upside down, or or or.... But she moves!

 

Friend is helping me with the hot side charge piping tomorrow that's holding me back. Hopefully I can figure out some settings and get it running smoother asap

 

 

 

 

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