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New Techno Toy Tuning Big Rear Brake Kit!

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I have a 72 240Z Shell, literally a blank slate. I have stock struts for the car but I have really been against putting them back on the car. When done, I plan on this car being an absolute street machine/vette killer. With that in mind, I have been researching what will be the best way to spend my money ensuring that I can put all of my power down to the street and how I stop it all too. I just found T3 through this thread, and I was thinking about ordering the AZC track pack kit, but I think I have changed my mind! T3 products look awesome, great branding, and from what I have read looks like they perform just as well. I am gonna call them soon. If anyone is using their coil over kits I would be very interested to hear about your experience with them!

 

Thanks

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So mine have arrived (last fall) along with the fronts and ....well basically the rest of the TTT suspension suite. Just finding time to install it all.  Stance coilovers are being welded in 2 weekends, and then it should all start coming together.  cannot wait to get on the binders .  

 

TTT s product -pictures do not do it justice.  It is all so beautiful.  

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Alright so I installed the big brake kits front and rear from t3 and they fit and look beautiful!!! E-brake function works perfect! Only problem im having is that my pedal goes to the floor on the first push and then gets pressure on the second and so on. I think i still migh have air in the system, so i will rebleed the master and all four corners. When the brakes did grab they felt amazing haha. I have absolutely zero clearance issues. I took some pictures with the wheels on:

These are xxr 531's 16x9 with 0 offset

IMG_0488.jpg

IMG_0489.jpg

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Alright so I installed the big brake kits front and rear from t3 and they fit and look beautiful!!! E-brake function works perfect! Only problem im having is that my pedal goes to the floor on the first push and then gets pressure on the second and so on. I think i still migh have air in the system, so i will rebleed the master and all four corners. When the brakes did grab they felt amazing haha. I have absolutely zero clearance issues. I took some pictures with the wheels on:

These are xxr 531's 16x9 with 0 offset

 

 

 

Out of curiosity what Master Cylinder are you using?  What about the Brake Booster?

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You may have a couple issues. The original 280Z master cylinder is designed to work with drum brakes in the rear. Your tear disks will continually drag if you don't change it out. Research it on this forum. Secondly, the disc brakes have larger Pistons so use more fluid that the stock disk/drum set-up. You need to at least upgrade to the 15/16" master cylinder used on the 79-81 280ZX. It is slightly larger so will push more fluid and is designed to work with disk brakes in the rear.

Sigh - more to do in your future.

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Pedal throw feels alright, still haven't tried bleeding it again. I thought I might need a new master, I emailed gabe back and forth and he said it wouldn't be needed, but I really want do another thorough bleeding and get some drive time on it. Thanks for all the info if there is anything you guys want me to check I will be working on it tomorrow!

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Is it possible to get the bleeder on the bottom with the Wilwoods?  I notice in your pictures that the "d" is up on end (front or back), and the "w" on the other.  If he plumbed the front and rears differently and you got the calipers swapped, you'd have a bleeder position problem.  On the stock system, the calipers will swap side to side and cause that problem.

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There is 4 bleeders on each caliper. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. You are only suppose to bleed from the tops. Also I believe you are suppose to bleed from the outside in when it comes to the 2 bleeders on top. Also start with the caliper furthest from the master ( right rear). Hopefully that answers your question. Thanks

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The bleeder should be at the highest point of the internal passages of the caliper.  That's the basic principle.  Some people tilt the caliper, I imagine you could tilt the car to get the same effect.  Whatever it takes.  Bubbles rise.  Be the bubble.

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Also I believe you are suppose to bleed from the outside in when it comes to the 2 bleeders on top. Also start with the caliper furthest from the master ( right rear).

 

Since the S30 brake lines run on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel, the left rear caliper is technically further away from the master in terms of brake line length than the passenger side is. I generally start with the left rear for that reason.

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Installing my new T3 Big Brake kit front and rear on the race car this weekend.

I had the big "plate" style early 280zx calipers in the back and the new T3 setup is a lot more pad area and 6lbs less per side (12 total rear weight loss).

 

Up front I had the S12W which have plenty of stopping force and never faded with 660 fluid, ducts and DTC60 pads.  But the new T3 setup will get DTC70 pads, ducting and is about 15 pounds lighter per side!!  That's 30 pounds less unsprung weight in the nose.  And a net loss of 40 ish pounds on the car?  Might have to check my classing sheet again!! 

 

Many thanks to Gabe for dealing with my annoying questions too  :) 

Good dude.

Supposedly a decent pilot also :P

 

TJ

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I would love your input RA240z and OldAndyAndTheSea


 


I am putting together my set up, and before I install the wheel bearings would love to know if I have the caliper bracket installed correctly in these photos. 


 


I have the recess of the bracket facing out.  I have mocked it up with caliper, stub axle and rotor, but just want to be sure, because I am not sure how the hell I could get the bracket off and flipped with the stub axle installed with out pulling out wheel bearings......


 


wicked thanks in advance


 


Photos in the google link below. 


 


I will post up more photos of the install of this kit.  


 


 


https://goo.gl/photo...MkmKpiGa1tEzx76


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